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Discussion Starter #41
A little confused, but 1210 vs 1350 effective edge is a difference of 14cm (nearly 6 inches for those in Trumpland), which is huge.
Oops ! My bad...Now im embarassed 馃槄 Math was never my strong suit but still...lol
 

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Discussion Starter #42
^ there is a 0 on that number that doesn鈥檛 belong there. Also 121mm is plenty EE for Mach 5 carving. I would say you may notice the 1.4 cm, but you鈥檙e not going to get any carves done because of it that you wouldn鈥檛 on 121. This is why buying in the off season is soooooo stressful. You鈥檝e gotta obsess over for months post purchase without knowing if you made the right choice! I鈥檝e been there :ROFLMAO:
Yup...Now I can鈥檛 convince myself of anything LOL Oh well, I鈥檒l have to be patient
 

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Discussion Starter #43
90 mm of effective edge difference would be huge. It鈥檚 not that much but honestly if the effective edge on the Pentaquark was 1210 mm it would be very short for an uber carver as they are marketing it. Especially that Peter Bauer claims in one of their vids that the Pentaquark in 160 cm boasts the running length of a 175 cm 鈥歵raditional board鈥. That is true but if you at the same time say that the running length is the same as the effective edge and someone takes the effective edge measurement from another brand this claim pales hard in such comparisons.

I rate the whole Centrifugal Collection I鈥檝e ridden very high as carving-oriented boards, their customer service is superb but their marketing is seriously below average.
Youtube any of their boards. One or two professional edits but I didn鈥檛 have a jaw-dropping moment watching the Pentaquark, the Unw8 or the Surfari in action. Especially for the fact that these are very expensive boards. Their instagram is better but still not even comparable to what Korua or Nidecker have been launching and I watch literally every day. For me the most 鈥歨yping vids鈥 are the ones on their site with Peter spinning each board in nice light with his googles on. The 19/21 collection looks so sleek and fresh. Where are some vids that show how great they carve on chop? This is where I feel the Antiphase working.

I could risk a statement that our very positive feedback on this forum makes Amplid sell more boards than their social media marketing.

Pentaquark 158 vs Korua CR 159. Both aligned with each other at the rear contact point of the effective edge. The paper strips are the front contact points of the effective edge.
This plus the fact that the Pentaquark is truly a full camber board while the CR has some rocker in the nose (this contact point is elevated) is the reason for me to keep both, the Penta as an uber carver and the CR as a daily resort carver plus powder :)
View attachment 153648
Alright then, thanks for explaining because I didn鈥檛 understand when they said 芦 it rides bigger than it is 禄. Now I just need to stop asking questions and wait to ride it because at the end, how it rides is all that matters. Thanks alot for the big answer !
 

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My understanding:

-Effective edge length: With the board on its side, the distance from contact point to contact point (true contact points) -- widest point to widest point measurement

-Running/Contact Length: With the board flat on its base and weighted, the distance between the most tip-ward and tail-ward contacts between the base and the surface. I once thought contact length was unweighted while running length was weighted, but I think they're both "supposed to be" the same measurement (weighted).

...but some use the terms interchangeably
...and with some boards I'm not sure where the numbers come from in some cases

Jones is a good example. A couple of years ago they used "running length" on their website and "effective edge" in their catalogue, but they were the same numbers. Now they just list effective edge.

Burton lists running length and effective edge for each board. The effective edge was consistent with widest point to widest point measurement. What they called 'contact length' didn't match anything I could measure on the one board that I tried it with. I feel like I should try it on more boards, but while I'm curious, and have time, I'm not sure that I curious enough to actually do it. The concept fits, even if the numbers aren't exactly the same. Could be individual variance + methodological flaws in the way I measure vs the way the brands do it. Could be that I've got it all wrong. I'm fine with either (or neither).

Lib/Gnu doesn't list the effective edge length. It lists "Contact Length" and it's consistent with the front base contact-to-rear base contact measurement when the board is lying flat as described above.
 

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Usually if a brand lists both contact length and effective edge, the greater the amount of rocker in tip and/or tail, the greater the difference is between contact length and effective edge length. "Full camber" boards typically have a small difference between EE and CL measurements. In reality most 'full camber' boards still have a bit of early rise to make them less catchy. Nobody wants to ride a boardercross-style board all the time.

Endeavor Alpha: full camber boardercross-style board with Contact length = Effective edge length. There is zero early rise. The contact points are always in the snow. Expect it to be precise and responsive.

Endeavor Live: "full camber" all-mountain freestyle board with Effective edge length > Contact length (~3-4cm). So expect a bit more forgiveness. The edge contacts are slightly lifted when the board is lying flat.

Endeavor Pioneer: "Camrock" freestyle board with Effective edge length >> Contact length (by ~20cm). So expect much more forgiveness. The edge contacts are clearly off the snow when the board is lying flat and will remain that way until the board is tilted over -- how far depends on a few other factors as well.
 

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This is a nice detailed explanation and how the EE to RL/CL ratio changes the ride.
EE is not the straight line between the widest points. It鈥檚 the arc. Korua has some nice drawings in their specs.
 

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EE is not the straight line between the widest points. It鈥檚 the arc. Korua has some nice drawings in their specs.
I agree that it should be, but some of the published numbers, when I've checked them against my boards in the past using a measuring tape, have been equal to the straight line length from contact to contact -- Burton and Jones do this (use the straight line distance). I just went out and checked on the One Hitter to make sure I was remembering correctly, and I can confirm that for those boards the reported EE is the straight line distance between the widest points, not the length of the actual arc (which is longer...and even moreso if there's edge tech). The actual EE is always going to be the length of the arc, but what some manufacturers do (maybe for ease of measurement) is use the straight-line measurement.

I pointed out Korua as an exception in one of my previous posts because of their diagrams showing that they actually list the length of the arc. I haven't owned a Korua board to confirm this.
 

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What kind of edge tech can make a board have more EE ?
Any edge tech will do it. The shortest distance is a straight line, so anything that adds 'curves' to the path increases the overall distance/length.

Imagine taking a string, placing it flat on a table and marking on the table where the ends of the string are. Then pick up the centre of the string and put an object (like a pen) underneath it and you'll see that the string, while still the same length as it was before you put the pen underneath it, now doesn't quite reach the end point that you originally marked on the table -- the bigger the object the more easy it will be to see this effect. To make the string reach the end-point you now need to lengthen the string. The more objects you add under the string, the longer of a string you'll need in order to make it still reach all the way from the starting point to the end point.

If you do the same with a snowboard then you effectively give yourself "more edge" without actually lengthening the board as a whole
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Any edge tech will do it. The shortest distance is a straight line, so anything that adds 'curves' to the path increases the overall distance/length.

Imagine taking a string, placing it flat on a table and marking on the table where the ends of the string are. Then pick up the centre of the string and put an object (like a pen) underneath it and you'll see that the string, while still the same length as it was before you put the pen underneath it, now doesn't quite reach the end point that you originally marked on the table -- the bigger the object the more easy it will be to see this effect. To make the string reach the end-point you now need to lengthen the string. The more objects you add under the string, the longer of a string you'll need in order to make it still reach all the way from the starting point to the end point.

If you do the same with a snowboard then you effectively give yourself "more edge" without actually lengthening the board as a whole
Oh yea ok you were saying that as in like the camber profile and all that. I thought there was something else that I was missing. My bad and I鈥檒l probably do the string experiment on my Pentaquark hehe
 

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Hi !
So I want to get a board for carving only. Im not an expert but I have my level 3 instructor certification in Canada so I Speed Test Scrabble Word Finder Solitaire would say Im an advanced rider.

I currently ride a Burton Deep Thinker 156.

I would like to know if there are some "cheap" (Under 700$CAD) boardercross boards ? Also, how big is the "agressivity" difference between something like my stick and a BX board ?
If there's not anything in my price range, any Freeride - Stiff - Wide - Twin or direct. twin board that you guys would recommand to replace a BX ?
(I don't want any toe drag)

Male / 5"10 / 145lbs /9US boot size
Their sidecuts are longer than normal, and the flex is specialized for stability and speed. I have a hard time riding my Pentaquark at some resorts because it's just too fast- it's like driving a supercar on city streets, if the supercar was super damp and comfortable.
 

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Their sidecuts are longer than normal, and the flex is specialized for stability and speed. I have a hard time riding my Pentaquark at some resorts because it's just too fast- it's like driving a supercar on city streets, if the supercar was super damp and comfortable.
That's what I'm saying! Word for word in fact.
Their sidecuts are longer than normal, and the flex is specialized for stability and speed. I have a hard time riding my Pentaquark at some resorts because it's just too fast- it's like driving a supercar on city streets, if the supercar was super damp and comfortable.
 

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Discussion Starter #56
@WigMar Hey I was wondering what bindings do you pair up with your penta ? Was thinking of Xf/Gen X/Now Recons (but scared of their skatetech even though everyone seems to love it)
 

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I haven't tried Now yet either. I've been running Flux TM on my Penta. They're super responsive, if a little lacking in the dampening department. I put some K2 Lien on there too, but I preferred the direct feel of the Flux.
 

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I haven't tried Now yet either. I've been running Flux TM on my Penta. They're super responsive, if a little lacking in the dampening department. I put some K2 Lien on there too, but I preferred the direct feel of the Flux.
Try the Now bindings kids, they're great.
I first tried em on West X 160.

Picture this
I got size 9 boots, the Ipos I bout were size L
Even in Size M bindings I have to slide the whole binding toe side to center my boot.
With a L I have to do it way WAY more, cause the heel cup is farther back.

So with my West X 160 with bindings that looked way toe side heavy, without me standing on it.
Became way too heel heavy once I strapped in.
The toe straps didn't even touch my toes, they just flopped around in the wind.

Oddly though, the heelcup fit mint.
Looking at it, I wasn't sure it was rideable, it looked fucked.
The center pins weren't even close to the center line of the board.
Which in my mind is kinda how I was envisioning this whole thing working.

It wasn't near as bad as I was expecting though.
So I figured I better get a pair of mediums just to make sure.

The M's fit perfect everywhere, except they pinched my heel so bad, I had to stop half way through the day & swap out.

The ride though, wasn't mind blowing. It was kinda like I just never thought about them the whole time I was riding.
Despite the problems. (minus the pinch, that was a big problem)

Then I finally got a couple pair that fit right.
Ran em on everything I rode.

It was when I tried riding any of my old bindings that I had loved so much.
I loved my Cappos, and a few other Ride brand, malavitas were what I rode the most, even though I kinda liked my Capos better. Have couple pair of Flux that I thought were awesome to.
Tryin' to think of a few more that I still have that I don't use anymore, but I don't really care lol

All my other bindings just felt like shit for some reason, can't quite say any specific reason, but every pair just didn't feel how I remembered em.
Which was kinda a downer, I didn't want any of them anymore d'oh.


I got about 5 or 6 pair now & they just seem to make a better ride.
Drink the cool-aid, it tastes yummy.


TT
 

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5-6 pairs of Now鈥檚 ? If so, are some of them for sale ? 馃槒

Yeah, I gotta sell a few pair. Have been mostly using Ipos.
But just picked up some pilots & selects, so gotta see what I like the most first.
The selects night be too big for me unfortunately.

TT
 
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