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I've been waxing boards/skis for a few years now, family and friends. I've built a great snowboard tuning bench and board storage racks in small room in the garage. Purchased a lot of tools online from the good old USA as Australia don't seem to have a lot of the higher end products from good brands. I've discovered a great scraper to use is a "Chef Inox" plastic handled Stainless steel dough scraper. These are 150mm wide x 100mm tall. I just put a slight curve on the end tips of the blade to prevent it from gouging into the deck if you get a but radical on the scrapes. These are only about $Au4 and will last a lifetime. Really easy to hold with my big hands and do a great job. I've got a few perspex ones 150mm and 300mm but they need to be sharpened up every now and then.
 

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I have always just paid to have my board waxed, but now that my gf has picked one up and I have 2 board to look after I feel now it might be time to start.

I go roughly every 6 months and spend maybe 25 Australian dollars(per board) on a wax or 2 and a storage wax after my trip. The second board would double this (although she won't need much waxing ;) )

I have looked at a basic kit and it seems that I can get :
-scraper $8
-Demon Base cleaner $9 CLEANER
- Wax (Demon Team All temp 133 grams) $9.60 WAX
-Cheap steam iron $12 (2000 watt but has a temp control)
-brush from hardware store $5

All up around $44 Aussie.

Questions are:
1. How long would this wax last a beginner? Obviously i am going to waste a fair amount while getting started but is this a tiny amount that will only last me about 10 waxes? I see there are blocks that come per pound but cannot find one cheap for all temperature shipping to Australia.
2. Would I be better off letting a pro handle this? I'm still going to be too scared to do any edge work.
3. Is this iron going to trash the boards? I have read up and know to keep temp low and to keep the iron moving and to turn down the temp when the wax starts to smoke.
4. What sort of brush do i need to get? Guide says a nylon bristle brush. Does this mean a really stiff bristled scrubbing brush or more of a gentle shoe polishing style brush?
Shep you sound like budget is a big factor for you and being an Australian you see how much we get ripped off in the stores compared with overseas. That's were online helps you out here. Look at waxing/servicing your board as a saving over the years. I found a store online called "Snowin" and grabbed a Toko T8 iron (800w) for $Au73 they want $Au129 for this in the stores in Australia. You have to change the plug from Euro to Australia as it comes from the Netherlands or buy an adapter. You can't get the ones in the USA as they use 120volts instead of 240volts. I grabbed a Toko horsehair brush for $Au18 and a Toko edge tuner for $53. You can get a brass brush for about $30. The Toko ones are about twice the size as ones they sell in the stores at an even dearer price. I have a Vitora Prowaxer as well and the T8 is about 33% bigger in the hot plate. The T8 does an absolutely brilliant job so fast. I love it and use it and take the smaller Vitora away when we travel. I like using low fluro wax as well as it's only about $1 extra per wax to use. I got Hertel "Racing FC739" All Temperature Wax 3/4 lb (340grams) Brick which was about $Au55 delivered to Australia from Amazon US. This will last a long time. I've got horsehair brass and nylon brushes but you could probably just get a stiff nylon. Go to bunnings in the cleaing section and you can get large commercial scotchbrite pads (300x150x10mm) in about 5 different grades that stick onto a hand grip. This cost me about $22 and is brilliant. So much faster than a little green one from Woolworths. I'm an older guy but I reckon Fluro wax helps a fair bit when you are shooting across those mushie flat/slow sections on the mountain that you see other riders having to snap out and skate across as they can't make it. I just ride straight past them. I've got a really great set up with vices etc but you can make some tuning racks out of timber (make some rectangles, glue them together, then get some high density self adhesive rubber strips (about 10mm thick) from Clark rubber. You then vice grip them onto some saw horses. I've done this as I scrape and brush all the boards/skis I do on the lawn so it doesn't make a mess everywhere in the garage. No clean up. I watched heaps of video's online and picked it up. It's a bit daunting at first but once you've done it a few times it's pretty dame easy. I bought a 5 different grade pack of diamond stones as I do all the bottom and side edges but that's going to cost you a few hundred $$$$ to set up. If you've get the money it's worth doing. My edges come up like polished chrome. I'm a big guy and ride a 165W whilst my wife is on 143 ski's. I could probably do 3 pairs/sets of skis to my snowboard. It costs me about $4 to $5 in fluro wax to do a board which would be $3 to $4 in standard wax. They charge around $AU60 to wax/edge and about $25 to $30 wax in Australia so for me to do our family of 4 it's $240. I now do all my friends and work colleagues that ski and snowboard. I do my boards every couple of days in Australia when snowboarding as it's often pretty shit on the man-made snow, but I do it once a week when we are in Japan on the powder. When you can tune your own boards, I find you do it a lot more as it's enjoyable.
 

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Would it be better to go with a dedicated angle file guide or to do a multi-edge file guide?

I'm looking at picking up a SKS multi-edge tuner(also comes with three DMT diamond stones) that does both the base and side edge. I'm guessing the dedicated angle guides will be a little better but wasn't sure how much of a difference it would make if I wanted to save a little bit of money.
I do my boards/skis at 88 degrees side and 1 degree base bevel (FK SKS vario) but I'm over 50 so mainly ride as a mountain carver. Variable edgers will give you the ability to change which I can do with my Toko edge tuner pro but I keep these angles set so I could use a fixed guide. Diamond stones mainly help you polish the edges back through the grades 100 - 1500 and will give you a brilliant mirrored fine tuned edge. You will need a file in the edge guide to start if you catch a rock etc to repair and clean up the edge up.
 

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Tuning

Anyone know a good place I can learn about edge sharpening. I have never done it and I don't understand all this bevel shit.


Me dumb, me no understand you fancy talk. :hairy:
Willi Wiltz from Toko is excellent. Very comprehensive instruction on a number of video's. About 40 mins each. Base bevel/side edge/wax. Talks a lot of technical shit (maybe a bit over the top) but knows what he's talking about.



 

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Rotobrush

Just grabbed a Toko snowboard and a Toko Ski roto brush with white nylon heads for the first time to do my boards and ski's. Have been using a combination of brushes copper/nylon/horsehair for the last a few years.
Wow..., they are initially expensive $$$ but are absolutely brilliant and so quick.:bravo2: The base looks fantastic after a couple of light passes with structure lines running from tip to tail. :thumbsup:
Well worth the acquisition if you're fully into tuning.
 

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I would imagine that most of the wax comes off pretty fast, but you can ride a board for a while before it really starts to feel like it desperately needs another wax.
The type of snow also has an affect on the +/- level of abbrasivenes of removing wax from the base ie man made = bad V super light powder = good.
 
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