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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-29-2012, 02:39 PM Thread Starter
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Brand New Board- Detune The Tips?

Just ordered a new board, Capita BSOD, and was wondering if I should de-tune the nose/tail. If so, how much rounding? What type of file, or just use a stone? How far back do I go?

I like to carve so how far back I go scares me.

No park/rails etc...
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-29-2012, 04:46 PM
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why not ride it FIRST then decide if you need to detune it?? if you dont do park/rails and love to carve, you should just keep it the way it is.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-29-2012, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks both.. great advice to lay on table and see where the edge contact starts... !! Duh! lol...

Think I'll just wax it up and go.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-29-2012, 06:50 PM
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I wouldn't worry about detuning the contact points. The BSOD is rev cam at the tips. Just wax and ride.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-29-2012, 09:39 PM
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I'd give it my own wax job (factory jobs stink) and get on it. Then you can evaluate if the nose or tail feels hooky. How to tell? If you're carving and you notice that when you set the board high on edge, it tends to crank an insanely tight turn rather unexpectedly, or if you find the nose is wanting to fold when the board is heavily pressured, the nose is hooky. If you find the board doesn't want to cleanly release from a carve and wants to hold on and steer you into the trees, then the tail is hooky. If you find you have to detune at all, just barely knock the first few cm's of the razor sharp edge off with a few passes of a stone. DON'T round it! The edge should still look very much square with no discernable rounding. You just want to take the "bity-ness" out of it, and only if you NEED to.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-29-2012, 10:14 PM Thread Starter
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I'd give it my own wax job (factory jobs stink) and get on it. Then you can evaluate if the nose or tail feels hooky. How to tell? If you're carving and you notice that when you set the board high on edge, it tends to crank an insanely tight turn rather unexpectedly, or if you find the nose is wanting to fold when the board is heavily pressured, the nose is hooky. If you find the board doesn't want to cleanly release from a carve and wants to hold on and steer you into the trees, then the tail is hooky. If you find you have to detune at all, just barely knock the first few cm's of the razor sharp edge off with a few passes of a stone. DON'T round it! The edge should still look very much square with no discernable rounding. You just want to take the "bity-ness" out of it, and only if you NEED to.
Awesome info. Wax job for sure. A side from that your advice good and well noted. Most likely why SW rides out of the box and makes the adjustments if needed.

I will in box, wax , and head to meadows. Hint hint in case SW wants to guide a tour down HC.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-01-2012, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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Either I got a used board of the board came with tips that are de-tuned.

Sno you have PM.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-01-2012, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by pdxrealtor View Post
Either I got a used board of the board came with tips that are de-tuned.

Sno you have PM.
i think capita does that. my charlie slasher came with the tip and tail detuned
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-01-2012, 10:36 PM
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I like mjne rounded off on the nose/tail but you don't have to do this. The only board I've ever had factory detuned was the Draft.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-01-2012, 11:49 PM
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if you do decide to detune. find the widest point on tip or tail of board and go an inch back from that rounding it off. better to use a stone or just be light with the file
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