redlude97

While all this is true, detuning the tip and tail up to the contact points does help with that twitchy feeling on a lot of boards when flatbasing or just slightly on edge. This was especially true back in the camber days. I detuned the tip and tail on my NS and it does feel smoother when bombing, while leaving the base and side bevels stock past the contact points.

hktrdr

wrath is correct, that was just terrible advice for freeriding/all-mountain riding.

rasmasyean

Everyone has their opinions on edge beveling, but here's some world cup recomendations.

Edge bevel tips for ski and snowboard

The only time you want a 0 degree base is during Slalom. AND in that situation, you want a severe side bevel to make your edge like 87 degrees instead of 90. This way it bites MORE during hard carves because you're pretty much always in it. Of course this wears out your edge more because it's "sharper", but you don't care because you're in it for the short race.

hktrdr

Blahblahblah, nothing of that contradicts our arguments (or supports your original post). In the table you linked none of the categories suggest more than 2 degrees of base bevel - in fact with the exception of 'spinners' and beginners they are all 1 percent or less.

redlude97

For sure and I knew that's what you meant since I got that advice from you BITD. Just wanted to explicitly state it since the discussion was ambiguous to this point.

rasmasyean

Regarding that, this is also another reason to bevel the base edge during racing. Because it will "lift" the base off the snow more giving you less friction during carves.

The reason why "slalom" tolerates near 0 base bevels, is because you are so high on edge that it doesn't matter, so turn initiation is the more important performance feature. But if you're in another less turny race, it is recommended to have higher base bevel. Not just for parks.

rasmasyean

You're the one that says being on edge is faster than flat base. So naturally, if you have a base bevel, the same minor edging will result in MORE tilt, resulting in less "base" touching the snow! Obviously!

onthefence

Why does this guy keep posting if he knows ppl will jump all over his flawed advice in a heartbeat? Good troll IMO...

rasmasyean

If you have a 0 degree base bevel, an edge angulation of 1 degree is achieved by a 1 degree tilt.

If you have a 1 degree base bevel, an edge angulation of 1 degree is achieved by a 2 degree tilt.

If you have a 2 degree base bevel, an edge angulation of 1 degree is achieved by a 3 degree tilt.


Last time I checked, snow isn't a granite surface where I ride so the track made by a 3 degree tilt is thinner than a 2 degree tilt is thinner than a 1 degree tilt. Therfore...base beveling LIFTS more board off the snow! THUS, as you have observed yourself that being "slightly on edge" is faster than "flat basing", the more base you have touching the snow, the more suction, friction, whatever....slowing you down ever so slightly! Is that really that hard to understand?

You can say whatever you want about edge beveling, but the recomendations are for a reason. And is not "just for beginners". I was an expert rider when I started beveling and I put a 3/3 bevel on my Lib Tech Dark Series ADVANCED RIDING board. And it helped me "flat-base", spin easier, land without catching, etc. And I had FUN with it without worrying about catching an edge as much. Now did it reduce performance when carving down double black ice trails? Maybe...but I moved past that and focused on fooling arround on easier trails instead! I mean, I thought we were talking about teaching BEGINNERS anyways, so why you just want to argue by bringing up advance free-riding topics?

tylerkat89

this guy is an freakin troll intentional or not, Troll.