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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-28-2013, 03:07 PM Thread Starter
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Wanting to have sharper turns on new board

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Last edited by keel_bright; 02-23-2013 at 12:58 AM.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-28-2013, 04:39 PM
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It seems like your new rockered board does not track the slope as well as your old camber board when carving. What you need to do is have more speed and lean more to make a tighter carve with your new board. You need more weight on the edge so the full edge engages the slow and that will help you make sharper turns. If you do not have enough weight on the edge, then the board will slip out or you will rudder.

To have more weight on the edge, you can lean more. But you also have to have more speed. One suggestion I have for all riders is to be more aggressive and active with your legs. Go fast but be ready to hold the g-force as you make a sick carve (or do a full stop if you're out of control). Also if you are on steep hill that is bumpy, it's acceptable to not be able to carve elegantly. You need to have loose legs when absorbing bumps, but when it's well groomed you need to be ready to hold down the power with your legs.

I'm not really good with terminology and I don't think people can learn a sport from a book anyways. What I suggest you do immediately is committing to the speed. You will be able to do this after you become confident throwing a big aggressive full stop at will.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-28-2013, 11:58 PM
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Originally Posted by cb1021 View Post
It seems like your new rockered board does not track the slope as well as your old camber board when carving. What you need to do is have more speed and lean more to make a tighter carve with your new board. You need more weight on the edge so the full edge engages the slow and that will help you make sharper turns. If you do not have enough weight on the edge, then the board will slip out or you will rudder.

To have more weight on the edge, you can lean more. But you also have to have more speed. One suggestion I have for all riders is to be more aggressive and active with your legs. Go fast but be ready to hold the g-force as you make a sick carve (or do a full stop if you're out of control). Also if you are on steep hill that is bumpy, it's acceptable to not be able to carve elegantly. You need to have loose legs when absorbing bumps, but when it's well groomed you need to be ready to hold down the power with your legs.

I'm not really good with terminology and I don't think people can learn a sport from a book anyways. What I suggest you do immediately is committing to the speed. You will be able to do this after you become confident throwing a big aggressive full stop at will.
Half correct, half wrong. As wolfie said, more edge angle/tilt is the answer for the OP's problem. But 'leaning' is a really poor way of achieving this - rather board tilt should come from flexing the joints of the lower body (ankles, knees, hips) in order to say stacked over the edge (instead of leaning over it).
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-29-2013, 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Snowolf View Post
Not unusual when going to a stiffer deck. I am not super familiar with the Ride Machete but I think it is fairly stiff and has a mellow sidecut. The sidecut is going to be a huge factor here. If you were on shorter boards with deeper sidecuts, this board will feel like it wants to just rail. Nature of the beast really and moving your bindings will not have much effect.

Riding it more aggressively will be the only way to get more out of it. Get really dynamic and twist the hell out of it when doing dynamic skidded turns. When carving, you are about 90% dependent upon the sidecut and it is going to turn at the rate it wants. Having said that, the rider can tighten their carves by increasing the edge angle they ride on and with speed, you decamber the board or in the case of our rockers, you bend it more. This effectively deepened the sidecut in the turn and will tighten it up. The only way to get this decambering is by speed and edge angle and this will require you to use very dynamic carving techniques to maintain edge hold in such a hight performance turn.

Now, my personal opinion when it comes to issue like this is that while there are near quiver killer killer boards out there, having a couple of task specific boards is the best option. I for example pick my 156 Billy Goat for tree riding in powder. If it is day to carve hard packed groomers, it`s going to be the 161 Summit. You are just noticing that all boards have their limitations.
You might change your mind when you try the Raptor... BTW, what size did you get? Also check my follow up review comments.

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