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Hi Guys,

I'm planning to fix a few minor chips like these roughly 1-1.5cm and quite shallow. I was planning to apply some white paint and fill it with P-Tex. Would this last? is there a better way to do it? Thanks

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No mate...., that would be shit. To get best result you need to repair with flexible marine epoxy. You can paint the base layer chip to blend it in and then epoxy, sand and polish out with a machine/hand to blend into existing top sheet.

A cheaper way is to match up colour and apply automotive acrylic clear in a few layers which will look okay. Mask up the edges first. You can sand the edges back on an angle a smidge which will make them look a bit better.

If you live near Newie I can help you. I have a little repair/wax business on the side. Up to around 50 customers now.
 

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No mate...., that would be shit. To get best result you need to repair with flexible marine epoxy. You can paint the base layer chip to blend it in and then epoxy, sand and polish out with a machine/hand to blend into existing top sheet.

A cheaper way is to match up colour and apply automotive acrylic clear in a few layers which will look okay. Mask up the edges first. You can sand the edges back on an angle a smidge which will make them look a bit better.

If you live near Newie I can help you. I have a little repair/wax business on the side. Up to around 50 customers now.
I've got my surfboard epoxy...would that work?
 

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There is a high chance it will crack after a while due to the flex a snowboard undertakes.
This is the stuff you need. You buy it a marine supplies. This was $Au49, which will last me a massive amount of repairs as you only use a little. You can get smaller and larger volumes.

20190221_072113.jpg



This is a run through of a repair. Side wall chip in a Burton Fish.

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Mask up, clean out and sand lightly.

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Mix epoxy

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Apply and cover or leave elevated above but you will have to cut it back down. When you tape over you need to be pretty light as too much pressure will dent the repair. It wil leave a slightly satin texture in the resin as the adhesive in the tape doesn't allow a mirror finish (this can be cut out though with the machine). You can use clear tape reversed on masking which will smooth out the top of the epoxy. This helps you if you are not that good on the machine cutting back.
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This is what it looks like after drying. The epoxy will take over a day to fully cure before sanding especially in winter temps.
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This is the 75mm air sander I use with soft pad going down through grades wet sanding at 600/800/1200/2000/3000.

You then polish off with automotive cutting compound and micro velcro wool pad. Polish off afterwards with some car wax and a pad.

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And presto it's practically disappeared.

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Now 35 years ago I worked in Surfboard manufacturing factory and have all these skills pretty much dialed in to a moderate level. The trick to a good repair will be your sanding ability to keep the pad level without chewing into the existing. This is a very delicate job. especially with 600. You are only kissing the surface so slightly. Too much and you've [email protected] it up. This repair probably takes about 40 mins to do but is done over a few days.

These repairs are not that easy if you haven't got the skills or tools to do the job. Plenty of SBF members will say don't worry about it.
I am super cheap with these repairs like $20 in addition to wax/edges/base repairs . So you are doing it for like $5 and hour. But I have built up a pretty good base of customers and earn a couple of grand a year. But you work a lot on your days off from work. This goes straight back into buying gear for myself so good trade off.(y)
 

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I'd be more than happy to throw some ptex at those tiny chips and call it a day.

I have one like that on a board I picked up used and the brand rep told me that's what he'd do. Otherwise he'd recommend doing the full shebang Craig stated above...it didn't bother either of us enough to go through that entire ordeal lol.
 

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This is the 75mm air sander I use with soft pad going down through grades wet sanding at 600/800/1200/2000/3000.

You then polish off with automotive cutting compound and micro velcro wool pad. Polish off afterwards with some car wax and a pad.
I haven't tried that finishing technique, but it looks very professional. I generally just cut the g-flex down with a razor blade if I have to. Maybe I'll break out the sander next time and work on my touch. My tree boards get the most repairs, and I don't really care about how they look. I'd try to keep my Amplid looking fresh though.
 

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I haven't tried that finishing technique, but it looks very professional. I generally just cut the g-flex down with a razor blade if I have to. Maybe I'll break out the sander next time and work on my touch. My tree boards get the most repairs, and I don't really care about how they look. I'd try to keep my Amplid looking fresh though.
Yep it's a bit of work to do. You get professional results but you need to have a good understanding and skill in working with epoxy/fibreglass. masking off well and keeping repair flat will probably leave a moderate level repair that will look a fair bit better.
 

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Reminds me I should probably do something with my split where I step on myself and fuck it up.

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