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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,
I'm new to the forum and in need of help.
Last winter my friend took me to the ski resort and I tried snowboarding - after the second day (when I could finally get my turns linked) I fell in love with the sport. The day after I went and bought Burton Moto boots since those rentals are baaaad.
So I decided to get my own board for this season (the rentals are all banged up and suck big time), so I was looking at good beginners all mountain board and decided to buy a K2 Brigade, wanted a 155 wide because I'm quite light for my age and height :laugh:

There are no normal prices for snowboards in my country so I've ordered one online (got a good price for a board and the bindings), but they shipped a standard 155cm board instead of a wide board.
Now it's complicated to return a board and import a new one, so I was looking at the overhang of my boot.
I've attached some pics, so please help a brother out, and just give me some advice.
First some info:
K2 Brigade 155
Waist width 24.9, width at inserts (0 deg) 25.8
Burton Moto 11.5 (US size)
K2 Hurrithane bindings (L)






(paper in a pic is a 60deg angle)
Is that too much overhang?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It looks perfectly fine to me. Did you tilt the board heel to toe and see how far till they touch?
Yeah, and I can get a good angle (it's a bit tricky since the bindings are not screwed on to the board - board is wrapped in plastic and I don't want to take it off in case I need to change it)
But if I try to get my boot total centered (to get 1" overhang on heel, and 1" overhang on toe) my binding starts to overhang on my heel side, and I dont know if that is OK (back foot at 0deg for testing purposes; I ride -6deg), look:


 

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Yeah, and I can get a good angle (it's a bit tricky since the bindings are not screwed on to the board - board is wrapped in plastic and I don't want to take it off in case I need to change it)
But if I try to get my boot total centered (to get 1" overhang on heel, and 1" overhang on toe) my binding starts to overhang on my heel side, and I dont know if that is OK (back foot at 0deg for testing purposes; I ride -6deg), look:


That small amount of over hang will not affect you at all. And I think when you set them in your riding stance, you will have no binding over hang.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yep. You'll be just fine. It will reduce the boot over hang as well
Thanks for your help, I really appreciate it.
I was tearing my head apart thinking should I go trough all the trouble of returning the board and getting a wide one, and trust me it's a real pain in the ass and the shipping fees are huge.

I still think a wide one would be even better (especially in the deeper snow) but if this will do for at least two seasons of me learning how to snowboard, I'm gonna be happy :)
 

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You've got a great set up and for learning, if your able to ride a non wide board it will be easier to maneuver and learn your riding style. If you have the opportunity to demo or ride some friends boards AFTER you get a good feel for your riding style, try a wide board before you buy one.
 

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Thanks for your help, I really appreciate it.
I was tearing my head apart thinking should I go trough all the trouble of returning the board and getting a wide one, and trust me it's a real pain in the ass and the shipping fees are huge.

I still think a wide one would be even better (especially in the deeper snow) but if this will do for at least two seasons of me learning how to snowboard, I'm gonna be happy :)
You're not going to be carving hard enough to touch those anytime soon I bet. Make sure the front and back overhang is even.
 

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I would adjust the heel cup back if you can and even out the overhang. You can still go back kinda far on that set-up. I would get toe drag with your set-up for sure. I'll take a picture of my over hang when I get a chance. I wear size 11 boots, and I can always get my regular boards dialed in. I've never even considered a wide board.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I would adjust the heel cup back if you can and even out the overhang. You can still go back kinda far on that set-up. I would get toe drag with your set-up for sure. I'll take a picture of my over hang when I get a chance. I wear size 11 boots, and I can always get my regular boards dialed in. I've never even considered a wide board.
Heel cups are not adjustable.
Anyway bindings are backed up all the way towards the heel side, and I get equal overhang on toes and heel of the boot, (1" inch on front, and 1" inch on the back).
I hope that should be OK
 

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Discussion Starter #14
One more thing to ask; this is a directional twin board with a 3/4 setback
Now the center (marked) holes are 21" apart and I want to use a smaller stance for a start (20") and that can only be achieved if I leave the front foot in the marked holes, and bring the back foot closer to the center of a board - when I do that both feet are the same distance from tip and tail (there is no more setback)


Is that the proper way to do it or I'm gonna mess up the performance with that?
 

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One more thing to ask; this is a directional twin board with a 3/4 setback
Now the center (marked) holes are 21" apart and I want to use a smaller stance for a start (20") and that can only be achieved if I leave the front foot in the marked holes, and bring the back foot closer to the center of a board - when I do that both feet are the same distance from tip and tail (there is no more setback)


Is that the proper way to do it or I'm gonna mess up the performance with that?
You don't want to do that! If you really want a narrower stance, you will have to go with whatever stance you get by moving both bindings in equally!

A directional twin is designed to be ridden and perform with the setback! You don't mention how tall you are, so it's difficult to say why you would want a such a narrow stance!
I'm 6 ft. and I started out riding a 163 cm full cambered directional board with about a 19.75 - 20.5 in. wide stance. When I opened that up to around 23" it helped my riding.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
It sound like he is using the holes in the disks to adjust the binding position across the board, meaning he loses the ability to do what you suggest.
Oh, he's using the wholes to go heel to toe not tip to tail?
Sounds like it from this comment:
Yes, I forgot to mention that this is the case.
I turned the binding discs across the board so I can adjust overhang equally, so I lost the ability to change the stance on the binding discs.

You don't want to do that! If you really want a narrower stance, you will have to go with whatever stance you get by moving both bindings in equally!

A directional twin is designed to be ridden and perform with the setback! You don't mention how tall you are, so it's difficult to say why you would want a such a narrow stance!
I'm 6 ft. and I started out riding a 163 cm full cambered directional board with about a 19.75 - 20.5 in. wide stance. When I opened that up to around 23" it helped my riding.
I've heard comments that is doable on this board; it has a setback but it also has same tip and tail (like a true twin), and that small change will not affect sidecut activation (since I'll be perfectly centered on the middle of the board and the sidecut)
When I mount the bindings like in my question, center of both bindings are same distance from tip and tail.

Regarding my stance:
I'm 6’1” tall (and pretty light for my size - 150lb), and my shoulder width is 18.9", and when i put a 20" stance on the board it feels more natural to me than 21", and i can notice (when I try on my carpet) that it's easier for me to pivot that way.
I will try both ways when I get on the snow, but I was just asking so I don't make a big set-up mistake before my first run.
I even tried to put both bindings to the closest holes, and that's about 17.7" and I feel that's too narrow.
 
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