Beeb

So I learned to ride on a skate banana and recently grabbed a Never Summer Proto for a trip to the alps. I found that the tail of my NS Proto would sometimes 'Jam' and I'd have to flatten out and try to turn again. Usually when tired at slow speeds so I'm guessing this is a technique issue, rather than not detuning the tail or anything. I don't mean a downhill edge catch, it was like the back of the board said 'no, you can't turn now' and dug in. I'd not fall down, but just completely fail to turn.

Having that thought of the tail jamming is freaking scary on narrow paths with big drop offs down one side (the path to Creux in Courchevel was sketchy!). Being freaked out probably screwed my technique up even more!

So before I get out riding on the proto next, what should I be looking out for in my technique? My mate reckons straight front leg could have caused it when tired or just being lazy and you could get away with that sort of thing easier on a surfy skate banana. Anything else it could be? bend zee knees/don't lean back etc etc?

Extremo

Coming from camber, I found the Proto rides the exact opposite of what you're describing. Maybe it's because it's not as loose as your skate banana, which I found to ride like a $10 whore.

kctahoe

I've ridden the NS heritage and evo, and never found them "catchy". I'm sure someone with more experience with proper technique will chime in, but I'm guessing that's what it is, and btw I'm loving the evo so far.

behi

I have something like a 'dead spot' at neutral stance, where I have very little strength and have problems twisting the board. That makes foot steering on flat stuff when going slow really tough when I use a stiff binding with a stiff board (with a mid-flex binding I can get beyond that 'dead spot').

In that situation, I use little hop turns - works really well.

MeanJoe

Keep in mind that with the blunt tips, the Proto has a longer effective edge than the actual board length would imply. I found the first day or two out on my Proto that the tail edges (beyond my back binding) would stay engaged slightly longer than I was used to with my previous board.

It didn't take but a day or two of riding to adjust to it and compensate. I have no idea "how" I did, it is just stopped being an issue as I'm sure I made subtle unconscious adjustments.

MeanJoe

snowklinger

I found the Proto to be much more "catchy" than my Evo. The Proto doesn't like to be ridden flat or lazy, keep it on edge, at least with a little pressure.

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is it late october yet?

redlude97

definitely need to shift weight forward/center when initiating turns with RC/C2. Detuning does help with this though. Its a combination of the rocker profile and 0/0 base bevel. Consider getting it changed to 1/89 or 2/88 depending on your riding style.

Beeb

Sounds like that's it, just got to get my weight in the right place and don't lock out my front knee when I'm getting tired.

On the whole though, the Proto rocked my world once I got some speed up. Felt stable (which compared to a nana isn't hard), did fine in deep powder and still was good for playing around on Just got to get in better shape now, altitude and adrenaline really take it out of you!

Edit:
So it's worth me de-tuning the back just past the effective edge?

snowklinger

I detune the fuck out of my tips to at least an inch(if not 2) past the contact points.

__________________
is it late october yet?

redlude97

Detune the front and the back. Similar behavior happens on the front especially in less than perfect snow. I detune to the contact points. Go to there first and then decide if it needs more.