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Nice excuse but unfortunately I am not accepting it :grin:
You can do it easy if you rotate and squat
I woke up this morning, tried to stretch and sat my ass on the ground. I could not reach my trail arm across my chest to touch the ground. I have Trex arms :(

I definitely get low enough on my turns but I just keep my trail arm off the snow lol.

Another thing my little arms cant do is reach my front edge while doing a heelside turn. It just doesn't work :crying:

...but I'm ok with it...

These problems pale in comparison to my issues in cycling... long torso and stubby limbs are a nightmare when it comes to proper bike fit. Wound up having a custom frame built
 

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I don’t care about stiffness as much as dampness. DaveyDampShoes over here. My knees and back are shot and I need help from my board to absorb big hits so I don’t have to tweak my back and pinch my sciatic nerve. I could and do ride lively boards but I need to go slower to observe and mitigate the terrain. High speed I prefer damp.
 

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I had a chat with Mats at Stranda snowboards. From what I remember his philosophy was that a long soft board with a long effective edge and a long turning radius can be flexed into a shorter turning radius when you want to, and still have the longer radius for more drawn out turns. But then he's also made the boards with a shorter sidecut radius as well.

Personally, without being a board designer, I don't think there's a simple right or wrong in bord design.
While I don’t have any boards with Standa proportions I can say this 100% is the truth. Centerflex a board and you get a tighter radius.
 

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Don't put the board in fisrt place, it's a passenger.
...so yes?

I’m not disagreeing with your theories toward carving. Reason I ask is different boards behave differently. That’s not an opinion. So different movements will affect different boards differently. The board is the variable not the movements.

I think a better relationship than driver/ car/ trailer would be a person riding a bicycle. You are the driver and the engine and the bike is the machine. You can can “do” most things on most bikes but they behave better when the driver adapts to it’s inherent behaviors.
 

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@Kijima The more I think about the more the hula hoop makes sense. I think my issue with it is that I’m having trouble picturing it. By that I mean I took your map to mean a physical location in movement. Now I’m viewing it as a weight transfer...I believe I in fact already use movements similar to your map. In my head it’s just a different image. My mental imagery is more of weighting corners on a square through a circular movement. I will be trying your map out over the weekend and be more present in thought (although I find when I ride “less is more” in terms of thinking through my turns). My next question is what turn shapes are you going for here and what type of trail are you executing this on? To me I see nice C carves that need some room/time to complete and properly link. Obviously that isn’t going to work on all pitch and trail widths, no? If what your saying is what I’m now thinking then turns out not only do I mostly agree - but we’re talking about my favorite turns!
 

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@Paxford you have it wrong, I don’t find it complicated at all. It’s very simple. Which was my point. No doubt @Kijima is on to something here and the results are really looking great but there are many ways to make “perfect” flowing carves. If you guys disagree with that then you’ve probably got the wrong hobby...
 

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@Kijima
Today I had some wide open groomers with hero snow. It was great. I put the hula hoop into effect and it was a good time. The biggest difference I notice over my default carving movements is during the beginning of the toe side turn. It’s much more of a snap feeling opposed to a lean in a drive feeling. The board transitions from the heel edge to the toe edge more abruptly. I’m not sure I’m satisfied with my description there but for now it will do lol. It almost feels like a Scandinavian flick. I’ve turned this way before but it was fun to intentionally switch between my default movement and the hula hoop movement and enjoy the different sensations I could generate. I’m definitely going to continue to play with this and add it into my riding.

I was out on my tapered directional cambered board which is “off the back foot” or “surfy”. I know you’re a believer that the board is the smallest piece in the puzzle and for the most part I agree - but I think having a shorter tail helps get the board over with your weight back. As for taper, jury is still out for me!
 

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@Paxford

I watched that video, Aaron's perspective sort of reminds me of Grant Peterson's (bridgestone and then rivendell) approach to mtn biking. Riding through terrain and picking your line at a slow pace on fully rigid bike instead of dominating and charging over it on a full suspension bike. I like Yoder's approach to a quiver and find mine built out under a similar philosophy. Its good to have a charger and also a 2nd - 3rd gear board. Different boards for different days/moods.

Having ridden in the @Kijima method in "hula hoop" movements for a few full days on my Gnu SPAM (tapered directional flex with a big rockered nose and camber under foot) I realize aside from it being pretty similar to something I've been doing for quite some time - its not a method I'd use in all situations. Its definitely a nice way to carve but probably not how I'd go about carving when I'm "charging". Thats a much more aggressive movement initiating off the front foot to engage the whole edge. Initiating a toeside off the back foot doesn't engage the front portion of the edge as theres no weight on it in the beginning of a carve when you need it. On the East Coast, where I ride most of the time, more speed requires more of the edge engaged if you want to carve hard. Most onlookers wouldn't notice much difference in the look of the turns but its a very different exercise.

When I'm riding I'm more focused on the direction my shoulders are facing/rotating than my hand movements. I find that if I place my shoulders where I want them then I'll naturally "eagle wing" or "wax off". Might not be as pretty of a motion though. I'll occasionally notice my arms getting sloppy, so maybe a shift in thinking would change that.


In short, for the most part I agree with the both of you and your perspectives towards carving. Where I split from you guys, and no that doesn't mean I'm hating, is this idea that there is only one way to eat this reese's. Thats just not so, or any fun!
 

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Short version of this entire thread:

People need to be more accepting to others ideas but only my idea is right so do it that way. You might think you’re doing it right but I assure you you’re not...


Anyway, there is something to the hula hoop movements - I know this first hand as do others in this thread. However it’s a shame you got so defensive toward so many people who really weren’t hating on you, but disagreeing in a public space or even agreeing and sharing a different perspective on the same thing, like myself. Conversation is creation and you stifled so much conversation.


Glad you had a great season full of progress.
 

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I hadn’t given thought to the idea of low board angulation on heelside turns but I follow the logic there. There will be a learning curve for me to get used to a “toes down” movement on my heelsides.

Can you explain the “toes up” on toe side turns? I don’t know if I follow that. Do you mean letting the board angle drop while you’re body tips lower?

I noticed the issues of completing the hula hoop heelside to toe side movement with duck foot it would feel as though my knee is being forced in a direction it shouldn’t go. I wound up changing my back foot to 0 degrees and that helped, I’m not ready to go + + yet as I just cant give up an occasional park lap.
 
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