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Old 01-21-2013, 07:10 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowolf View Post
Edge bevel angles. 0/0 means zeroe degree base bevel and zero degree side bevel. This makes a 90 degree edge.

A 1/1 bevel means that on the base, the metal edge has a 1 degree upward bevel so that it is not come rely flush with the snow. When you put a bevel on the base edge, you still usually want a 90 degree edge so you typically match the base bevel on your side edge so if the base is 1 degree, you match it with a 1 degree side edge bevel.

Park boards often come from the factory with a 2 or 2 1/2 degree bevel to make them less prone to edge catches on features. Even with a park bevel, you really want to maintain a 90 degree edge so the side bevel is also 2 or 2 1/2 respectively.

Sometimes the side edge bevel is expressed in terms as it relates to the boards base so it will be 90, 89 or 88 degrees.

Some beginner boards have a 3/3 bevel to make them even more catch free. They are great for what they are designed for and for park, but suck for aggressive riding on firm snow.
While all this is true, detuning the tip and tail up to the contact points does help with that twitchy feeling on a lot of boards when flatbasing or just slightly on edge. This was especially true back in the camber days. I detuned the tip and tail on my NS and it does feel smoother when bombing, while leaving the base and side bevels stock past the contact points.
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Old 01-21-2013, 09:21 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by wrathfuldeity View Post
Do not bevel the edge as noted below....you want a good edge for blasting...guaranteed going 50 mph you want edges and if beveled you are going to be squirrly, all over the place and be overcompensating your movements to get an edge, if you even get one with those beveled edges. You want the 90 degree edges to cut and bite....otherwise you will be washing out/wiping out. IMPROVE your skills.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rasmasyean View Post
To a certian extent, I think the more conditioned you are to riding and flatbasing while riding, any "squirelling" from flat basing will be automatically compensated by muscle memory and you will still be stable. It's just balance that comes with practice. But front weighting helps a lot.

The other thing that helps requires a modification of your board. You put a base bevel on the edge like 2-3 degrees. Looking from the front, it would look like \_________________/ ....but only 2-3 degreees, not like 60. You should also detune (round) the tip and tail sections which helps in pretty much all riding situations. Look it up on Youtube.

This mod will help reduce squirelling and edge catching at the expense of requiring more lean to turn and have a longer turn transition....which only matters if you're reacing anyway. Ppl also do this as a performance tune for rails, such that it will not catch on nicks in the rail and domino you. It's better than "rounding" as a crude method (aka detuning) so it's no longer sharp anymore. The latter will reduce riding performance on normal trails.

You can also do a side bevel to maintain the 90 degree L-shape of the edge.
wrath is correct, that was just terrible advice for freeriding/all-mountain riding.

Last edited by hktrdr; 01-21-2013 at 09:23 PM.
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Old 01-22-2013, 12:30 AM   #33 (permalink)
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Everyone has their opinions on edge beveling, but here's some world cup recomendations.

Edge bevel tips for ski and snowboard

The only time you want a 0 degree base is during Slalom. AND in that situation, you want a severe side bevel to make your edge like 87 degrees instead of 90. This way it bites MORE during hard carves because you're pretty much always in it. Of course this wears out your edge more because it's "sharper", but you don't care because you're in it for the short race.
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Old 01-22-2013, 01:25 AM   #34 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rasmasyean View Post
Everyone has their opinions on edge beveling, but here's some world cup recomendations.

Edge bevel tips for ski and snowboard

The only time you want a 0 degree base is during Slalom. AND in that situation, you want a severe side bevel to make your edge like 87 degrees instead of 90. This way it bites MORE during hard carves because you're pretty much always in it. Of course this wears out your edge more because it's "sharper", but you don't care because you're in it for the short race.
Blahblahblah, nothing of that contradicts our arguments (or supports your original post). In the table you linked none of the categories suggest more than 2 degrees of base bevel - in fact with the exception of 'spinners' and beginners they are all 1 percent or less.
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Old 01-22-2013, 03:46 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Snowolf View Post
You are quite correct. I was only speaking about the effective edge between the contact points....
For sure and I knew that's what you meant since I got that advice from you BITD. Just wanted to explicitly state it since the discussion was ambiguous to this point.
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Old 01-22-2013, 10:07 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Snowolf View Post
This is not exactly true. You are only "washing speed off" if you are skidding. Being on edge does not equate to skidding and in many snow conditions, carving on edge is actually faster than riding with the base flat......
Regarding that, this is also another reason to bevel the base edge during racing. Because it will "lift" the base off the snow more giving you less friction during carves.

The reason why "slalom" tolerates near 0 base bevels, is because you are so high on edge that it doesn't matter, so turn initiation is the more important performance feature. But if you're in another less turny race, it is recommended to have higher base bevel. Not just for parks.
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Old 01-22-2013, 11:44 PM   #37 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Snowolf View Post


And how exactly does the edge, beveled or otherwise, actually "lift the base off the snow"? In a carve, the rider "lifts" the base by tilting the board. Please just stop trying to give "advice"; its really not your forte....
You're the one that says being on edge is faster than flat base. So naturally, if you have a base bevel, the same minor edging will result in MORE tilt, resulting in less "base" touching the snow! Obviously!
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Old 01-23-2013, 12:28 AM   #38 (permalink)
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Why does this guy keep posting if he knows ppl will jump all over his flawed advice in a heartbeat? Good troll IMO...
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Old 01-24-2013, 11:35 PM   #39 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Snowolf View Post
It's not the edge bevel that determines or limits the angle of board tilt, it's the rider's use of angulation in the case of dynamic carving and inclination in the case of basic carving. A degree or two of bevel on 5MM wide metal strip on the edge of the board has absolutely no power to "lift the base off the snow" or prevent the rider from tilting the board.



Stop digging...
If you have a 0 degree base bevel, an edge angulation of 1 degree is achieved by a 1 degree tilt.

If you have a 1 degree base bevel, an edge angulation of 1 degree is achieved by a 2 degree tilt.

If you have a 2 degree base bevel, an edge angulation of 1 degree is achieved by a 3 degree tilt.


Last time I checked, snow isn't a granite surface where I ride so the track made by a 3 degree tilt is thinner than a 2 degree tilt is thinner than a 1 degree tilt. Therfore...base beveling LIFTS more board off the snow! THUS, as you have observed yourself that being "slightly on edge" is faster than "flat basing", the more base you have touching the snow, the more suction, friction, whatever....slowing you down ever so slightly! Is that really that hard to understand?

You can say whatever you want about edge beveling, but the recomendations are for a reason. And is not "just for beginners". I was an expert rider when I started beveling and I put a 3/3 bevel on my Lib Tech Dark Series ADVANCED RIDING board. And it helped me "flat-base", spin easier, land without catching, etc. And I had FUN with it without worrying about catching an edge as much. Now did it reduce performance when carving down double black ice trails? Maybe...but I moved past that and focused on fooling arround on easier trails instead! I mean, I thought we were talking about teaching BEGINNERS anyways, so why you just want to argue by bringing up advance free-riding topics?
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:25 AM   #40 (permalink)
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this guy is an freakin troll intentional or not, Troll.
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