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3 cm - Such a big difference?

14955 Views 21 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  Lamps, 
E
So, Rome Mod Rocker is my chosen board...that's was an easy choice ;)

Now the hard one is deciding how crucial can 3 cm be???
The past few days I'm hearing opinions abt weather to choose 153 or 156.
Each club member (sizing club) saying choosing the other club will be like the end of the world...nothing less :laugh:

I'm 172cm and 70kg with 9.5 foot size....

What do u guys says?
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Kevin137
Well i say, the weather has been fantastic today, and 3 cm matters not, well not until you want to use it... ;) :giggle:
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Eli said:
So, Rome Mod Rocker is my chosen board...that's was an easy choice ;)

Now the hard one is deciding how crucial can 3 cm be???
The past few days I'm hearing opinions abt weather to choose 153 or 156.
Each club member (sizing club) saying choosing the other club will be like the end of the world...nothing less :laugh:

I'm 172cm and 70kg with 9.5 foot size....

What do u guys says?
Click to expand...
Depends if u like more jib/butter/throw board around buy 153 its not so hevy
or if u want to do big kickers pow and be more stable buy 156
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E
Well, we have a joke...
A guy say to a girl (after having S E X) Darling...Just 3 cm more and I would have been a king...She say...Dear, just a 3 cm less and u would be a queen :-D
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E
Actually, All I'm trying to do now is 180 jump and improve my fakey...
I'm just afraid 153 will not hold curves and that 156 will make it hard on fast maneuvers
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S
156 you can keep the board for a longer time if you grow or gain weight. plus riding gear (pants jacket boots helmet if you wear one, gloves) is like an extra 10-15 lbs.
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poutanen
You're taller and the same weight as me. I ride a 160... MAN UP! lol

3 cm is about 2% in length, not going to feel a huge difference between either, but I'd err on the bigger side.

That sad, if you're new go shorter until you get the hang of it.
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E
I'm still consider myself under the "new" category. Although i've been riding for 5 years now, but only a 1-2 weeks a year. So a total of 2-2.5 moths on the snow :(
When ppl says 153 won't hold on carves what do they mean? I'm not riding that fast yet...
So, giving the fact u go on a regular speed...will it hold?
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slyder
I think this will be my 5th season riding I forget and I also consider my self new to the sport/lifestyle and I'm an old guy to boot.

I downsized from a 159 Skatebanana to a 156 Arbor Westmark so I can progress in the park more. I noticed more maneuverability but I attribute this to a more flexy board and another year of riding under my belt.
I have no issues hard charging down steeps and what I consider my carving. I have never lost an edge do to equipment, my skill yes

Not sure if this helps your decision either way just thought I"d share my experience with your 3cm issue
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Eli said:
I'm still consider myself under the "new" category. Although i've been riding for 5 years now, but only a 1-2 weeks a year. So a total of 2-2.5 moths on the snow :(
When ppl says 153 won't hold on carves what do they mean? I'm not riding that fast yet...
So, giving the fact u go on a regular speed...will it hold?
Click to expand...
You have to decide what you plan to do with the board and the terrain. Given that you are still growing and if you plan on only using it in the Park go with the 153.

Furthermore, it's not about the length but about the shape, width and stiffness of the board. I ride boards from 155 to 162. The 162 is an old (2000) Morrow Blaze (Big mtn Freestyle board) and it is only a little longer than my 158 NS Heritage. My weight fluctuates from 160 to 180 and I have size 8.5 boots. In order to control the Blaze, I use a pair of Ride CAD. In comparison, I use Now IPO for my Heritage. The 155 is a NS SL paired with Flux Titans.

From the above examples, you'll notice the stiffer and wider the board the stiffer the binding. In addition, the above boards are used for differing activities. I'd never take my Morrow Blaze into the Park and the NS SL was to small when I took it down the icy steeps in Maine but it is great in the Poconos.

Hope this helps - Nito
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E
Thanks for all of you replying...Everything helps :)
I'm gonna use the new Rome Mod Rocker with my Ride Capo bindings so in terms of bindings it should be good for the park as far as I know.
I'm 35 so I guess I will not get any taller :) but in terms of weight I'm keeping around 70kg and down.
My current board btw, is 2011 K2 ParkStar 155 and I want the Rome to upgrade my pop and my turning abilities (especially with increasing speed).
But all in all, I'm still new to this sport so the main question will be what is more noticeable at this point?
If I'll take 156 I know it will keep more stable on carves, but will it have such a negative effect at the park?
On the other hand, If I'll take the 153 it will be easier to improve at the park, but how bad will it effect the stability (in my case) at carves?

I guess what I'm trying to figure out is on which of the options above will the negative effect be less noticeable

Thanks again to you all,
Eli
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Eli said:
Thanks for all of you replying...Everything helps :)
I'm gonna use the new Rome Mod Rocker with my Ride Capo bindings so in terms of bindings it should be good for the park as far as I know.
I'm 35 so I guess I will not get any taller :) but in terms of weight I'm keeping around 70kg and down.
My current board btw, is 2011 K2 ParkStar 155 and I want the Rome to upgrade my pop and my turning abilities (especially with increasing speed).
But all in all, I'm still new to this sport so the main question will be what is more noticeable at this point?
If I'll take 156 I know it will keep more stable on carves, but will it have such a negative effect at the park?
On the other hand, If I'll take the 153 it will be easier to improve at the park, but how bad will it effect the stability (in my case) at carves?

I guess what I'm trying to figure out is on which of the options above will the negative effect be less noticeable

Thanks again to you all,
Eli
Click to expand...
Based on Pop and stability at speed, I'd say go for the 156. But best to compare it in store with your 155.

Here is some general info.

Turn initiation has to do with waist width and shape. Assuming the same shape (I don't know the K2 or Rome product line), 153 Rome Mod Rocker probably has a smaller waist width and therefore should turn faster. The same would also be true if the 156 Rome Mod Rocker has a smaller waist width than the 155 K2 Parkstar. Regarding shape: Easiest turn Reverse > hybrid > Camber Hardest.

Stability at speed has more to do with shape and stiffness. Given the same stiffness and length, Camber boards have best stability at speed but harder to turn. Also, the stiffer the board the more stable at speed.

Pop has to do with shape and stiffness. Most pop Camber>CRC>RCR>reverse camber least pop. I don't know how flat tech figures into Pop. Note think of your board as a spring, if a board is to stiff, it will be hard to load the tailup and get boosted. If it is to soft, it won't store any energy to boost you.
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E
Hi All,

Thanks for all reply, I think I will go for the 153.
Here is a link for a review that made me understand it will fit me.
The guy using it weight some 10kg more than me and according to his review it was a fine fit, stability was well and kicked pow as well as park.

2014 Rome Mod Rocker Snowboard Used and Reviewed «

Hope it will be a help for others having these kind of doubts.
Eli.
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poutanen
Nito said:
Furthermore, it's not about the length but about the shape, width and stiffness of the board.
Click to expand...
I think the length is just as important as width, shape, flex, etc. It's all part of the board!

Nito said:
Turn initiation has to do with waist width and shape. Assuming the same shape (I don't know the K2 or Rome product line), 153 Rome Mod Rocker probably has a smaller waist width and therefore should turn faster. Stability at speed has more to do with shape and stiffness. Given the same stiffness and length, Camber boards have best stability at speed but harder to turn. Also, the stiffer the board the more stable at speed.
Click to expand...
Okay that I just don't understand. Camber is harder to turn? It's less forgiving if you have poor edge control, but it doesn't take more effort to turn.

One thing you're missing in your calcs is effective edge length and edge radius. Those have more to do with high speed carving than waist width, or length. If fact any nose/tail past the effective edge is pretty much wasted wood. There's a reason the BX boards look like a stiff 1x8 with metal edges. The effective edge goes nearly right to the tips, instead of 15 or so CM back from each tip.
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poutanen said:
Okay that I just don't understand. Camber is harder to turn? It's less forgiving if you have poor edge control, but it doesn't take more effort to turn.
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I think what he means is that u need to be more aggressive movement to turn which translate to effort invested in initiating it.
Regarding the rest, I agree, waist length and sidecut radius are important factor for turning.
Regarding effective edge, well, the more u got makes it more stable but the less u got makes it easier to initiate turns.
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Eli said:
I think what he means is that u need to be more aggressive movement to turn which translate to effort invested in initiating it.
Regarding the rest, I agree, waist length and sidecut radius are important factor for turning.
Regarding effective edge, well, the more u got makes it more stable but the less u got makes it easier to initiate turns.
Click to expand...
All other things being equal (flex, length, sidecut, etc.. ) a traditional cambered board is easier to turn, as your contact points are at the tips of your effective edge, extending your front ankle (toe or heel) down will make the board want to go on edge. Rocker takes usually a bit more extention or a bit of swing of your weight to engage the edge which is why it feels looser (more forgiving) you have a wider margin before an edge engages on a rocker board than on a camber.
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poutanen
Eli said:
I think what he means is that u need to be more aggressive movement to turn which translate to effort invested in initiating it.
Regarding the rest, I agree, waist length and sidecut radius are important factor for turning.
Regarding effective edge, well, the more u got makes it more stable but the less u got makes it easier to initiate turns.
Click to expand...
Yeah that I disagree with. A wider board will be harder to get up on edge, but having more effective edge shouldn't make it any harder to initiate (assuming we're talking about carving here).

Bottom line, if you want the ultimate carving board (on soft boots) you want the most effective edge you can comfortably ride, and a decent dose of some camber under feet. My board has a lifted nose from about 6-8" in front of the front binding to help with powder, but other than that it's mildly cambered. It's also not that stiff longitudinally, but quite stiff torsionally. Lets me feel everything but it isn't like riding a plank like my older heavily cambered board.
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hktrdr
Eli said:
I think what he means is that u need to be more aggressive movement to turn which translate to effort invested in initiating it.
Click to expand...
Only if you are doing it wrong.

Eli said:
Regarding effective edge, well, the more u got makes it more stable but the less u got makes it easier to initiate turns.
Click to expand...
Not if you are using proper technique.
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hktrdr said:
Only if you are doing it wrong.


Not if you are using proper technique.
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U are probably right, when u are advanced rider who "lives" on the mountains.
Unfortunately, I'm not, I only have around 2 weeks of riding a year :(
So, for me, and guys like me, everything counts! Probably because we are not yet have the skills (and I doubt if we'll ever have) when u can ignore the specs and ride them all...
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poutanen
Eli said:
U are probably right, when u are advanced rider who "lives" on the mountains.
Unfortunately, I'm not, I only have around 2 weeks of riding a year :(
So, for me, and guys like me, everything counts! Probably because we are not yet have the skills (and I doubt if we'll ever have) when u can ignore the specs and ride them all...
Click to expand...
Actually the physics apply the same no matter how long you've been riding. The only real changes I would make for a newer rider is to shorten the board a few CM from what the suggested length/weight is, and to not go for anything at either end of the spectrum (i.e. MASSIVE camber or rocker, super stiff or wet noodle) something in the middle is much better to learn on.

Get an all-mountain mid-flex board in your weight range and don't over think it! :yahoo:
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