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Advise - Full snowboarding outfit and equipment

5235 Views 68 Replies 18 Participants Last post by  Craig64
Hi all,

I would like to purchase a full snowboarding outfit and equipment to mark my 35th anniversary ;)

Level: beginner - intermediate for occasional practice, weekends and holidays
Looking for: versatility, durability, quality, comfortable, warm, long term investment, uniform style

After doing some research, here is my selection:

Snowboard - Nitro Cinema
Bindings - Fix Snowboard Rossignol Battle Black White - M-L
Boots - Burton Moto Boa Black
Jacket – Burton - Men's Burton [ak] Helitack GORE‑TEX 2L Hedge Green
Pants - Burton - [ak] Cyclic GORE-TEX 2 L Hedge Green
Socks - Burton - Ultralight compression
Helmet - POC Fornix
Goggles - Atomic Revent OTG HD Goggles Black
Bagpack – Burton [ak] Dispatcher 25 L
Gloves - Burton [ak] Clutch GORE-TEX Gloves
Pullover / Hoodie - Burton - Mountain Sweatshirt
Fleece Jacket - The North Face
T-shirt - Helly Hansen - Pro Lifa
Hood - POC – Balaclava
Hat - Burton
Other Mountain boots - Moon Boot - Bottes Icon Black Nylon
Snowboard protection – Burton Commuter Space Sack

What do you think about the choices, quality and consistency of the equipment?

If you have any advice, especially on the following aspects, I'd love to have your feedback:
  • Board
  • Bindings
  • Boots
  • Jacket/ Pants

Many thanks for your help :)
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thats a good point, I read it as he wanted to "splurge" if I was looking to stack rank areas to spend dollars I'd go

1. boots
2. goggles
3. board
4. Bibs
5. Binding
6. jacket
This is a great recommendation, boots and googles are extremely important and I would splurge more on them compared to other gear.

Boots is individual fit, so you need to try it on. Make sure to read the articles about boot fit and get your Mondo size. Boots should fit tight with your toes touching the tip at rest (toes will pull back in snowboarding stance with your knees and ankles flexed). It should not have weird hotspots or be uncomfortable when you first buy. Boots may pack out over time so better slightly tighter fit. Can heatmold the boots at the shop for a better fit before you leave.

Googles I highly recommend Anon line like the M4 because you can get magnetic facemask. It is a great system as you don't need a separate baclava or neck warmer. Baclavas sometimes has issues with fit or fogging up your goggles but the magnetic face mask really prevents goggle fogging compared to a separate piece. Anon M4 Goggles (Toric) + Bonus Lens + Face Mask | Anon Optics Winter 2023 There is a low nose bridge version too. Cylindrical vs Toric lens is personal preference, Toric is pricer I think (I have Torric).

As a beginner, if you aren't riding in rain, don't get 3L gear!! That is much more expensive to be more lightweight geared towards backcountry. You will be fine with 2L gore-tex or other equivalents.

Highly recommend bibs over pants, especially if beginner and may fall a bit more. Pricing isn't that far off. Really prevents snow from getting into base layers.

I don't think you need lower leg baselayers unless you ride somewhere super cold as legs usually stay warm due to all the activity. If needing it, get the three quarters base layers so it doesn't overlap with your snowboarding socks.

Snowboarding socks, I really like Darn Tough. I have Function 5 socks that have a bit of padding for more comfort. Men's Function 5 Over-the-Calf Midweight Ski & Snowboard Sock

Get merino wool base layer! It makes riding much more comfy and no odor. I have SmartWool Crew but other wellpriced options from Icebreaker and a lot of other brands. Men's Classic Thermal Merino Base Layer Crew | Smartwool®

Midlayer you can save money here. A simple fleece works well for most conditions. Don't need anything too fancy. Polyester fleece that is breathable. Patangoina as some premium options. I have a cheaper Kuhl Interceptr.

Outermost layer can go with shell or lightly insulated depending on how you want to layer. Arm passpocket, pit zips, inner warmer phone pocket, extra outer chest pocket, powder skirts are all nice features to have. Articulated vs integrated hoods are a personal preference (I like articulated hoods where you have a separate hood and the collar can go all the way up without causing the hood to ride up).

Gloves vs Mittens are personal preference. Mittems are warmer but less dexterity. Also Trigger finger style gloves. Some have pockets for handwarmers that you can also use as a passpocket. Touchscreen compatibility is really nice as well. A high end option is Hestra is you want to splurge.

Also, you should look into protective gear if you're a beginner and may fall a bit. Burton impact shorts, Black Diamond Telekneesis knee pads, and wrist guards (I use Level gloves with small wrist guards), but may want something more protective until you learn to fall without outstretching your hands.

End of season sales are really great, a lot of discounts to be found. There are some dedicated lower price sale sites like Moosejaw and Mountainsteals.
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For the snowboarding bag, if you are planning airline trips to snowboard, you should get a wheelie bag (smallest size that fits your snowboard length - if too big, the bag will bend and it would be awkward to carry). Dakine low-roller or Burton Wheelie bag are popular options. If just driving to snowboard, a regular snowboard bag or skipping the bag completely if fine.

For general storage between trips, a snowboard bag can be nice, but just any dry place is fine (avoid places that will get really hot or really humid). Don't stack anything ontop of it. Some people have wall mounts and display their snowboard. I've read different things about whether to have it standing upright vs horizontal to prevent the board from losing its shape, but I doubt it makes that much of a difference.

For board storage at the end of the season, this video has really good tips:
. Also this article has a good summary: How to Store a Snowboard over Summer | Snowboarding Profiles. Instead of waxing yourself, you can take it to a shop ask for a end-of-season wax (where they put more on more wax for storage). Ideally, you would also scrape the wax off day before riding with an acrylic plastic wax scraper (don't use metal). The wax will come off with riding, but first few runs your snowboard will not glide as well and may feel sticky. A shop will scrape off wax for you as well if needed, but it is easy to DIY.

For general snowboard maintenance, make sure you dry your snowboard after you ride (especially the edges as they can rust). May need to re-wax the base every so often (can take to a shop to do this). General recommendation is 3-5 days, but I've gone without waxing after 1-2 weeks of riding and I know some riders who rarely wax their board. Basically, your board will not glide as well or as fast if it hasn't been waxed recently. You should clean the base of your board with a Scotch-Brite sponge or brass snowboard bush prior to waxing to get the dirt and gunk out. Clean your base prior to storage at the end of the season too. Some people use chemical base cleaners, but other people don't recommend it, so up to you if you want to try it. If you feel like your edges aren't holding well in icy conditions, you can take it to a shop and ask them to sharpen your edges.
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Hello guys,

Just to follow-up, I have reviewed the initial selection, especially to go for better Boots as essential, included bibs instead of pants and a smaller bagpack:

Boots: Men's Photon Step On® Snowboard Boots | Winter 2023

Bibs: Men's [ak] Cyclic GORE-TEX 2L Bib Pants (Short) | Winter 2023

Smaller bagpack 18L instead of 25L: [ak] Dispatcher 18L Backpack | Winter 2023

What do you think of this revisited selection? Many thanks ;)
Step-On boots are only compatible with Burton Step-On Bindings. I would demo the step-on system prior to committing as small minority of users get pinky toe hotspot pain which makes it not comfortable to ride. For boots, really need to try them out yourself, so hard to say if your selection is good or not without you testing it yourself and seeing how they fit. After you try on some pairs, if there is a particular issue with a brand / specific boot when trying on, people who had similar issues can give feedback on good alternatives.

Cyclic bibs are really nice overall. A good high-end pick.

If you are a solo rider or riding with other adults (no children) and you are sticking to the resort (no off-piste or backcountry) and not doing any filming (needing to carry camera gear / spare batteries), I don't think you really need backpack. Small snacks and even a small waterbottle fit in pockets. Most resorts have lodges everywhere, so can get water/snacks throughout the day as well. Really only extra layers would be the only other thing I can think of that need to be carried but once you go a few times, you will know what layers to bring for what conditions and temperatures. I bring normal backbag with me to the mountain with extra layers, spare lens, spare gloves, different condition face masks, drinks/snacks, etc but I leave all of it in the car - rarely had to go back to swap out gear. I usually only carry my chairlift pass, wallet, cellphone, pocket tissues, burton est tool, soft goggle case that can be used as goggle wipe, and snack bars on me when I ride. I personally wouldn't recommend riding with a backpack - especially for a beginner, as it impacts your balance and technique with the additional weight on your back. Most chairlifts require you to take it off as well during the chairlift ride so just additional hassle overall. Is there something particular that you need to bring where you think the pockets of your snowboard jacket and pants/bibs aren't enough?
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For boots, you really have to try in person first to see how different boots fit. Online shopping isn't very helpful as no way to check if they actual fit your foot so will be hit or miss if you don't try in store first. Brand names are only helpful in the sense that different brands tend to cater to different foot shapes overall, so if certain brand/boot models are uncomfortable in certain areas, it can help direct your search. You need to measure your foot's Mondo size (length and width in cm) - do it with heel against the wall for best measurements, and look at a sizing chart to see what snowboard boot size you are.

When trying on in store, boots should feel tight and snug with toes pressing against the tip without curling or pain/hotspots. When you get into your snowboard stance, your toes will pull back. Your heel should be very locked in without any heel lift. Your foot should not be able to slide around in the boot at all. There should be no painful hotspots. Check the fit in your snowboarding stance (pretend to do toeside/heelside turns) and walk around with them for a bit. I would recommend keeping the pair you decide to buy on for at least 20 minutes minimum before buying and heat molding at the store. Note usually heatmolding makes the sale final and nonrefundable. When tou find a well-fitting pair of boots, you should definitely heat mold them as it will improve fit and comfort and performance.

If you are buying online only without trying on the store, be prepared that the boots may not fit & you may have to buy many different models before you find the right one. Buy from a store with very good refund policy and don't snowboard in boots that are painful at home. After you ride then, you won't be able to return.

For merino wool baselayers, smartwool and ice breaker are two brands that are popular and well-priced. Baselayers come in different weights depending what conditions you are dealing with. I have a mid weight SmartWool Thermal Crew that has been very versatile (link here: SmartWool Thermal Crew Baselayer). Usually for higher than -5C temps & and without wind, a mid weight baselayer and my lightly insulated shell is sufficient for me. If very windy or less than -5C, I add a midweight fleece.

For me personally riding in -10c & above, I personally don't use use a baselayer for the legs (my legs never really get cold since very active while snowboarding). If buying legging, look for 3/4 fit so they don't double up with your snowboarding socks.
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Excellent, thanks a lot for your inputs here money4me247, very helpful. I was for sure planning to go in store for the boots, helmet and other elements but this is still helpful for me at this point to find out a few references upfront, as I am based in a place where I have limited access to some stores/products. So I can already search online, then select the stores to visit with a maximum of choices.

I will also have a look on the merino wool baselayers options you provided ;)

Other point I wanted to clarify when it comes to the choice of the Helmet/Goggles. Does it have to be 100% the same brand or not especially, highly preferred or better?
What matters with helmets + googles is if the top brim of the helmet fits with the top of the google. There shouldn't be a gap. Getting from the same brand will guarantee a good fit there, but most googles and helmets work together fine. I have a Smith helment and Anon googles that don't have any issues. Also used Oakley googles that worked fine with the helmet. Good point to test that fit prior to hitting the slopes.
Top notch :) thanks again for this money4me247.

For the wax to maintain the board, do you have any kit recommendation?

And also: as a beginner, should I mount the bindings on my own or leave a professional doing so?
If wanting to save money, there are tons of great synthetic polyester baselayers that are cheaper than merino wool and also wick away sweat will to prevent that cold/clammy feeling while snowboarding. The downside of synthetics is that they retain more odor if you are on longer trips without a washing machine (usually after 2-3 days), but they are more durable and easier to wash like @Doraibu said. Perfectly good alternative to merino wool depending on what you need. I have a 6 year old Hot Chili synthetic baselayer that still works great. Definitely very durable.

For waxing, you really just need a iron, plastic scrapper, and wax. Kits usually have more than you need, but if you want to get more into other snowboard maintenance, it can be helpful. Demon and RaceWax both have a wide variety of good kits at different price points depending on what you are looking for. For a snowboard iron, nicer ones have digital display or digital temperature control or a larger base to retain more heat - but really any iron will work (some people even use clothing iron - but can't iron clothes with it after it gets wax on it). For plastic scrapper, a larger one is better since you can scrape off more wax with each pass. For wax, I just buy a large block of all temperature wax because I go snowboarding very often (there are tons of wax companies: Demon and Purl have well-priced 1lb blocks). For more performance wax, Hertel is a very popular and frequently recommended brand. There are also temperature-specific waxes that perform better at their listed temperatures. There are tons of wax brands and options but I would avoid rub-on (without iron) wax as it does not last very long. There are fancier things like brushing your board (brass brush before to clean the base and some people use 3 brush pass afterwards with brass brush, nylon brush, and horsehair brush) but usually only important if racing. Note there are many people that don't bother waxing or just take to the shop to wax.

For bindings, I would definitely recommend that you learn how to put on your own bindings (and how to change stance angles and change stance width). It is extremely easy once you learn, just need a screwdriver, and your bindings will come with a manual.

Bindings will have a separate piece that is a circular base plate that you rotate for your stance angles and screw into the inserts on the snowboard at your desired stance width. Stance width is usually slightly more than shoulder width apart - usually the properly sized snowboard's reference stance markers are very close. Make sure you tighten the screws very well so your bindings don't loosen while ridding. If tightened by hand as hard as you can usually stays in place very well, but should check before every trip that your bindings aren't loosening. If it happens on the mountain, all resorts have areas with screwdrivers for tune-ups and many snowboarders carry pocket screwdrivers and the on-mountain shops/rental stores can help as well.

I also carry the Burton EST tool so I can tighten my bindings or adjust angles/stance if needed. Being able to set the tool in a right angle really helps being able to crank down your screws.

Also, you want the midline of your foot/boot at the mid-line of the snowboard (ideally minimum overhang at the toe/heels, if any overhang should be symmetrical amounts). If your snowboard boots are size 11 or larger, often will need a wide snowboard depending on your stance angles to prevent overhang.

You can post of picture after your bindings are attached on your board on the forums if you have any concerns and people will help you out.
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Thanks a lot guys once again for your precious advises, I have learned a lot from you :)

I will now search for more items regarding: base layers in merino, wax kit/tools for mounting the bindings and add them to the list.

For the Goggles, I have seen this kind of option at Anon: magnetic lenses/interchangeable depending on weather condition:

However, it is super expensive, I am seeking for a some Goggles/pack of lenses with a way cheaper alternative. Apparently, Oakley doesn't not offer any goggles with magnetic lens system.
For mounting the bindings, a normal #3 Philips screwdriver works. Only need to buy something if you want to carry a pocket screwdriver for on hill adjustments.

For goggles, only Anon has the magnetic facemask system where goggles attach to your facemask and it is a really really nice system. It is definitely a premium top-of-the-line pair of goggles but if you aren't planning on using a magnetic facemask, can go with another brand. I have the M4 and love the magnetic facemask system. It has a ton of features: nice lens, x2 lens that swap easily via magnetics, bundled magnetic facemask. Oakley and Smith also have good goggles as well, but the premium top-of-the-line googles are similar pricing. If trying to find something more budget, you probably will lose out on more premium features like multiple lens and magnetic lens swap system.

I personally get premium goggles because I feel like the extra features have really been worth it for me, compared to my outerwear I usually try to find the cheapest option that has the features I need, but I recently upgraded my jacket to the Burton Swash and it is quite nice.

There are many good budget goggles with nice lens quality. For budget goggles, focus on a pair with good lens quality with variable condition lens and don't worry about extra features because more budget pricing usually won't have a lot of bells & whistles. Many people don't bother swapping lens so it is fine to ride with one lens. I rode with the Oakley Flight Deck for a while and didn't ever swap lens. Oakley usually does not bundle a 2nd lens. Swapping lens is really nice when you are riding more difficult terrain and want to really see where you are going in low light/foggy conditions - a low light lens & a regular variable condition lens is what I have.

Like @Craig64 said, based on your outerwear selection, you are hitting really top of the line premium outwear products (Burton AK Line for example), which is usually a more price is not a big factor type selection. So the M4 would be a similar premium level option for goggles. There are a lot cheaper well-performing outerwear options out there (a sample more budget oriented entry level combo would be $200 DC command jacket + $200 north face freedom bib - both waterproof without goretex, total $400). Your Helitrack jacket + Cyclic bibs combo is top-of-line premium type selection, already $1k+ usd. What's was your overall budget?

@Doraibu makes an extremely good point as well. I bought and upgraded my gear overtime. Buying everything all at once, especially with the premium options you selected is likely extremely pricey. I think just starting with nice boots, helmet, and goggles is a great idea.

If pricing is an issue, can drop gore-tex branded products if not riding in wet conditions (or look at the entry level goretex gear from brands, Burton has cheaper options than what you selected and there are other good quality brands cheaper than Burton - Burton does have a really nice generous warranty though) and go synthetic baselayers instead of merino as merino is more expensive and premium. Snowboard stuff goes on end of season sales as well, so if you can wait, pricing will drop for nicer stuff as well
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Has anyone said that those goggles are $1400 because its a pack with 9 lenses 2 masks and a bunch of other crap?

A basic M4 toric frame/bright/low light/mask combo is $320 MSRP.
Good catch!! Ya, you only need a regular lens and low light lens, that pro kit is way overkill. Some people add a sunny lens if they have a lot of bright bluebird days but regular lens usually covers that as well.

Link to M4 toric lens $320: Anon M4 Goggles (Toric) + Bonus Lens + Face Mask | Anon Optics Winter 2023

Link to cylindrical lens version: Anon M4 Goggles (Cylindrical) + Lens + Face Mask | Anon Optics Winter 2023

There is also a small fit version and low nose bridge version. Probably try on in store to see what fits best.
Additional question:

Boots: Nidecker - Rift (to be tried in store) Rift
Bindings: Rossignol Battle Men's Rossignol Battle B&W snowboard binding (M/L)
Board: Nitro Cinema (after recommendation from Nitro based on my level and needs) Cinema | Nitro Snowboards
Size advised: 155 - I am 175cm

Nitro recommended to go for some Rambler to have the full kit with the board - they said thought that this is compatible with the Rossignol Rambler | Nitro Snowboards

It is a seller "upsell" or it would better to go for the same board/bindings brand?
You don't need to stay with the same brand for boots, bindings, and snowboard.* Find the right boot and boot size first as binding sizes are based on boot sizes.

*(note: there is a rare exception with Burton's proprietary EST bindings, which is different from their normal Re:flex bindings. EST bindings will only work with Burton channel boards and the few other brands licensing their channel system. You didn't pick anything like that, so you don't need to worry about it.).

Also adding to the list the following items:

Board/bindings fix:


Wall mount:
For the snowboard tool, either the EST tool or the bullet tool will work - don't need to buy both. Please note that majority of resorts will have tool stations with screwdrivers available if needing to make adjustments while on the mountain. The snowboarding tool is most helpful if something needs to be fixed randomly mid-trail. Can be a good investment if you ride a lot or plan to make a lot of adjustments to stance angle/width while riding, but consider waiting to buy if just starting out and only sticking to bunny trails / green trails since you likely will never be too far away from help.

For the merino/base layers and socks, here what I have selected:

FYI: the Classic All Season 1/4 zip is 150 weight so lightweight baselayer. Classic Crew is 250 weight so mid-weight baselayer (slightly warmer). May consider just buying one to start to see how it works for you. For me, classic crew baselayer + lightly insulated shell is good to down to -5C without significant windchill. I add a fleece if -10C or colder. People have different preferences for layering, but you do not want to be too hot / sweating excessively while riding. Usually when layered right, you feel slightly chilly at rest / on chairlifts but not too uncomfortable and not sweaty/hot while riding. Consider the temperature of where you ride to pick out what suits your needs.

If really wanting to buy baselayer leggings, consider 3/4 shorts so your socks don't overlap with your bottoms (example: Men's Midweight X Base Layer 3/4 Boot Pants | Winter 2023). Note I do not ever wear baselayer leggings and I snowboard down to -10C comfortably with just a shell bib for my legs, so I don't think thermal leggings are really needed unless you are hitting a lot colder temperatures.

Google "All the gear and no idea"?
Finally, the other members here are making a good point. There is no need to rush and buy a ton of gear to start. Consider just buying the bare essentials to start and then adding on what you need based on your experiences.

For my first snowboarding outwear purchase as a beginner, I spent a total of $250 for googles, gloves, jacket, and pants (all basic entry level gear, all worn out and retired now). I just rented helmet, boots, bindings, and snowboard initially. After multiple annual trips when I really fell in love with snowboarding and committed to going on multiple trips per season, I purchased all my actual snowboard gear all on sale: board for $325, bindings for $200, boots for $300, and helmet for $240 (things are more expensive nowadays and in retrospect, probably would have done more research on the boots & tried on many more boots prior to buying and spent a bit less on the bindings, but I still have my same helmet since no major severe crashes with it yet). Added other protective gear pretty quickly - impact shorts, knee pads, and tried a variety of wrist guards as I fell a ton while learning which hurt a lot and I was a scaredy cat for more serious injuries which hampered my progression as a beginner (I still ride with protective gear for peace of mind even now, helpful for park progression and trying things outside my comfort zone). Added the Burton EST tool after a trip where my binding screws were coming loose during a run, added a snowboard lock after my friend had his board stolen, added portable boot dryer after trip where it rained all the time and my boots were still damp the next day... etc etc.

In retrospect, the only gear I feel like I missed out while I was a beginner was snowboarding socks. Other "do-overs" would be getting nicer better fitting boots to start and bibs instead of pants. I've upgraded my googles, jacket, bibs, gloves, boots, snowboard, and bindings a few times as my older models get worn out and added fancier baselayers (I just follow specific items that I want to upgrade to for sales and watch end-of-season sales). For me, I enjoyed starting with entry level gear that I didn't worry too much about and when I gained more experience, I had a better idea what I needed to get as an upgrade and what specific gear would improve my time on the mountain.
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For Phase I:
  • Only get the pants or the bibs (don't need both) - I vote bibs.
  • Helitrack is pretty heavily insulated (says 200g down in body). That means it'll likely be too hot for spring riding or warmer temperatures (sunny day without wind at mid-30-40 degrees Fahrenheit can be a bit toasty in my lightly insulated jackets which only have 60-80 grams of primaloft) so if you are planning to ride warmer weather, may be better to get a pure shell + midlayer (like a fleece) for flexibility. If you don't want to worry about layering as much or ride only in really cold weather, the warmer jackets may work better for you. It also depends on how active you are when snowboarding - if no standing around and just making laps, you heat up pretty quickly AND what temperatures do you normally ride in.
  • No need for a second pair of lens for the M4, it already bundles a normal ("variable condition") lens and a cloudy lens. I think a normal/variable condition lens is already sufficient for most conditions unless it gets super cloudy and low visibility when you swap to the low light lens. I've only thought it was too bright with the variable lens when it was really sunny bluebird days at Park City, Utah. Where I normally ride on the East Cost of the US, I never needed sunny lens - usually overcast weather.
  • I like the EST tool better than the bullet tool because I carry the tool on me while I ride so I'm personally looking for the smallest/lightest/compact tool. Remember you can always just use a normal screw driver if you are changing things at home / your car / hotel.
  • Also Burton got hacked, so can't buy anything online from them, have to call in orders.
For Phase 2:
  • No need for a Balaclava as the M4 goggles will have a magnetic facemask that is bundled.
  • No need for a beanie hat in my experience & don't get one with puffy ball ontop if you are riding with a beanie (won't fit well under the helmet). The padding on the helmet is already warm enough (unless that beanie hat is for walking around, not snowboarding)...
  • You should definitely wear a helmet btw. Your brain is very precious. If you ever meet anyone with a severe traumatic brain injury, you can see how much life changes not only for you but also your family and loved ones.

Overall, for the outerwear, I think you need some more comparative data (aka go on a trip and see how you feel (warmth/cool-wise) with whatever gear you have now to see what actually suits your conditions and preferences. You mentioned you are a beginner/intermediate, so you should have already had a few trips worth of experience. What were you riding with then?
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