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Old 12-25-2011, 02:51 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Lonerider- I was thinking the same thing about my heel cup touching the snow. I wear a size 11.5 boot. The guy who sold me the board said I did not need a wide. So my Twin is a wide and the custom x is not. cx12 is riding a wide custom x. Do you think I made a mistake here? If so, what can I do to minimize this mistake? It's ok...I can take it... I think. It just 600 dollars down the drain

Cool it bro, i got size 12 boots and have a custom x 158 2009

center your boot on your board, and ride the board with the set back stance, try not to center it, your problem will be that your rear foot is going to be on a narrower part of the board than your front so i bet that is the problem
just ride it with the set-back, i tried it twined out but i found the board rode better at how its supposed to be set up, found the board had better pop and the slip outs for me disapeared.
Im riding a Rome board and i find that the board slides out from me when i really get into turns and lean *hard* into slashes on groomers and shit.
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Old 12-25-2011, 03:47 AM   #12 (permalink)
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My Ride Highlife is a 252 waist and a directional twin (I ride the 158).
I use a reduced footprint size 11 so its actually the size of a 10. Even so I need to get the boots/bindings properly centered to avoid toe/heel drag. This is crucial.

I will Ride centered if I can because I like to ride switch a lot, but I often ride with 1 setback (pow) which is how its designed to be ridden. It is better for freeride with the setback as its how its been designed to flex.

It can still be very twinish and 1 setback is not a big deal.

Give it a try.
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Old 12-28-2011, 08:10 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I have a CX wide 164 and usually wear a 11-12 boot. I think the problem may be a little bit board and a little bit rider. The Cx has a very unique turn initiation which I haven't encountered with any of my other boards (in 20+ seasons). When I first got the board I was over applying the edges like crazy. I think the lightning bolts and torsional stiffness make it easy to over pressure and wash out. I've found it best to finesse my way into a turn. At a certain point I can lock in and power out a carve but like I said, it requires more of a special touch.

With a standard width board and your foot size you may have compounded the problem with additional leverage. Also, going from a wide to a regular width will cause you to instinctively over apply. I notice this when I go from my wider freeride boards to the CX.

I'd ride just the CX for a couple of days and maybe see if you can find a wide version to try at some point. I wouldn't give up on it yet because I really belive it's one of the best all mtn. boards out there. It does however require a unique balance between finesse and aggressiveness.

Last edited by SJ10; 12-28-2011 at 08:13 PM.
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Old 12-28-2011, 10:31 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I think the problem may be a little bit board and a little bit rider. The Cx has a very unique turn initiation which I haven't encountered with any of my other boards (in 20+ seasons).

I'd ride just the CX for a couple of days and maybe see if you can find a wide version to try at some point. I wouldn't give up on it yet because I really belive it's one of the best all mtn. boards out there. It does however require a unique balance between finesse and aggressiveness.
This. It's a very unique board and a monster when you dial it in, but until then, don't be upset that things aren't working out. The OP needs more time on it and a real understanding of every fundamental in turn initiation and fluid dynamic motion.

I'd also like to say that you can't get away with anything sloppy or lazy on the deck. It's very unforgiving but very fun when you get after it.

Perhaps the OP is not really pushing it at the right part of the turn in order to lock in the edge...It transitions very quick and requires very good core / lower body strength to properly work it.

+1 on the mix of finesse/ aggressiveness. It will make the OP a better rider if he sticks with it, no doubt.
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Old 12-29-2011, 03:30 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Thanks for the words of wisdom. I am gonna keep at it. I really do like a challenge.
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Old 01-18-2012, 10:01 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Im having exactly the same problem with my custom X, I have a 2010/11 162 wide, I'm 6'1", size 12 boots and weigh 215.I have been riding for 15 years + and consider myself an advanced intermediate. I like to carve hard, fast and aggressively.I also have a neversummer raptor that I have never had any issues with at all. I spent 10 days over xmas at Jay(VT) on the CX, I gave this board everything I had and some, but no matter what if I really got on it it would comepletely lose traction heelside more than fifty % of the time. I gave up and went back to the raptor after xmas until last week when I took the CX back out on a perfect groomer day.......exactly the same result.....WTF ...this board is really starting to make me doubt my abilities.I only bought it because every review I read considers it the ultimate carving machine. Help me out here, I actually think I'm developing a hate for this thing!
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Old 01-18-2012, 04:38 PM   #17 (permalink)
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You are not going to be able to do high speed, short radius carved turns on solid ice, just not gonna happen.
That hasn't stopped some of us from trying. Heard that these latest storms have turned all of WA state into a huge snowdrift!
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Old 04-04-2012, 09:30 AM   #18 (permalink)
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my advice on the custom X is that the ref point isnt centered if you want to center it take a ruler and do from the end of the tip to the center of binding and do for both sides, you will see how much different it is then the ref points.

personally i have a 151 twin(mission/synchro) and a 164w custom X (cartels) the twin i fucking love the X i really dislike, i liked at first cause i was coming from a fat bob that i never waxed and sharpened which now its tuned i love more then the X too.

basically how ever i first set it up with no knowledge was really prefect but then i changed it and now the thing always feels wonky i cant go top speed riding the board switch or i will always catch an edge which blows, riding normal i never have an problem

now the twin i used to catch when riding switch but one day when i got to the bottom of the slope i put the board on the ground and it made a diving board sound and was broken in and now rides prefect at the highest speeds i can physically make my self go with no chatter riding either side of the board. i also have missions. personally i have soft burton ozone boots+ semi soft missions this makes a huge impact on my riding. personally i doubt you ever need a wide board if you ride 15 degree 15 degree. personally i dont any more all future boards i get are going to be 153/154 and normal width which is fucking sweet.

so yeah try measuring and re adjusting the width
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