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    1. · Registered
      Burton Custom '21, Name Dropper '21, Nidecker Supermatic, Burton Genesis, Flow NX2, Adidas Acerra
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      263 Posts
      Oh wow. I always heard the advice NOT to use power tools for screwing in your bindings as that is how you damage things! Seen a lot of stripped inserts or dimped boards and ruined snowboards bc of that. Praying for the safety of your snowboard and bindings. If bindings are loose despite good hand tightening... I think may be something else going on.

      Strongly hand tightened is more than sufficient to keep bindings tight for multiple weeks of hard riding. Normal to have some loosening if you ride a lot, just retighten. If getting loose quickly add some blue locite or nail polish or plumbers tape to the screws. Most screws come from factory with some blue locite.

      The Burton EST tool that can be set at a right angle (EST® Tool | Burton.com Winter 2023) is extremely helpful for tightening that last bit securely.
       
    1. · Registered
      Burton Custom '21, Name Dropper '21, Nidecker Supermatic, Burton Genesis, Flow NX2, Adidas Acerra
      Joined
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      263 Posts
      For me, I usually just start with reference stance and ducked +12/-12. I personally don't make much adjustments to my stance or angles when riding different boards, but I don't ride super directional / powder boards since there is never any powder where I am. I also love to ride some switch, and actively practicing to improve in that area. You don't need symmetrical angles for switch, but duck stance is good for switch riding.

      tbh, I think reference stance is usually fine (but your board may to a bit short for you so the reference may be a bit narrow). You are usually just looking for slightly wider than shoulder width stance. For someone who is 5ft 7in, I would guess probably 20 inch width stance as a starting point. Another common way to get a starting point stance width measurement is measuring the the length from your kneecap to heel. Make sure the stance is centered off the reference stance to start with. There is no absolutely correct stance width, it's variable on personal preference, but I would try to stick closer to about slightly wider than shoulder width as a starting point rather than something really extreme. I don't think there is any need to fiddle around with stance width that much, as long as you feel comfortable and stable and balanced on your width, it's fine.

      While it seems like there are infinite set-ups for angles, I think it is really just picking between a comfortable duck stance vs more positive stance to start. I wouldn't really make any adjustments until after a few days of riding, and then only a very small angle adjustment at a time to really get a sense of the differences.

      For angles, I personally ride duck stance, and I think starting out somewhere in the 12-18 degree range duck stanced is a good starting stance (example +15 -15 is a common starting point). Just stand in your snowboarding stance and see how your feet are angled. You can decrease the back foot angle slightly if you like (since you don't ride any switch), but I think you should definitely try to learn to ride switch!! It will help your overall technique with regular riding as well a ton, and I found while riding switch you really focus on technique and make a lot of improvements with your riding.

      A lot of people ride with both positive angles & only in one direction, but I think that is a bit of a different riding style and it limits your progression if you don't do any switch at all. I think it is helpful to ride some type of duck stance for a little bit and get comfortable with switch riding on greens at least before switching over to full positive one directional riding. Full positive angles you can leverage your back knee a lot more inward/outward for your turns, but when ducked you are usually relying more on your front knee and pedaling with your feet for torsional twist and I think it is really helpful to develop the habit of using your ankles and torsional flex of the board for fast turning. I think riding a bit of duck stance does help with technique prior to switching over to full positive angles. For example, I recently saw someone riding a narrow board with a narrow dual positive stance with really straight legs, and I think his technique would have benefited from riding a bit more duck stance and switch. But end of the day, mostly personal preference and what you want out of your snowboarding experience.

      Finally, I think it is best to stick to one set-up to practice with rather than constantly adjusting stances/angles too much. If you are switching set-ups too frequently, it is hard to improve as a bunch of other variables are changing. While stance angles / width can impact your riding, as long as you are not in a weird set-up, you can learn and progress on a wide range on set-ups, a lot of it is more personal preference. I wouldn't worry about it too much after you found something comfortable. If you switch set-ups, ride a few days on the new set-up because it takes your body some time to adjust. Usually, it is more fundamental technique issues rather than stance width/angles that are hampering riding and progression.

      Getting the Burton EST tool (EST® Tool | Burton.com Winter 2023) or a similar pocketable screwdriver is helpful if you are playing around a lot with adjustments while on the hill. I always carry one in case my bindings need adjustments.

      Hope this helps and good luck finding your set-up!

      edit: also, another important factor that wasn't mentioned is forward lean! I personally think a good amount of forward lean is very helpful in keeping your knees bent and shins forward in proper snowboarding posture (also really helps with carving keeping hips forward on toeside turns and getting more leverage onto the heels for heelside turns). Extra forward lean usually helps most people's riding (only exception is if doing a lot of park stuff, may prefer to have less forward lean).

      edit2: another thing I thought of. if you are on an unfamiliar board that is a bit short for you, you may be compensating or riding slightly differently than normal without noticing. it may be helpful to do one quick group lesson to see if an instructor can spot something that can help or can ask someone to film you, and post on these forums.
       
    1. · Registered
      Burton Custom '21, Name Dropper '21, Nidecker Supermatic, Burton Genesis, Flow NX2, Adidas Acerra
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      263 Posts
      Top notch :) thanks again for this money4me247.

      For the wax to maintain the board, do you have any kit recommendation?

      And also: as a beginner, should I mount the bindings on my own or leave a professional doing so?
      If wanting to save money, there are tons of great synthetic polyester baselayers that are cheaper than merino wool and also wick away sweat will to prevent that cold/clammy feeling while snowboarding. The downside of synthetics is that they retain more odor if you are on longer trips without a washing machine (usually after 2-3 days), but they are more durable and easier to wash like @Doraibu said. Perfectly good alternative to merino wool depending on what you need. I have a 6 year old Hot Chili synthetic baselayer that still works great. Definitely very durable.

      For waxing, you really just need a iron, plastic scrapper, and wax. Kits usually have more than you need, but if you want to get more into other snowboard maintenance, it can be helpful. Demon and RaceWax both have a wide variety of good kits at different price points depending on what you are looking for. For a snowboard iron, nicer ones have digital display or digital temperature control or a larger base to retain more heat - but really any iron will work (some people even use clothing iron - but can't iron clothes with it after it gets wax on it). For plastic scrapper, a larger one is better since you can scrape off more wax with each pass. For wax, I just buy a large block of all temperature wax because I go snowboarding very often (there are tons of wax companies: Demon and Purl have well-priced 1lb blocks). For more performance wax, Hertel is a very popular and frequently recommended brand. There are also temperature-specific waxes that perform better at their listed temperatures. There are tons of wax brands and options but I would avoid rub-on (without iron) wax as it does not last very long. There are fancier things like brushing your board (brass brush before to clean the base and some people use 3 brush pass afterwards with brass brush, nylon brush, and horsehair brush) but usually only important if racing. Note there are many people that don't bother waxing or just take to the shop to wax.

      For bindings, I would definitely recommend that you learn how to put on your own bindings (and how to change stance angles and change stance width). It is extremely easy once you learn, just need a screwdriver, and your bindings will come with a manual.

      Bindings will have a separate piece that is a circular base plate that you rotate for your stance angles and screw into the inserts on the snowboard at your desired stance width. Stance width is usually slightly more than shoulder width apart - usually the properly sized snowboard's reference stance markers are very close. Make sure you tighten the screws very well so your bindings don't loosen while ridding. If tightened by hand as hard as you can usually stays in place very well, but should check before every trip that your bindings aren't loosening. If it happens on the mountain, all resorts have areas with screwdrivers for tune-ups and many snowboarders carry pocket screwdrivers and the on-mountain shops/rental stores can help as well.

      I also carry the Burton EST tool so I can tighten my bindings or adjust angles/stance if needed. Being able to set the tool in a right angle really helps being able to crank down your screws.

      Also, you want the midline of your foot/boot at the mid-line of the snowboard (ideally minimum overhang at the toe/heels, if any overhang should be symmetrical amounts). If your snowboard boots are size 11 or larger, often will need a wide snowboard depending on your stance angles to prevent overhang.

      You can post of picture after your bindings are attached on your board on the forums if you have any concerns and people will help you out.
       
    2. · Registered
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      20 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #49 ·
      Also adding to the list the following items:

      Board/bindings fix:

      Wax

      Wall mount:
       
    3. · Registered
      Burton Custom '21, Name Dropper '21, Nidecker Supermatic, Burton Genesis, Flow NX2, Adidas Acerra
      Joined
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      263 Posts
      Additional question:

      Boots: Nidecker - Rift (to be tried in store) Rift
      Bindings: Rossignol Battle Men's Rossignol Battle B&W snowboard binding (M/L)
      Board: Nitro Cinema (after recommendation from Nitro based on my level and needs) Cinema | Nitro Snowboards
      Size advised: 155 - I am 175cm

      Nitro recommended to go for some Rambler to have the full kit with the board - they said thought that this is compatible with the Rossignol Rambler | Nitro Snowboards

      It is a seller "upsell" or it would better to go for the same board/bindings brand?
      You don't need to stay with the same brand for boots, bindings, and snowboard.* Find the right boot and boot size first as binding sizes are based on boot sizes.

      *(note: there is a rare exception with Burton's proprietary EST bindings, which is different from their normal Re:flex bindings. EST bindings will only work with Burton channel boards and the few other brands licensing their channel system. You didn't pick anything like that, so you don't need to worry about it.).

      Also adding to the list the following items:

      Board/bindings fix:

      Wax

      Wall mount:
      For the snowboard tool, either the EST tool or the bullet tool will work - don't need to buy both. Please note that majority of resorts will have tool stations with screwdrivers available if needing to make adjustments while on the mountain. The snowboarding tool is most helpful if something needs to be fixed randomly mid-trail. Can be a good investment if you ride a lot or plan to make a lot of adjustments to stance angle/width while riding, but consider waiting to buy if just starting out and only sticking to bunny trails / green trails since you likely will never be too far away from help.

      For the merino/base layers and socks, here what I have selected:




      FYI: the Classic All Season 1/4 zip is 150 weight so lightweight baselayer. Classic Crew is 250 weight so mid-weight baselayer (slightly warmer). May consider just buying one to start to see how it works for you. For me, classic crew baselayer + lightly insulated shell is good to down to -5C without significant windchill. I add a fleece if -10C or colder. People have different preferences for layering, but you do not want to be too hot / sweating excessively while riding. Usually when layered right, you feel slightly chilly at rest / on chairlifts but not too uncomfortable and not sweaty/hot while riding. Consider the temperature of where you ride to pick out what suits your needs.

      If really wanting to buy baselayer leggings, consider 3/4 shorts so your socks don't overlap with your bottoms (example: Men's Midweight X Base Layer 3/4 Boot Pants | Burton.com Winter 2023). Note I do not ever wear baselayer leggings and I snowboard down to -10C comfortably with just a shell bib for my legs, so I don't think thermal leggings are really needed unless you are hitting a lot colder temperatures.

      Google "All the gear and no idea"?
      Finally, the other members here are making a good point. There is no need to rush and buy a ton of gear to start. Consider just buying the bare essentials to start and then adding on what you need based on your experiences.

      For my first snowboarding outwear purchase as a beginner, I spent a total of $250 for googles, gloves, jacket, and pants (all basic entry level gear, all worn out and retired now). I just rented helmet, boots, bindings, and snowboard initially. After multiple annual trips when I really fell in love with snowboarding and committed to going on multiple trips per season, I purchased all my actual snowboard gear all on sale: board for $325, bindings for $200, boots for $300, and helmet for $240 (things are more expensive nowadays and in retrospect, probably would have done more research on the boots & tried on many more boots prior to buying and spent a bit less on the bindings, but I still have my same helmet since no major severe crashes with it yet). Added other protective gear pretty quickly - impact shorts, knee pads, and tried a variety of wrist guards as I fell a ton while learning which hurt a lot and I was a scaredy cat for more serious injuries which hampered my progression as a beginner (I still ride with protective gear for peace of mind even now, helpful for park progression and trying things outside my comfort zone). Added the Burton EST tool after a trip where my binding screws were coming loose during a run, added a snowboard lock after my friend had his board stolen, added portable boot dryer after trip where it rained all the time and my boots were still damp the next day... etc etc.

      In retrospect, the only gear I feel like I missed out while I was a beginner was snowboarding socks. Other "do-overs" would be getting nicer better fitting boots to start and bibs instead of pants. I've upgraded my googles, jacket, bibs, gloves, boots, snowboard, and bindings a few times as my older models get worn out and added fancier baselayers (I just follow specific items that I want to upgrade to for sales and watch end-of-season sales). For me, I enjoyed starting with entry level gear that I didn't worry too much about and when I gained more experience, I had a better idea what I needed to get as an upgrade and what specific gear would improve my time on the mountain.
       
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