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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Not a huge deal at all as you can't even feel them so it's cosmetic, though there are a few tiny gouges in the base now that I'm concerned about; they look like tiny holes, marked in pic. I thought the wax was just super thick and I felt it tug and make my pull all curvy. Never happened to me before where a plastic scraper actually could damage a base.

The pic I uploaded shows the long scrape and the holes just for reference. No it's not a scrape in the wax, but curious has this ever happened to you guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
plastic/acrylic scrapers...push or pull
metal scrapers...pull
Yeah figured I was safe with acrylic, but apparently they can cause damage too. Fairly certain nothing was stuck under the scraper either and it was from the rounded corner digging in too hard.
 

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Hell I couldn't find my scraper last weekend so I used the (plastic) edge of a diamond stone. <shrug>
 

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Make sure your perspex scraper is rounded at the ends to prevent the tips becoming a potential stab risk. You can use a box cutter razor blade to skim across the perspex to make sure there are no imperfections/cutts with the scrapers edge.


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I use 5mm perspex that I get from the plastic suppliers. I just get a piece of scrap they throw out (free) and I can cut around 10 x scrapers on the bandsaw. I make the scrapers bigger for my hands 170mm x 120mm. You wear down the shorter edge with sharpening so I only go down to around 80 - 90mm and then get a new one. The bigger scraper makes it easier to control. I keep the scraper at forward lean and pull it forward across the base . Don't work to aggressive and fast. A sharp scraper will make the job so must quicker and easier.

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Keep the scraper sharp at 90 degrees. You will need to sharpen every board as the edges dull off quick. I have a ToKo sharpener but prefer to use a bastard file set down in the woodworking vice and I can drag the perspex scraper along the file to reinstall a crisp edge.


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The damge to your board is very very minimal. A re wax will take out the discoloration. If you want to be mega OTT you can ptex the spots. Your board will be riding fast over the ground so it will get a few marks over time. I use a large surfboard mesh sanding block 120 grit (300 x100mm) that I run over the base and it is like a leveller taking out any marks/p tex highs and brings base back pretty good.
 

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I use a large surfboard mesh sanding block 120 grit (300 x100mm) that I run over the base and it is like a leveller taking out any marks/p tex highs and brings base back pretty good.
Cool. is that just like a sanding sponge like for drywall, or mesh sanding paper on a block?
 

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You buy them from the surfboard manufacturer suppliers (that is in Australia). It uses velcro to stick the velcro backed gauze fabric sanding sheets to them. It's what they use to shape surfboard blanks out off. This pad has a 2 sided hard and soft backed block (yellow soft/blue striped firm).

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Mine were rounded and no imperfections, just must have scraped too hard on a spot I missed with wax. :eek: oh well. The scrapes don't bother me but the tiny gouges I am worried about being deep.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I wouldn't worry about it. In time your board will need a base grind and that spot will vanish.

Edit: After a few rides I guarantee you'll have worse marks on the base.
already have a gouge from day 1 today 😎, fucking ice coast lmao
yeah a base grind eventually, but there's not many shops around and I'll probably have to show them how to grind a 3BT board
 
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