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#3 (permalink) | |
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-LIFETIME MEMBER-
![]() Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: SoCal
Posts: 165
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Quote:
Practice moving the snowboard edge to edge by applying pressure to the edge of the snowboard. Tilt the board less than in the first exercise and now focus on trying to bend the snowboard to make it change directions. To do this, assume a low stance posture and then extend the legs to press the edge into the snow. This should bow the the board, increasing it`s camber at this point and decreasing turn radius. Apply these tactics to long radius turns on the flats with some momentum. First, tilt the snowboard and balance on it`s edge. Second, bend the snowboard by pressing on the edge as described above. The student`s goal is not speed or tight turns at this stage, focus on skid avoidance. |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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-LIFETIME MEMBER-
![]() Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: SoCal
Posts: 165
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Quote:
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#5 (permalink) |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 674
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I think I saw this in the SnowProfessor video site. Perhaps it was in carving. I forgot. I think the instruction is wrong though. You don't "extend your legs". You bring your knees together. Assuming your boot is hard enough I guess, you should be able to decrease the "on-tilt sidecut-radius" a little bit. I tried it and I don't think it does anything for me. Maybe it's my setup or it's more effective in hard-booting...or "soft boarding".
I know what you mean by the terms though. It should be like "roll"...as in the standard craft terminology. Last edited by rasmasyean; 12-22-2010 at 09:12 AM. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 1,247
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I was experimenting with this yesterday. My only complaint about my Buck Ferton is the shallow side cut make carving large and long. I pulled my knees in and found I got faster shorter carves.
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