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Old 09-04-2012, 08:25 AM   #41 (permalink)
Join Date: Mar 2011
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so i went up to mt hotham on the weekend and practiced some turns. the weather was perfect as well as the snow! one of the best days i have

i know i still hang my right arm out and seems to be still countering my stance >< i promise i'll work on it! but i think there's less flailing of the arms now!

Last edited by kino; 09-04-2012 at 08:55 AM.
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Old 09-04-2012, 12:27 PM   #42 (permalink)
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you look much more relaxed...good,
your upper body is quieter...good,
you are not opening up shoulders...good
you are using your lower body more....good

bend your knees a bit more,...really drive your front knee going toeside and sit more for heelside
use your front knee and foot to steer (shift your hips toward the nose abit more when starting the turn and then drive the front knee for toeside or squat more for heelside...but shift your hips toward the nose)....your are using your back leg to rudder turns
let your rear leg/knee follow your front leg/ need to push your back foot around.
practice trying to make tighter/more dynamic turns...
perhaps by taking a couple of runs down a black or double black and then go back to the blue/green and be more aggressive in your turning...not necessarily in speed but really making the board cut or rail turns.

UR doing great

Last edited by wrathfuldeity; 09-04-2012 at 12:33 PM.
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Old 09-04-2012, 02:28 PM   #43 (permalink)
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The more I see the more I believe that the backfoot ruddering (which is still there, while many other things have improved) is due to a combination of a lack of dynamic riding (flexing ankles, knees, and hips) and an oversized/too wide board. As a result, you are lacking both board twist and tilt (and also edge pressure). Consequently, you never get the edge of the board working/engaged in the turn and you have to force the board around through pivoting.
Solution: Really work the board with your lower body and control the twist and tilt - ride the board rather than letting the board carry you downhill. I suspect trying a softer (and maybe narrower board) might really help in this.

Last edited by hktrdr; 09-04-2012 at 02:32 PM.
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Old 09-05-2012, 09:38 PM   #44 (permalink)
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thank you for the advice, I can really count on you guys to give prompt and awesome feedback being more dynamic is my next step and it will probably fix a lot of things that i'm still struggling with like the backfoot ruddering and shifting my weight more towards the nose.

As with the board, I do feel like the board is a little to stiff for me to actually twist or i just need to work on my leg strength ><
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Old 09-05-2012, 11:26 PM   #45 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by beall View Post
How do you maintaining and slow down on cat trails? sometime it is too narrow to do any wide turns for beginners. I tend to feather down in narrow runs.
To maintain a slow speed on the narrow trails you have to make sharp quick cuts. The sharper angle they are, the slower you will go. Carve with a little bit less of an angle, and you will go faster. Your skidded turns look fine, I'd just suggest you lean into your turns a little more and use your edge to carve the trails. You need a little more speed to do this, but once you get it down you will have a lot more control.
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Old 09-05-2012, 11:58 PM   #46 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Snowolf View Post
As you ride, imaging your body going straight down the hill while your board is making shallow s turns underneath you. At the outside of every turn, your board is at it's farthest point from you and your legs will be fully extended. As the board crosses underneath you, it will be at it's closest and will require you to flex your legs. This is dynamic riding known as cross under turns because now the board is starting to turn more independent of your entire body. A little bit of swivel in the waist will take place as well.

That is the goal for dynamic cross under turns. To start getting you there, do some very basic and simple exercises while you are riding. First pick a spot where you have a little more room to make completed turns. That is allowing the board to be completely across the fall line before making your next turn. As you make these linked turns, start playing with this flexing and extending. Before you initiate each turn, flex down to your 8 position and enter the turn. Ad you progress through each turn, gradually extend to your 2 position and pay attention to your timing. You want to reach maximum extension as the board completes each turn so speed up or slow down the movement to coincide with your turn. Drop back down to make the next turn and repeat the process.

An extension through the control phase of a turn increases edge pressure and helps make for a more powerful turn with less chance of loosing your edge hold. In really steep terrain, dynamic ridiculous is a must to maintain edge hold. On mellow terrain, it is just plain more fun and looks so much better. As you work with this, do these movements faster and tighter and you will really behind to feel this dynamic quality to your riding.
Hey Snowolf - is this part here essentially an introduction to what you call "down un-weighting"? I've been looking for some technical specifics of how to properly perform it, and this looks like a good exercise.
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Old 09-06-2012, 12:37 AM   #47 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Snowolf View Post
Yes and no.

It is a great prerequisite for getting used to allowing the board to ride more independently underneath of you but I really did not get into unweighting with this person yet as it is a little ways past their current progression.

To answer your question more specifically, the unweighting is something a rider does deliberately to release their edge so they can then switch onto their new edge to initiate the next turn.

What I am having this rider do with the flexion and extension here is actually just getting them used to the timing of doing it. In reality for using a true down unweight, the rider hold off on that last final little bit of flexion and then does it abruptly at the exact moment they make the edge change.

The opposite of this and one most people very instinctively do is an up unweight where they will actually pop up and release their edge almost like a leaper turn. This works well on mellow terrain but is not something a rider wants to do on really steep pitches. The down unweight allows the rider to release their edge without popping themselves up and away from the mountain side and then trying desperately to get their new edge engaged again. The down unweight is a mush softer approach, like you would use if walking on glass.

I have a new video coming out that goes into this in depth. I just need to edit and post it....
Bolded part made my day

Your existing videos helped a tonne throughout my last season. I've got a decent handle on up unweights, and am looking forward to trying out some more advanced stuff this year (especially if it will help out on steeper pitches).
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