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Old 03-23-2011, 05:35 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Turning by applying equal pressure from both feet?

Ok so I've heard about foot pedalling, however is it not right to turn by applying equal pressure in both feet and staying centred?

Last edited by Jakey; 03-23-2011 at 05:37 PM.
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Old 03-23-2011, 06:15 PM   #2 (permalink)
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foot pedalling? i'm not sure if i have heard that term, or know what it means, but i am by no means an instructor.

I would say that when carving it feels like to me that i am staying centered and using my ankles to control the angle of my board to control the turn.

It feels like i am using equal pressure, but i'm not totally sure if that is what happens. Snowolf is bound to chime in here, he can be of much more help =)
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Old 03-23-2011, 06:37 PM   #3 (permalink)
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What I mean by foot pedalling, say toeside turn for example is that you iniate the turn by lifting up the frontfoot heel/pressing down toes and countering this by pressing down backfoot heel lifting up backfoot toes. Although it's only meant to be a slight counter not so much that you can't turn. As you begin to turn you then start applying equal pressure in both feet. As the turn is coming to an end you apply some backfoot pressure and then start a new turn. Don't know if that makes sense or is correct.
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Old 03-24-2011, 09:32 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Snowolf View Post
Essentially this is good technique for skidded turns. You are using the torsional flex of the board to initiate and control the turn. By countering with the back foot, I assume you simply mean holding some of that uphill edge pressure until the board points down the fall line? If so, then yes, this is also a good technique. It allows the board to pivot down the hill while keeping the tail "locked" into the hill with the uphill edge. Be careful though not to overdo this as it will slow turn establishment and thus cause unwanted acceleration in the turn entry and control phase. In short, get that back foot doing what the front foot is doing fairly soon.

Now for carving, we do not use torsional flex; we use tilt and that allows our side cut to initiate, control and complete the turn. This is done by using both feet simultaneously. In carving, both feet should be moving together, doing the same movement at the same time....
Yeah that's exactly it. Although I must admit when I went on holiday in Jan I hadn't undertood it properly and was just holding that counter thing and was continually sliding and not wiping enough speed off. Was wondering why my edges werent digging in enough. Then I read after the holiday you shouldn't hold that counter thing for long only initially.

On a steep would you attempt to carve with that technique? I remember an instructor telling me you had to have the right slopes and conditions to properly carve.

Also is it possible to do a dynamic skidded turn without torsional flex?

Last edited by Jakey; 03-24-2011 at 08:45 PM.
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Old 03-28-2011, 08:56 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Yes it is possible to dynamically skid a turn without using torsional flex. It is a bit inefficient and funky, but possible. In essence, is could be done by tilting the board on edge (using both feel like in carving) and then forcefully breaking the edge hold by deliberately pushing the board to the outside of the turn. new riders who kick the tail around do this. Sadly, they think it is good riding, when in reality it is poor form...but it does work. Use of torsional flex in dynamic skidded turns is very effective and makes the entire turn easier and stronger.
I don't kick the tail around, I'd say I've done the dynamic skidded turns without flexing the board but then again when I'm riding I don't really think about my legs at all.
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Old 04-24-2011, 10:55 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I don't kick the tail around, I'd say I've done the dynamic skidded turns without flexing the board but then again when I'm riding I don't really think about my legs at all.
IMO, you should be constantly focusing on board performance and lower body movements to help you control your turns and which promotes good posture and form. I have found that at one point, your shoulders do what is necessary without you thinking. Unless you are going for a level test, you should have a quiet upper body that requires no thought at all no matter what type of turn you take. In a level test you want to think more because you dont want to fuck up.
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Old 05-25-2011, 03:24 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I might add that with a softer deck torsionally, edge to edge carving will be really hard to do without engaging into a dynamic crossunder turn. This is because you will tend to favor your nose foot to roll over to the heels with your tail foot trailing it no matter how evenly you try to distribute your body weight. With a very stiff deck, there is not enough torsional flex for this to matter, but for a softer, park/freestyle or beginning deck, it will result in a crossunder turn unless you really exaggerate driving edge to edge by using of the shoulders. Newer mid-width park decks have become torsionally stiffer over the years for better edge to edge response, but I still find myself naturally crossing under if I'm hitting particularly steep grades, especially if the conditions are hardpack. dustpack or crust on my jib deck.
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Old 05-26-2011, 12:53 PM   #8 (permalink)
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So.. (being a noob here) while I understand that you use equal pressure and lean to do the carve, you still slightly start with your lead foot and roll to the lean, correct?

Seems that without that slight turn, you wouldn't have the consistent carve line, but a gap / slide when you switch from one edge to the other...
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Old 05-27-2011, 12:10 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Interesting.. Guess I will be checking out a few more of your videos before Wednesday!

Thanks!!!
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Old 05-27-2011, 12:55 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Snowolf View Post
No, you really do make the edge change in one fluid movement using both feet at the same time. There are two ways to make this happen. Both are called an unweighting movement. In either case, you need to unweight the board in order to disengage the edge you are on before you can reengage the new edge. Most people use an up unweight for basic carving. It is a very easy, intuitive movement. Basically, you flex down, then pop up briskly. This upward movement briefly makes you board weightless and that enables you to tilt it onto the new edge. An extreme example of this is to actually pop off of the snow at the end of each turn, then land on the new edge. If done properly, there will be a gap in your line in the snow where you made the edge change.

The other way is a down unweight which is better for steeps and dynamic carving. Here, instead of popping up, you drop abruptly toward the board. You can also think of it as sucking your legs up really quickly. If you do this quickly, you can unweight the board before you drop down toward it. This is a weird felling to master, but once you get the hang of it you will see how much better this is in some situations like on very steep slopes or in the moguls.
I found when learning to down unweight, going from toe side to heel felt very natural. Going the opposite felt awkward at first. My gf who rides regular said the opposite (i ride goofy).
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