I do have a question: You are a big guy. What advantages does a tiny board such as yours offer? My kid weighs less than 45 kg and her board has about the same effective edge.
They would have told you that at any Pureboarding camp in the last twelve years or so. (Although they might have added it's not worth bothering with moving parts, just get the 6° wedge and be done with it.)I just ordered one of these cant plates for my rear binding thinking it might deliver more power to the rear heel.
You're probably thinking of the Swoard guys. They're very big on riding flat.Doesn't Joerg and his crew ride flat ?
I found that all I need for carving is board width, my 1m of effective edge has far more edge hold than my body can deal with at the moment so I have no reason to go longer.
I have a feeling that, like a nice carve at the flat end of a run, this thread might just come full circle.So short edges work well for soft conditions and high speed riding but when it's really firm more edge and less width is beneficial for sure
Not sure if I understand you correctly. But it looks to me like you are saying: "If your technique is good enough for difficult conditions, you should get another board for easier conditions, because your technique is probably not good enough for those."So taking too much edge to a piste that is providing a healthy dose of traction is unnecessary, kind of like chopping an onion with a machete, its over kill and you might just cut your finger in the process.
Entertainment, mostly. Two years ago, when this thread started and the "extremely short wide board" was presented as the surprising solution to carving (along with body movements which were rather hard to explain), I was wondering ifHave a good think about your reasons
Truer words were never written.People come in here to talk about or think about abstract ideas related to carving,
I thought this was a discussion, not an agreeing contest. I believe you said (at least you couldn't be bothered to enlighten me otherwise, instead choosing to chastize me about the quality of my “energy”) that one should get a special board for those rare days when conditions are nice enough that anyone halfway competent could carve on their toilet door. In case I haven’t made myself clear:Quit it with the negative vibes please Aracan.
If your first board is a GS board with an 18 cm waist, then by all means get another board for those mellower days. If your first board is a modern slalom board, or an all-around alpine board, or anything meant to be ridden in softboots, chances are it is plenty mellow. And if anyone still insists that you need a “mellow” board, you might justifiably ask yourself why. Especially if it involves a faulty comparison with edged weapons.I think of it as more “bring the right board for the conditions.”
It has happened, although not while carving. That must be why Hula-Hoops are the new weapon of choice. Much safer all around.I think you’d cut yourself with any board.
In a nutshell, both. But my rear angle is a given resulting from boot size and board width. With my boards I cannot go lower than 40° and still avoid overhang. I have been told by experienced riders with smaller feet that an even lower angle is beneficial.Do you think it's more splay or a more square rear foot that adds power to toe turns?
Like creating that same splay by reducing the rear angle instead would probably make more people feel a stronger toe turn.
I may be picturing this wrong, but it sounds like you are advocating the advantages of counter-rotation for toeside turns.When you do a toe turn with rotated upper body your hips are at 90 degrees to the board instead of parallel, and this allows you to get weight over the toe edge in a new way and I'm finding it to be very effective.