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Wow, 16gkid, I just watched your vid. Awesome progression! That's some sweet (euro)carving you're doing there.
I too would call it euro, too, as you're nicely stretched out; if you want to call that judging, then it's a positive judging as IMO, it's harder to do a stretched out eurocarve than carve; lot of core stability needed. I usually fail to hold them. Have you used Knapton's vids to exersise or taken lessons? As nobody in my pack does that type of carving, I can't monitor them, but Knaptons vids - as nice they are to watch - fail to be informative enough to me to help me to progress.
can you explain what is the problem that you feeling?

or maybe you can open an other discussion

normally the big comone mistake n Eurocarve it to use
the three step for Carving

instead to use the

the four step for euro carving
 

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Wow, 16gkid, I just watched your vid. Awesome progression! That's some sweet (euro)carving you're doing there.
I too would call it euro, too, as you're nicely stretched out; if you want to call that judging, then it's a positive judging as IMO, it's harder to do a stretched out eurocarve than carve; lot of core stability needed. I usually fail to hold them. Have you used Knapton's vids to exersise or taken lessons? As nobody in my pack does that type of carving, I can't monitor them, but Knaptons vids - as nice they are to watch - fail to be informative enough to me to help me to progress.
While I don’t strech out as much as this guy during a Eurocarve yet I can tell you that your core is probably strong enough to handle it. What I found to be the obstacle to progress in my case was this combination of the board angulation and the fore-aft movement during the carve.
My ankles, especially the front foot one, were too unstable to hold the board like that. Like the board starts to wiggle/chatter a lot and you freak out and stop the carve.
151827
 

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If you feel unstable on one feet

probably you did not charge it correctly on the step before

but for laydown the harm we have to stop to speak about balance on the board

and we have to start to speak about three contact point on the ground and how we are able to arrive on that position and how we will be able to take of from
 

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The Swiss Miss
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can you explain what is the problem that you feeling?
I don't find the momentum/strength/right moment+right move (?) to get back up.

In a normal/basic/butt-out/non-stretched/non-euro carve like in first pics, there's angulation in hip n knees, so there's motion range to push through apex and accelerate, fun and works fine going fast or slow, varying radius works fine, too.

But going stretched out and on the arm, I'm like a helpless beetle, I don't find the way to get up again and usyally finish the carve flat on my belly, like in second pic, where I ate a lot of snow :).
 

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I don't find the momentum/strength/right moment+right move (?) to get back up.

In a normal/basic/butt-out/non-stretched/non-euro carve like in first pics, there's angulation in hip n knees, so there's motion range to push through apex and accelerate, fun and works fine going fast or slow, varying radius works fine, too.

But going stretched out and on the arm, I'm like a helpless beetle, I don't find the way to get up again and usyally finish the carve flat on my belly, like in second pic, where I ate a lot of snow :).
Make sense

before everything can I ask your boots size your angle and the wist width of your board?For eurocarving we need
a wide board or
small feet or
high inclination binding
 

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by the way

like you know

in carving there is three main poin in the corner:

entrance
apex
Exit

and for every single of this step we have to move in one way

because if we move
we create the right pressione for curve hour board.

Inded we can tell that:

Entance = push your knee
apex = you are at the low moment of your pushing and you will start to pull the knee
Exit = you are pulling your knee and you are looking forward for the new corner and starting to pull again

but in Eurocarve or euro slide this system does not work

in eurocarving you have to adopt a 4 step system
 

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The Swiss Miss
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Make sense

before everything can I ask your boots size your angle and the wist width of your board?For eurocarving we need
a wide board or
small feet or
high inclination binding
Boot size is mondo 24.5 (euro 38); angles are +24/-6, stance width 58cm, (formerly I had fwd angles abt +27/+12, but with the anatomical twist in my knee/shin/ankle, I found a mild duck stance less strainful on my knees).

All my boards are wide enough for those angles and stance width so I don't boot out, even if board is tilted to 45° on firm ground. I only boot out in soft snow sinking in deep as toe strap catches snow.

Stats of current decks:
  • Never Summer Lady West 156, waist 24.1, radius 7.5, effective edge 120
  • Custom made trad. camber 156, ww 23.9, r 7.5, ee 121
  • Jones Flagship 154, ww 24.3, r 7.7, ee 116
  • Jones Hovercraft 150, ww 24.7, r 7.9, ee 118
(Hovy is for sale, tho. It kills my feet putting it on edge as it is too wide; I have Morton's Neuroma in feet, so there's only that much pressure I can endure to get leverage)

Boots n bindings are the stiffest/most responsive of women's gear to find. 32 XLT and NOW Conda.
 

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The Swiss Miss
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What is this nonsense. ESL is one thing, but this is jibberish. Oli look in to a better translator before posting.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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in the Eurocarving,

you have to make FOUR step:

essenzialy you have to ad one step and shift the others

Pre-entrance= put you board perpendicular on the slop and starting to push down your knee until you will arrive at minimum that you can do

your board is flat

Entrance=you are at the low moment of your pushing down and you will start to pull up the knee and contemporany turn your shulders, and your turning is starting.
Looking forward to the exit corner and start to put down the harm

Apex= Your legs are completley extended and you are sliding on the ground all time that your speed is able to give you, like a compass

Exit= you are pushing the knee and you are looking forward for the new corner
In this moment you will be able to came out of the corner by the centrifuge-Power that the corner will be able to give to you
 

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Boot size is mondo 24.5 (euro 38); angles are +24/-6, stance width 58cm, (formerly I had fwd angles abt +27/+12, but with the anatomical twist in my knee/shin/ankle, I found a mild duck stance less strainful on my knees).

All my boards are wide enough for those angles and stance width so I don't boot out, even if board is tilted to 45° on firm ground. I only boot out in soft snow sinking in deep as toe strap catches snow.

Stats of current decks:
  • Never Summer Lady West 156, waist 24.1, radius 7.5, effective edge 120
  • Custom made trad. camber 156, ww 23.9, r 7.5, ee 121
  • Jones Flagship 154, ww 24.3, r 7.7, ee 116
  • Jones Hovercraft 150, ww 24.7, r 7.9, ee 118
(Hovy is for sale, tho. It kills my feet putting it on edge as it is too wide; I have Morton's Neuroma in feet, so there's only that much pressure I can endure to get leverage)

Boots n bindings are the stiffest/most responsive of women's gear to find. 32 XLT and NOW Conda.
I have 26cm mondosize with +15 and -15 duck
My board, Wolkl squad Prime 156W, has a waist 26,5cm
In Front sometime the board touch and in the back i can not go down more than certen angle otherwise i will touch

Esenzialy you have half centimeter less than me that it mens that it could be touch in the extreme angle
 

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I think we've sidetracked here. For some reason I missed this or it hasn't been posted. I suspect it will help much more than pictures of crazy eurocarves as I think the issue deeper than just carving and gets down to proper basics.

 
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