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Discussion Starter #1
I was having heel drag issues on a board with a 253mm waist width. I sold that board and bought one with a 258mm width. After mounting my bindings and trying to center them the best I could get when I strapped in my boots was about 2 inches of overhang on the heel side and an inch on the toe side. From what I understand I need to get them centered and don't want more than an inch on either side, so I would want a board 1-1.5" wider? So that would put me at 261-262mm waist width?

I was told I'd be alright on a normal width board, and I'd figured I'd definitely be alright on a mid-wide board but it looks like I might need something that's full on wide. I wear a size 11 K2 Maysis. I am size 12 in some other brands so I think it might be that K2 boots run big and/or the boots don't have a reduced footprint (I don't know).
 

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I was having heel drag issues on a board with a 253mm waist width. I sold that board and bought one with a 258mm width. After mounting my bindings and trying to center them the best I could get when I strapped in my boots was about 2 inches of overhang on the heel side and an inch on the toe side. From what I understand I need to get them centered and don't want more than an inch on either side, so I would want a board 1-1.5" wider? So that would put me at 261-262mm waist width?

I was told I'd be alright on a normal width board, and I'd figured I'd definitely be alright on a mid-wide board but it looks like I might need something that's full on wide. I wear a size 11 K2 Maysis. I am size 12 in some other brands so I think it might be that K2 boots run big and/or the boots don't have a reduced footprint (I don't know).
You can always change the angle of your bindings to a "duck
stance" allowing you to fit better on shorter waisted boards. Also lets you ride switch more comfortably.
 

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There are trade offs when you increase/decrease board width. Ideally you want to stay as narrow as possible. Too wide and you lose leverage over the edges and can make for long days of foot fatigue. How much overhang you can tolerate will be determined by the conditions you ride.
 

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There are trade offs when you increase/decrease board width. Ideally you want to stay as narrow as possible. Too wide and you lose leverage over the edges and can make for long days of foot fatigue. How much overhang you can tolerate will be determined by the conditions you ride.
Well said.
 

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You have to also take into consideration that say a waist width that is the same on two different boards will probably have different width at the inserts unless they are the exact same shape. I guess what I am trying to say is that a board that has a 261mm waist could have the same width at the inserts as a board with a 259-260mm waist. Which is why I think companies should list the width at the inserts to give riders a better idea of what will work for their boot size. You could roughly calculate this using the specs they give, but it would be nice if they just listed it.
 

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You have to also take into consideration that say a waist width that is the same on two different boards will probably have different width at the inserts unless they are the exact same shape. I guess what I am trying to say is that a board that has a 261mm waist could have the same width at the inserts as a board with a 259-260mm waist. Which is why I think companies should list the width at the inserts to give riders a better idea of what will work for their boot size. You could roughly calculate this using the specs they give, but it would be nice if they just listed it.
A board with a 7.5 sidecut varies 4mm from the first set of inserts to the last. Most models change sidecut radius as they change length. Then you have to consider tapered or directional shaped boards. The back foot could have 2-3mm more overhang than the front. That's a lot of work, and probably not necessary because 'perfect' waist width is subjective to begin with.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You can always change the angle of your bindings to a "duck
stance" allowing you to fit better on shorter waisted boards. Also lets you ride switch more comfortably.
I'm at +12, -9 right now and I like that a lot. I've gone out as far as +15, -15 but I only like riding that wide when I'm riding park.

There are trade offs when you increase/decrease board width. Ideally you want to stay as narrow as possible. Too wide and you lose leverage over the edges and can make for long days of foot fatigue. How much overhang you can tolerate will be determined by the conditions you ride.
Yeah that makes sense, my main concern is that I can't get the bindings properly centered. I don't have any more room to go towards the toe edge without going over and I still have an inch more overhang heelside than toeside.
 

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A board with a 7.5 sidecut varies 4mm from the first set of inserts to the last. Most models change sidecut radius as they change length. Then you have to consider tapered or directional shaped boards. The back foot could have 2-3mm more overhang than the front. That's a lot of work, and probably not necessary because 'perfect' waist width is subjective to begin with.
Exactly, so people should not be dead set on a certain waist width...especially when you are talking about it down to millimeters.
 

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What kind of bindings do you have?
Was just about to ask the same question, if there is an adjustment for the heelcup to move forward, I would move it up a notch. If not, try turning the disks so that the holes run perpendicular to the board edge and screw them down where they are closest to center. May lose some stance width fine tuning but it is better to be centered.

After you have them centered, put the board on the floor with the boots strapped in and see what kind of angles you can tilt the board before the toe/heel will catch. 60 degrees or so should be good for about everything you do.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I've got 2013 Cartel Re:Flex's and 2013 Rome Mob Bosses

I've run into the issue on both sets of bindings. The Cartels are a unibody so I can't adjust the heelcup and the smallness of the reflex disc makes it difficult to center. The Rome is a little better but I still can't get it centered because on both bindings the toe ramp would come over the edge of the board if I move it forward any more.

Edit: And for reference my stance is the second set of screws in. As in one screw outward from the narrowest setting on either side. I think it was 21" or 22" the last time I measured it.
 
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