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Discussion Starter #1
Hey, after 1 ride on my newly waxed board (shop did it), I noticed some of those ''grey-whitish strands'' on the right side of my board's base. These typically indicate that wax is needed.

My question is.. already??

Is this the result of botchy shop work? Or from heavy riding?

The snow conditions were perfect, fresh real snow.

My board is brand new, does this mean I have to wax it like 2-3 times before I actually take it out since it takes a couple of waxings to properly absorb?

Thx!!
 

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Where you riding a lot on your toe or heel edge, whichever one had that dryness? If you're falling leave down a hill all day, your heel edge is going to do what you described.

But most likely it's just going to take some riding and some waxing to get the wax to absorb good. And shops usually don't use the best wax ever, just so you know.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I just checked and it's actually pretty even on both sides. The marks are at the tail side, right next to the binding. I literally race down the hill so that's probably why it gets used up faster.

Yeah I guessed that shops might not use the best stuff. That's why I bought my own iron and wax. Are you saying that I should wax more at the beginning since it's a new board?

Plus, my board is actually 2 yrs old (got it in a warehouse). Factory wax already being shit, it was even 2 yrs old. I Was not at all aware that waxing was needed on a new board. So I rode it for about 5-6 runs on the most abrasive snow ever. Chunks of ice the size of your thumb pretty much. (freezing rain the previous day :p). So yeah the board was hardcore scratched. Looked flawless with a good coat of wax after though so I don't think I damaged it (fckin hope not)

Doesn't seem damaged though, it handles great.

How easy is it to damage a base?

My concern was just the wax not staying the intended ''3-4 runs''.

Can u damage the base when riding on that ''white hairs stuff''?? like it almost seems pointless to wax cause it's not that apparent, but yet, sides are the most important parts.

Sry for the mouthful of questions and thx in advance!! ;)!!
 

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The fuck am I doing awake still?!

But no your not going to hurt your board... It's not really "good" for it, but your not going to cause some irreversible damage by not keep it perfectly waxed at all times.

If you were riding on some conditions that you didn't have the proper wax for, then your wax will tear off faster. Waxes have specific temp ranges, and they mean it... I can notice distinct differences in the "glide" of my board when I have the proper temp of wax applied, and when I don't, and even when my wax is getting worn off.

So I wouldn't stress about it too much man... Just keep the fibers to a minimum with waxing and have fun. As far as I know you could actually just wax along the edges that are dry and not have to wax the entire board as often.

Oh and different bases will hold wax for longer then others.... Bataleon is exceptionally bad for holding wax, not sure what you're riding.

Get either One Ball Jay or Bluebird waxes for your board. And I know OBJ sells a "graphite" wax you can mix into your waxes if you really want to haul balls. I run the proper wax for the temp and I go as fast as I care to go without the dam graphite.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
sick man thx a lot!! ur very informed!!

Nitro Pantera is what I have. Really stiff n fckin fast I love it, sick board!!

I'm not sure what my wax is but I paid 35$ for it, big pink brick, all weather. (bought it at Empire Skate-Snow shop, dunno if u guys have that in the States)

Again thx for staying awake ahaha!!

I'm reassured now!!
 

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with your issue, i can only come up with 3 explanations:

1- the wax u used was some cheap shit.
2- u didnt let the wax cool enough before you scraped it off ( assuming you hot-waxed it )

and the most probable explanation:

3- the wax u used was meant for a higher temp range for ex. 21-30 degrees, but the actual temp u were riding in was in the teens.

The warmer wax u use on a colder day, will result in the wax being stripped away instantly by the colder snow. Always use colder wax than expected:thumbsup:
 

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I thought it was the other way around, colder wax was softer to melt propperly in the colder temps and keep the water film in place and would wear off faster in warmer temps?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thx Polonia!!

I'll make sure to keep track of that for future waxings!!

Do you know where I can buy a package of good wax bars (3 diff temps)??

Ebay is one but any other suggestions?
 

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I thought it was the other way around, colder wax was softer to melt propperly in the colder temps and keep the water film in place and would wear off faster in warmer temps?
Nope u got it half right...cold wax for cold temps and snow & warm wax for warm temps and for warm snow such as spring snow.



Thx Polonia!!

I'll make sure to keep track of that for future waxings!!

Do you know where I can buy a package of good wax bars (3 diff temps)??

Ebay is one but any other suggestions?
I use SWIX wax and i just bought it from their website.
U have 2 basic waxes : Hydrocarbons & fluorocarbons.
Hydros r cheaper but they r still reliable. Fluoros are a little faster and more durable

If ur learning how to wax then get the hydro wax it will still do u good.

there are also hi-humitidty & lo-humidity waxes.
hi-hum wax is used for hi-hum snow where its easy to make a snowball
lo-hum wax is used for lo-hum snow where the snow is really cold and has no moisture in it and its really hard to make a snowball.
usually for spring, u want to use hi-hum since it rains in the spring time right?

but that getting too much in detail.
get the hydrocarbon wax and make sure its colder than the ectual temp ur riding in and ull be fine for 3-6 runs!!
 

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I just checked and it's actually pretty even on both sides. The marks are at the tail side, right next to the binding. I literally race down the hill so that's probably why it gets used up faster.

Yeah I guessed that shops might not use the best stuff. That's why I bought my own iron and wax. Are you saying that I should wax more at the beginning since it's a new board?

Plus, my board is actually 2 yrs old (got it in a warehouse). Factory wax already being shit, it was even 2 yrs old. I Was not at all aware that waxing was needed on a new board. So I rode it for about 5-6 runs on the most abrasive snow ever. Chunks of ice the size of your thumb pretty much. (freezing rain the previous day :p). So yeah the board was hardcore scratched. Looked flawless with a good coat of wax after though so I don't think I damaged it (fckin hope not)

Doesn't seem damaged though, it handles great.

How easy is it to damage a base?

My concern was just the wax not staying the intended ''3-4 runs''.

Can u damage the base when riding on that ''white hairs stuff''?? like it almost seems pointless to wax cause it's not that apparent, but yet, sides are the most important parts.

Sry for the mouthful of questions and thx in advance!! ;)!!
if it was stored unused in a warehouse for 2 yrs with just factory wax on it and it was in a dry and warm environment, like through the summer, the base may have dried out a bit, thus the white streaks. do a couple of hot wax jobs on it and you should be fine (i.e. don't strip the old wax off it with base cleaner between waxings). as i understand it, with repeated hot waxings and not base cleaning between waxings, you are imbedding the wax deeper into the pores in the structure of the base. it's a good thing to strip off all the old wax at some point in time though, because dirt and grit will also get imbedded in there but you don't have to do that often if you're not riding through a lot of crud.

in the future, leave a coat of wax on the base when you store it for the summer and store it in a cool environment so it doesn't dry out again. i don't think there's anything wrong with your base, it's just very dry at the moment.

fyi, the pantera is nitro's premier big mountain board so it has their top-of-the-line sintered base on it - a sintered base is as hard and dense as it gets so you aren't likely to scratch it unless you tapped a sharp rock, and it's very fast because it's also very porous at the same time so it can absorb and hold far more wax than it's cheaper extruded counterpart, but the trade-off is that it's more expensive and it requires more maintenance than an extruded base in the form of more regular waxings and difficult repairs. that's my take.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thank you all immensely!!! This forum rocks!!

Beats the crap out of Yahoo Answers any day hahah

thx again!!
 
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