To ptex or not to ptex? - Page 2 - Snowboarding Forum

Toecutter · 01-05-2012, 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GreatScott

but drink a few beers before you start.

In order to ensure you drip napalm onto your bare skin and floor? LOL!

Toecutter · 01-05-2012, 09:19 PM

Hey, the OP's avatar looks like a P-Tex job gone wrong!

ColoRADical · 01-05-2012, 09:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GreatScott

Napalm dripping on your board is therapeutic? Do you like a little rough play in the bedroom too? I've done many ptex repairs and I'm always anxious.

The job is easy... but drink a few beers before you start.

Nothing wrong with a little horseplay

and I love messing around with set ups. I clean my bearings and change bushing combos when it rains over the summer too

Toecutter · 01-05-2012, 09:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ColoRADical

I clean my bearings and change bushing combos when it rains over the summer too

Are we talking about garage activities or bedroom activities here?

ColoRADical · 01-05-2012, 09:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Toecutter

Are we talking about garage activities or bedroom activities here?

Longboard activities to be specific

WasatchMan · 01-05-2012, 10:20 PM

Didn't feel like starting a new thread for this - but while on the topic of damaged boards, I hit a tree today and was wondering if this needed immediate attention? Question may be stupid but I've never damaged my board in this way...

There is a decent sized gap on each end, like a sandwich falling apart (hard to see with all the mud and bark stuffed in there), and you can completely pull back (lift up?) the top sheet with your finger

Probably nothing to worry about eh?

Pow?POW! · 01-05-2012, 10:25 PM

I dunno man If you can completely pull back the top layer I'd be afraid I could expose my core to moisture.

Toecutter · 01-05-2012, 10:25 PM

^ I'm no expert but it seems as if delamination like that can allow water to enter between the layers, which could cause problems maybe?

GreatScott · 01-06-2012, 03:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Toecutter

In order to ensure you drip napalm onto your bare skin and floor? LOL!

I make my misses lie under the board when I do it. Different strokes for different folks, lol.

Toecutter, what is your avatar a picture of?

CheeseForSteeze · 01-06-2012, 03:55 PM

I would epoxy that up, WasatchMan. You can fix it for about $10-15. A two part epoxy from home depot or lowes, a couple of small c-clamps (you can find them for like $2-3) and a couple pieces of thin scrap wood or metal.

Let the board sit in a dry, room temperature environment (in your house, preferably). If you can dry it at a LOW temperature with a heatgun or hairdryer after letting it sit for at least 24 hours, that's even better.

Mix the two part up really well and us a popsicle stick or something similar to apply it between the topsheet and the core. Clamp it down, using the pieces of scrap wood or metal to act as pressure distribution plates. Let it cure for at least 24 hours. Also, before you let it set, if any epoxy squeezes out, wipe it up, you'll be saving yourself work later.

Come back 24-48 hours later and sand/file down all excess that squeezed out. You're done.

01-05-2012, 10:25 PM	#17 (permalink)
Pow?POW! Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Central PA/Northern VA Posts: 120	I dunno man If you can completely pull back the top layer I'd be afraid I could expose my core to moisture. __________________ Sleep.Fuck.Party (DJ music FTW)

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01-05-2012, 09:19 PM	#12 (permalink)
Toecutter Veteran Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Mt. Bachelor Posts: 1,512	Hey, the OP's avatar looks like a P-Tex job gone wrong!

01-05-2012, 10:20 PM	#16 (permalink)
WasatchMan Veteran Member Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Salt Lake City, Utah Posts: 1,023	Didn't feel like starting a new thread for this - but while on the topic of damaged boards, I hit a tree today and was wondering if this needed immediate attention? Question may be stupid but I've never damaged my board in this way... There is a decent sized gap on each end, like a sandwich falling apart (hard to see with all the mud and bark stuffed in there), and you can completely pull back (lift up?) the top sheet with your finger Probably nothing to worry about eh?

01-05-2012, 10:25 PM	#18 (permalink)
Toecutter Veteran Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Mt. Bachelor Posts: 1,512	^ I'm no expert but it seems as if delamination like that can allow water to enter between the layers, which could cause problems maybe?

01-06-2012, 03:55 PM	#20 (permalink)
CheeseForSteeze -LIFETIME MEMBER- Join Date: May 2011 Posts: 1,728	I would epoxy that up, WasatchMan. You can fix it for about $10-15. A two part epoxy from home depot or lowes, a couple of small c-clamps (you can find them for like $2-3) and a couple pieces of thin scrap wood or metal. Let the board sit in a dry, room temperature environment (in your house, preferably). If you can dry it at a LOW temperature with a heatgun or hairdryer after letting it sit for at least 24 hours, that's even better. Mix the two part up really well and us a popsicle stick or something similar to apply it between the topsheet and the core. Clamp it down, using the pieces of scrap wood or metal to act as pressure distribution plates. Let it cure for at least 24 hours. Also, before you let it set, if any epoxy squeezes out, wipe it up, you'll be saving yourself work later. Come back 24-48 hours later and sand/file down all excess that squeezed out. You're done.