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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Diving in to directional boards after riding true twins almost exclusively for years. The current version of Custom/CustomX has 12.5mm of setback. Does this mean the reference stance is placed back from being centered with sidecut?

Honestly, not something that's ever really crossed my mind before. I tried searching for an answer and can't find a clear answer either way about reference vs centered stances in general. Some conflicting information actually so hopefully someone can offer a definitive answer on the subject.
 

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Please don't dive into the world of directional boards with a Custom or Custom X 🤦🏻‍♂️

That's like experimenting with spice for the first time by adding some fresh ground black pepper to a meal.

Get a DC Supernatant, Niche Maelstrom, Nitro Fusion, Rome Blur, Burton Hometown Hero, Ride Berzerker.

Something with a bit of setback and taper. You will not feel the 12.5mm setback on a Custom or Custom X. Please, try something that is actually directional.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks snowdaddy

Phedder - I hear what you're saying since the only thing directional on the Custom is shape - longer nose than tail (flex is symmetrical, no taper). Hence, Burton calls it a directional twin. That said moving bindings forward 12.5mm from reference centers up with sidecut like a true twin.
 

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Same thing we all want, the holy grail one board quiver
:cool:
Then I'd take any of those I listed over a Custom or Custom X. A bit of setback and taper is your friend, and like Snow Hound said, it's really not hard to ride those boards switch if you're competent at switch.

Now if you're an actual park rat and legitimately spend 50% or more of your day in there, then yeah Custom is a good option for sure. Just be honest with yourself about how often you actually need optimal switch performance, or if good enough will cover it. I know I'm not charging down double blacks switch, but I'll comfortably pick my way down a regular black switch on any of those, and then charge the double black riding regular. As earlier, a bit of set back and taper really helps there.
 

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Same thing we all want, the holy grail one board quiver
:cool:
I'm not sure many of us on here have a one board quiver. I've got several boards, and they're all directional. There's performance gains to be found in taper and setback. If I did have a holy grail one board quiver, it would be very directional. I really like having a quiver though. No board is ideal in all conditions and demands. Ducks can fly, walk and swim but they kinda suck at all three.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
...The current version of Custom/CustomX has 12.5mm of setback. Does this mean the reference stance is placed back from being centered with sidecut?
Custom being twin flex, would this be set at the reference stance (i.e. setback) or centered?

Edit: For anyone interested. The answer to above is twin flex at reference. By centering stance its no long twin flex (tip stiffer than tail / reverse directional flex[?]).
 

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Any other recommendations for directional quiver killers?
Gnu Mullair is up there if you want stiff like a Custom X. Lib Ejack for something a little more forgiving.

But just get a Blur. It's the funnest. I'd cry for weeks giving up my true twins but if I had to ride just one board for the rest of my life it would be a Blur.
 

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Gnu Mullair is up there if you want stiff like a Custom X. Lib Ejack for something a little more forgiving.

But just get a Blur. It's the funnest. I'd cry for weeks giving up my true twins but if I had to ride just one board for the rest of my life it would be a Blur.

If anyone rides a smaller board...

 

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Any other recommendations for directional quiver killers?
Really depends on the overall ride 'Feel' someone likes too. Those I listed are a bit more on the 'charger' side of things. More freeride than freestyle, but all very capable for freestyle as long as the rider is as well...

Ride Warpig is a quiver killer for sure for someone not into riding steep technical terrain fast. Not enough edge hold or sidecut to truly perform there, but everywhere else it won't let you down. Never Summer, Lib and Gnu all have a few good options if you prefer the looser CRC feel and damper ride qualities.

The main thing I said above is having some kind of set back and taper to help optimise your preferred riding direction. I think more people need to be honest with how much switch performance they actually need. You can ride any board switch, but how likely are you to go down that double black switch? If it's for riding switch on a cat track or wide blue run or some mellow park jumps and features, and then the majority of your more serious riding is done riding regular, set back and taper have more benefits than cons in my mind. Why optimise the board you ride for 20% of the riding you actually do? Get something that will optimise the main 80% but not heavily impede that 20%

Throwing out some random numbers, but anything under 15mm taper and say 25mm set back really shouldn't throw you off riding switch that much, but will heavily benefit most of your regular riding.
 

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I had set up my directional twin board (2019 signal omni) for someone that rides regular and forgot to swap it back even though they never ended up riding it. It felt really off to me till I realized what I'd done. I ended up riding it mostly regular that day and even attempted to go down a few black runs regular. Mostly gave up halfway down when I started encountering ice because riding goofy without the benefit of the longer nose section was still easier.

Was a good exercise though!

But also, I realized that it was a dumb thing to do because it's an EST board and I could have just slid the bindings forward or back lol.
 
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