Snowboarding Forum - Snowboard Enthusiast Forums banner

21 - 40 of 51 Posts

·
Not quite reformed yet
Joined
·
8,442 Posts
The wax I have doesn't drip, however you have to crayon and/or hot-smear it on, then run the iron over it to get the wax into the base.

See: https://youtu.be/4eZ7QmJuX6I?t=371



I think he's paranoid about damaging the base with excessive heat.
...OP should watch this to see just how much deliberate dumbassery needs to occur before you ruin the base! ;) :laugh:

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
Ive seen them, i think angry got some knowledge, and he also doesnt believe in hotwaxing, which includes crayoning then. Crayoning seems better to me concerning the issue that the heat from the iron alters the resin in the board since it takes less heat to melt a thinner layer of wax. So gonna try it, and also might keep the offscrape if i do a trad waxjob midseason.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
872 Posts
Yup, paranoid. The cold temp wax require 150 degrees c it says on the box, The all temp 125. Tried it once and at point the wax melted the topsheet was pretty warm and the inserts were visable though the ptex and it didnt feel good. Was also a pain to scrape of. I feel cold temp wax is for cross country skiing and unneccesary for snowboarding, but ill try crayoning it before giving it to someone, then try paraffin wax next time i guess.
Warm topsheet is fine. As long as you keep the iron moving and when the top sheet is warm, that area is done.

Cold wax is harder, so if you get a lot of base burn by the edges, cold wax specifically in that region is a good thing.

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,706 Posts
...OP should watch this to see just how much deliberate dumbassery needs to occur before you ruin the base! ;) :laugh:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=lzefBTFpiw0

Friendly tip:
Do not breathe-in burnt snowboard base fumes :)

Also... yes, you can reuse wax.

Also... crayon method actually INCREASES the risk of you burning your base. There is less wax on the base from a thinner layer, yes; but that's less wax to take the heat from the iron and more heat actually going to heating your base.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,466 Posts
Friendly tip:
Do not breathe-in burnt snowboard base fumes :)

Also... yes, you can reuse wax.

Also... crayon method actually INCREASES the risk of you burning your base. There is less wax on the base from a thinner layer, yes; but that's less wax to take the heat from the iron and more heat actually going to heating your base.
So how much crayon waxing life is left in my board from 2007, like another 30 years instead of 70 if I always did a drip method?

I wouldn't worry to much about less wax taking the heat as my board is still fine and the iron I did all those years of waxing had ho heat control and would smoke wax like Snoop on a blunt.

But also isn't heating the base what your supposed to be doing to open the pores...So if your theory is correct wouldn't it require less heating time having less wax?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,706 Posts
So how much crayon waxing life is left in my board from 2007, like another 30 years instead of 70 if I always did a drip method?

I wouldn't worry to much about less wax taking the heat as my board is still fine and the iron I did all those years of waxing had ho heat control and would smoke wax like Snoop on a blunt.

But also isn't heating the base what your supposed to be doing to open the pores...So if your theory is correct wouldn't it require less heating time having less wax?
RISK. Increased risk.
You're talking base life.... I wrote nothing about that. There is absolutely no difference in board life from one method over the other, provided you don't burn the base at some point. It only takes once to burn it...

So the theory is you need less time at the same temperature (ie. less energy) to heat up the base when you have less wax (less mass). This theory is correct, no ifs about it. But this theory is not mine. I wish! :D

In short: things will get hotter in a shorter time when you have less wax = increased RISK of burning the base.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,263 Posts
Yeah, most of the scraped wax ends up on the board, so I could easily just sweep it into a plastic bag and not to the floor. But it`s been sitting in my basement for months maybe collecting dust and dirt, so I threw the wax away.

You only wax half the board?


HAHA No I don't just wax half the board:dry:

I drip wax from the hot iron on half on the base.
When that's all melted , I put the Iron down & quickly do a few long scrapes & pull all that dry, but still warm wax down to the other half of the board.

Then when the whole thing is done there's not a lot of wax left over.
Once you do it a few times, you figure out just the right amount.

So you barely use any, with no waste:surprise:


TT


Ghetto wax job
Or use a blowtorch, heat up your block so it's nice & soft, but not dripping, then crayon it on.
Then a quick blast with the flame.
You can see the wax melt, that's when you stop.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
872 Posts




HAHA No I don't just wax half the board:dry:



I drip wax from the hot iron on half on the base.

When that's all melted , I put the Iron down & quickly do a few long scrapes & pull all that dry, but still warm wax down to the other half of the board.



Then when the whole thing is done there's not a lot of wax left over.

Once you do it a few times, you figure out just the right amount.



So you barely use any, with no waste:surprise:





TT





Ghetto wax job

Or use a blowtorch, heat up your block so it's nice & soft, but not dripping, then crayon it on.

Then a quick blast with the flame.

You can see the wax melt, that's when you stop.
You're hot scraping the board, to clean the base. You're not allowing cooling time for the pores to close up and trap the wax within the pores

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,272 Posts
and in the mean time...waiting for snow opening...just wax and whine
I waxed 3 boards already waiting for le snow. Crayon + iron. Super quick and pretty much no mess.
Been doing tuning for about a decade and this is the best most economical way to wax a base especially when using more expensive fluro based waxes where you don't want wastage. It enables you to basically smear a thin layer of softened heated wax over base as it comes off the iron before you work it completely into the pores of sintered/extruded base.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,706 Posts
Been doing tuning for about a decade and this is the best most economical way to wax a base especially when using more expensive fluro based waxes where you don't want wastage. It enables you to basically smear a thin layer of softened heated wax over base as it comes off the iron before you work it completely into the pores of sintered/extruded base.
I've never used fluoro wax. But maybe I will start once my wax block is finished. It's a small $ difference when you think of how long you will be using the wax block for... a couple of seasons at least.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,272 Posts
Been doing tuning for about a decade and this is the best most economical way to wax a base especially when using more expensive fluro based waxes where you don't want wastage. It enables you to basically smear a thin layer of softened heated wax over base as it comes off the iron before you work it completely into the pores of sintered/extruded base.
I've never used fluoro wax. But maybe I will start once my wax block is finished. It's a small $ difference when you think of how long you will be using the wax blocuk for... a couple of seasons at least.
Only use LF as this is expensive enough for us here in Australia. I've had to import it in the past but Amazon Au is now stocking FC739 with free delivery from US with prime. It's a bit under twice the price of standard wax but when calculated out it's only a couple of dollars extra per wax. Definitely worth it in my experience. Super quick.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,263 Posts
You're hot scraping the board, to clean the base. You're not allowing cooling time for the pores to close up and trap the wax within the pores

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
I don't give it a pro scrape when it's only half done. lol
Just pull most of the excess down to the bare end.
Then go over the whole thing again.

It's just so I don't waste so much wax


TT
 
21 - 40 of 51 Posts
Top