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Old 01-06-2012, 04:19 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GreatScott View Post
Toecutter, what is your avatar a picture of?
I've been wondering this as well!

Is it a rare beached sea creature?

Some sort of fetus?

A rare beached sea creature fetus?

And, is that other thing a leg?

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Old 01-06-2012, 05:49 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Hide your children!

Mystery Creature Dead in Panama - Alien or ? - YouTube
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Old 01-06-2012, 05:58 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Ohhhh!

Alien or sloth, so sad they killed it
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Old 01-06-2012, 06:01 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by CheeseForSteeze View Post
I would epoxy that up, WasatchMan. You can fix it for about $10-15. A two part epoxy from home depot or lowes, a couple of small c-clamps (you can find them for like $2-3) and a couple pieces of thin scrap wood or metal.

Let the board sit in a dry, room temperature environment (in your house, preferably). If you can dry it at a LOW temperature with a heatgun or hairdryer after letting it sit for at least 24 hours, that's even better.

Mix the two part up really well and us a popsicle stick or something similar to apply it between the topsheet and the core. Clamp it down, using the pieces of scrap wood or metal to act as pressure distribution plates. Let it cure for at least 24 hours. Also, before you let it set, if any epoxy squeezes out, wipe it up, you'll be saving yourself work later.

Come back 24-48 hours later and sand/file down all excess that squeezed out. You're done.
Perfect! Thank you so much
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Old 01-06-2012, 06:44 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Perfect! Thank you so much
If you have acess to a syringe (dont ask don't tell) it works really well when applying epoxy.
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Old 01-07-2012, 01:19 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Wow guys, thanks for all the quick responses. For some reason it didn't email me like it usually does when a new post was made. Any who, I'm going to ptex the one deeper, longer gash that is close to my bindings. Like someone said, it will be a good gash to practice/learn on.

Plus, I need to do a good wax too. I hate the snow around me, I live in the midwest and it's all man-made icey garbage. I'll probably end up waxing almost every trip this year as the warm day temps and cold night temps are just melting and freezing continuously. Making for super icey conditions.

Checked out a bunch of different base repair videos on YouTube and now I feel pretty confident. Keeping the flame blue is something I probably wouldn't have done/known to do if it weren't for all the great videos online. I :heart: the interweb.
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Old 01-12-2012, 07:51 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Well, just an update.

After getting my snowboard work table built I finally got around to repairing my base and doing my first wax.

Repair went well, Had to do the deeper gouge a second time because the first time I did it I pressed too hard when initially scraping and pulled most of it back out of the groove. Also, I don't think I was letting the ptex get hot enough the first go round. Sencond pass came out perfect. I did get a little more "brown/carbon" than I would've liked but it's not even really noticable. I held the ptex low so the flame stayed blue, not sure what else I could've done.

The wax went well but I used wayyy too much. I'm guessing a newb mistake that most people make, but out of my 100g thing of wax I used about 3/8th's of it... yikes. Oh well, guess I was just loving the smell of that One Ball. LOL After scraping for a long while it came out pretty nice looking I think. Was wondering if there was anything else I could do after the scrape phase? I lightly went over the board with a green scotch brite and then with the cork pad that came with the rub on wax in the kit. Didn't really see that it helped.

So, thanks again for the encouraging words, give me some feedback on little steps people to just to polish it up after the wax. Thanks.
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Old 01-12-2012, 08:33 PM   #28 (permalink)
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If you can get a hold of a small propane torch they work great for lighting your Ptex keeps most of the black bits out of it. and keep your flame low roll the ptex while it is lit and you should be good. also a metal scraper to follow along with the ptex to hit the black specs on will keep your ptex clean and clear
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Old 01-12-2012, 10:30 PM   #29 (permalink)
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If you find the repair works itself loose and you have to re-p-tex it, use a heatgun or something to bring up the base temperature as much as possible. Enough to get it warm (like waxing iron warm) but not too much to damage it. Welding theory tells us this makes for a better, more permanent bond.
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Old 01-12-2012, 10:59 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CheeseForSteeze View Post
If you find the repair works itself loose and you have to re-p-tex it, use a heatgun or something to bring up the base temperature as much as possible. Enough to get it warm (like waxing iron warm) but not too much to damage it. Welding theory tells us this makes for a better, more permanent bond.
I was wondering about this. Seems like it would bond better if they were close in temp as the ptex cools instantly. Thanks.

Also, I lit it with an acetylene torch as it was what I had handy..., maybe a little too hot.
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