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Hi, So I recently ordered wax and all the necessary tools needed to wax my board in an effort to reduce cost. I set the iron to 140 degrees Fahrenheit and it wouldn't melt. So I made the temperature higher until it melted. However, when it landed on the board it turned into like frozen wax circles and weren't still wet. I thought this was normal and continued the steps. I dont think however that it actually got any wax on the board because my board looked nothing like the videos. My question today is if its ok to use the base wax remover (DEMON 7000 Spray) to remove the wax even though I put it on the night before or if it will hurt the board? I dont think there is a lot of wax in the pores anyway. HOPE SOMEONE COULD HELP PLEASE. AND MERRY CHRISTMAS!!

BTW IM USING DEMON HYPER-X ALL TEMP WAX

-Nate
 

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Base wax remover won’t hurt the board.

But maybe the wax didn’t melt? Sometimes I think people worry about burning the base. If the wax isn’t melted the base isn’t hot enough to burn it and injure it.
 

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You have to melt the wax (ie liquid) into the pores of the ptex. Sintered base gives you far far far more pores than what extruded does. 140F is only 60C...., way too cold. I run at 120C and chalk it on spreading it thinly over the base and then melting this into the base. You move the iron around the base working the liquid wax into the dry area's. Don't keep the iron in the one place too long. It's a technique that requires a little bit of practice. You sound like you need a bit of advice in relation to waxing as well as watch a few tutorials.
 

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The most important tool you need after waxing is a sharp scrapper. I sharpen after every board. You want a crisp 90 degree edge. It makes scrapping so much quicker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You have to melt the wax (ie liquid) into the pores of the ptex. Sintered base gives you far far far more pores than what extruded does. 140F is only 60C...., way too cold. I run at 120C and chalk it on spreading it thinly over the base and then melting this into the base. You move the iron around the base working the liquid wax into the dry area's. Don't keep the iron in the one place too long. It's a technique that requires a little bit of practice. You sound like you need a bit of advice in relation to waxing as well as watch a few tutorials.
thanks very helpful :D
 

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You need to let the wax settle back down to room temperature. Scrapping straight after waxing is good for cleaning the dirt out off the base but not for use on the mountain.
 

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Hi, So I recently ordered wax and all the necessary tools needed to wax my board in an effort to reduce cost. I set the iron to 140 degrees Fahrenheit and it wouldn't melt. So I made the temperature higher until it melted. However, when it landed on the board it turned into like frozen wax circles and weren't still wet. I thought this was normal and continued the steps. I dont think however that it actually got any wax on the board because my board looked nothing like the videos. My question today is if its ok to use the base wax remover (DEMON 7000 Spray) to remove the wax even though I put it on the night before or if it will hurt the board? I dont think there is a lot of wax in the pores anyway. HOPE SOMEONE COULD HELP PLEASE. AND MERRY CHRISTMAS!!

BTW IM USING DEMON HYPER-X ALL TEMP WAX

-Nate
The first problem is 140 degrees Fahrenheit won't melt it. Wrong unit of measure. You should be using Celsius, but 140 Deg C is too high for all-temp wax. A good starting point is 130 deg C for all-temp wax.

Hot wax landing on a cold board, of course, the wax will immediately solidify. That is why you work the iron and the hot wax into the base, heating up the polyethylene material to open up and absorb the wax

Cleaning the base, do a hot-scrape, where after you apply the wax, while the wax is still hot, scrape off the wax. Use the base cleaner that Demon supplies for cleaning your scraper or for spot cleaning to prep an area for p-tex candle repairs

The best video imo, for how to wax:

also good is:

P.S. If melting the wax is not as easy as the videos above show it to be, then you're base is probably not flat. It's probably concaved, which unfortunately most of my boards suffer from this. Then in that case, work a section at a time, to get the wax in, adding another drip or so of wax for the areas that you don't see the melted wax on the base.
 

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Lol! According to these vids,.. I probably shouldn't risk a trip down the mountain on my poorly & improperly waxed decks. ?

Honestly,... I am soooo lazy. I crayon wax, iron it in then buff with a scrubby and that's it. ?‍♂

Somehow I still manage to slide sideways! ????

-edit-
...nothing wrong with the whole Zen, wax on, wax off thing! Just not absolutely necessary. More of a personal board/rider relationship decision thing. ???
 

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Lol! According to these vids,.. I probably shouldn't risk a trip down the mountain on my poorly & improperly waxed decks.

Honestly,... I am soooo lazy. I crayon wax, iron it in then buff with a scrubby and that's it.

Somehow I still manage to slide sideways!

-edit-
...nothing wrong with the whole Zen, wax on, wax off thing! Just not absolutely necessary. More of a personal board/rider relationship decision thing.
At least you're a step ahead of the people that advocate to don't bother scraping

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
 

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Don't bother scraping, waste of time.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
And brushing is a waste unless you use unicorn hair.

Also make sure you get a board with massive pores to really get was to absorb in to your base....

People would be shocked to discover how everything they think and know is actually completely false, placebo, or the result of something completely different.
 

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And brushing is a waste unless you use unicorn hair.

Also make sure you get a board with massive pores to really get was to absorb in to your base....

People would be shocked to discover how everything they think and know is actually completely false, placebo, or the result of something completely different.
Table Writing Photo caption Job


-edit-
...I don't remember where I saw it, but my first season I remember reading somewhere where you weren't supposed to brush black board bases, because it created static buildup & caused the board to go slower on the snow. ??

Maybe I read that on TGR! ?‍♂??
 

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This is my 2nd season after joining the no scrape crew, and life is just simpler, having 6 boards,I have way more time to drink beers now, and with this midwest man made snow we ride on, the base looks scraped after like the 3rd run.
 

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View attachment 151750

-edit-
...I don't remember where I saw it, but my first season I remember reading somewhere where you weren't supposed to brush black board bases, because it created static buildup & caused the board to go slower on the snow. ??

Maybe I read that on TGR! ?‍♂??
Black bases is basically the same stuff as the clear polyethylene base, but it has a black dye added to it. If you are worried about the static buildup from brushing with a nylon or a Scotch-bright pad, finish it off with some brushing using a horse-hair brush, as it will neutralize the static buildup.

Some people want as much glide as possible, especially when going across traverses, which sometimes can be uphill... minimize the need to walk as much as possible.
 
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