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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-22-2012, 07:57 AM
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Looks like you are definitely coming along. Like a few others have said your toeside is better then heelside (which is common). If you pause at 0:19, you can see that your butt is hanging over the heelside edge. It may sound odd, but you want to roll your knees forward (try and cover your feet with your knees). Instead, of squatting back so much, drive/lean your hips and shoulders into the hill. That way your weight stays stacked over the edge. You also won't feel the need to counter balance with your hands so much. You will notice on the heelside you tend to throw your hands in front of you.

For toeside you can still be more aggressive and roll your knees into the hill more (push your knees towards the snow). But you will also have to work on bringing the back up a little straighter. I think you may have a slight tendency to lean into the turn more with the shoulders then hips and knees.

Take my advice lightly I am no expert instructor. You look very similar to me earlier this season, so these are all things I have been working on.
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-22-2012, 11:17 AM Thread Starter
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@Snowolf: Thanks snowolf! Appreciate the detail analysis. Regarding the up and down-unweight, I actually found down-unweigthing for me and up-weighting harder so partly when practicing carving I want to work on my up-unweight (to get the rebound out of carves) which is not really good as you can see. The pivot turns seems like a great idea, will try it out next time. I found that I have really hard times on steep trees (e.g. black runs at whistler off peak chair), I tend to resort back to pendulum/falling leaf and just making the odd turn here and there. I found the space to make a turn is too tight and if I want to lean forward to make my body perpendicular with the hill, I gather too much speed. This becomes even harder when riding powder (which is why I mostly stick to wide open bowls).

Regarding the hand infront, I realized sometimes I do that. I mostly do this to counter balance so I don't topple backwards, I guess as aiidoneous mentioned I need to use more inclination during heelside turns. Another small reason I tend to do this and think that it's fine is that every time I saw a video of a pro riding (e.g. josh dirksen, terje) their backhand is always infront of them.

@aiidoeneous: Thanks! will work on that heelside inclination and toeside angulation.
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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-22-2012, 03:01 PM
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Heelside angulation

The thing that sticks out in the video is how uneven your edge angle is toeside vs. heelside.
In the video you are extended when changing edges then sitting down in your heelside. But, when you sit down through your turn it doesn't increase your edge angle or do much of anything. Also, if you try to push your hips into the turn more, you'll typically fall to the inside of your turn. Staying taller and tipping/leaning into the heelside turn with your whole body will help you generate more edge angle as others have said. But as snowolf suggested and explained perfectly, I would have you shift to down unweighting, ie compressing at edge changes(I know you said you have down unweightin, well, down, but if you are getting more spring up unweighting, then it needs work).
The trick to a really solid heelside carve in soft boots and ducked stance is to angulate such that your hips are BELOW your knees during your turn.

I think getting compressed at your transition and then extending through the turn(ie down unweighting) would improve your heelside dramatically. This way you can be fully compressed(to give you an idea, if I am really banging aggressive carves, I can feel my knees hitting my stomach/chest while changing edges and therefor they are above my hips). Being that compressed allows you to open your lower body and extend while keeping your hips low and moving to the inside of the turn which will create edge angle and even out your turns.
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-22-2012, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the tips jlm, will keep those in mind next time I ride.
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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-22-2012, 08:29 PM
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good riding skip11. i'm at my second season and i too ride like you do.with all the great tips everyone gives here,i also keep watching the CASI level riding course that is posted on this section. i need visual training and those vids along with the tips from here helps me out pretty good.the one that snowolf said about pivot turns is new to me and i would try it out for sure to help me with my mogul riding. please post more of your progress and i'll try too get mine.so i can get some feedback and get better.
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post #16 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-24-2012, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
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Bump for Snowolf.
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post #17 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-24-2012, 03:24 PM
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I did some good drills last night with a level 3 instructor during session. To help improve the heelside carving, we first did the following:

1) Point down the hill to get some speed
2) come to a complete stop on heelside
3) Hop back up the hill
4) Repeat

The key here is to make sure you are/have

- Balanced
- Locked ankles
- Hop comes from knees, hips and above

It really helps show some of the heelside weakness. We did this on a steeper part of a blue run. You can also do this for toeside, but keep in mind toeside will be easier.

Second drill was for both edges:

1) Start carving down the hill
2) As you traverse the hill, hop

If you arn't landing back in your edge nicely something is off, stance, not enough edge, looking down at your board.

Third drill was the same as above, except instead of hoping while traversing. You hop during the edge change. So you hop from heel edge to toe edge, traverse, hop toe to heel, repeat.
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post #18 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-24-2012, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
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@aiido: So I basically hop (with both feet like popping?) for and edge change and after changing edge it should lock right in? Seems an interesting drill, will try it out.
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post #19 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-24-2012, 04:01 PM
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The pop is even weight both feet. But not like a normal, non-strapped in jump. You don't want to leep off your toes. The idea is to keep the ankles locked in that hard carve position, and use the rest of you body to pop.

I recommend doing them in order. It is one thing to pop up, and land. It is another thing to pop and land on edge. For example, in the first drill my first two hops I made the mistake of looking at my board. This means my weight is past the edge, and when I landed I slid a little.

The level 3 instructors are awesome at the last drill, very smooth. They land instantly into a nice edge and keep carving away.

For me, the toesides I could land and already have a nice edge to ride away with. The heelside I still slide a slight bit before I get my edge. My issue here is with my ankles, I keep popping using my ankle and toes. This causes my edge angle to be less. Less edge, less chance of landing a good carve. However, after doing the drill my normal heelsides were so much better, much easier to lock my ankles so I could get a lot more edge.
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post #20 of 26 (permalink) Old 02-24-2012, 04:39 PM
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I can't wait to try this. Thanks aiidoneus!

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If you want to be a chick, a dude, a tent, or a velociraptor be my guest, but if you choose the last one you bet your ass I will have a spaz-12 to your face.
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