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How To Buy, Choose & Size The Perfect Snowboard For You

106238 Views 164 Replies 67 Participants Last post by  cameronhouse

So you've decided to buy a snowboard. Awesome! The following guide will break down how to pick the perfect snowboard that's right for you and the type of terrain you ride.

Video guide:

Text guide:

How to choose a snowboard

To choose a snowboard, you’ll need to decide on 5 main areas: Size, Flex, Width, Shape & Camber. Don’t worry if you don’t understand these words, I’ll explain each term, as well as tell you which areas work best for what.

Remember that as you get more experienced, personal preference will play a bigger role in what you’ll prefer, these are only starting points. There are no set rules on what you have to snowboard with.

Part 1: Snowboard Sizing

Everyone buying a snowboard always gives their height and weight and asks what size they need. It’s not that simple. How flexible or strong a board is, will change the recommended weight for that board’s size.

For example: A 154 cm snowboard might usually have a recommended weight of about 65 kg, but if this particular snowboard is really flexible and built with lighter but weaker materials, the snowboard might instead have a recommended weight of about 60kg.

Also: Never a snowboard based on height. Rarely ever does height play a big role in the size of snowboard you need. This is a common mistake that even many experienced snowboarders will make.

Always aim to pick your size based mainly on your weight and what you want to ride.

Picking a snowboard size based on weight

Below is a list of some very rough weight ranges and their matching snowboard sizes. Remember that certain snowboards may be built slightly weaker or stronger, which will alter their weight range.

If you’d like a more exact weight range for a particular snowboard, you can ask any good snowboard store for a copy of the recommended specifications given to them by the snowboard brand.

Alternatively, you can email the company directly and they should be able to give you the exact recommend weight range for their snowboards.

Rough weight ranges and recommend snowboard sizes

100 to 120 lbs (45 to 54.5 kg) = 140 to 145 cm
120 to 130 lbs (55 to 59 kg) = 140 to 150 cm
130 to 140 lbs (59 to 63.5 kg) = 145 to 150 cm
140 to 150 lbs (63.5 to 68 kg) = 145 to 155 cm
150 to 160 lbs (69 to 72.5 kg) = 150 to 155 cm
160 to 170 lbs (72.5 to 77 kg) = 150 to 160 cm
170 to 180 lbs (77 to 81.5 kg) = 155 to 160 cm
180 to 190 lbs (81.5 to 86 kg) = 155 to 165 cm
190 to 200 lbs (86 to 91 kg) = 160 to 170 cm
200 to 250 lbs (91 to 113 kg) = 165 to 180 cm
250+ lbs (113+ kg) = 180 to 190 cm

Recommended snowboard sizes change depending on the terrain you’re riding

Besides the above recommend sizes, you should also choose the size of your snowboard based on the type of riding you’ll be doing.

All Mountain / Ride Everything - You’ll want to be at roughly the middle of the recommended size for your weight.

Powder - Large! Aim for as big a snowboard as you feel comfortable with riding. Bigger snowboards help you to float better in powder.

Just be aware that a huge snowboard may be fun in powder, but won’t be ideal for any other types of riding (and if you intend to ride in the trees you may not want too big of a snowboard).

Park / Freestyle - You’ll want a slightly smaller sized snowboard than average. A smaller size helps you to spin and move your snowboard with less effort.
The exception to this rule is if you’ll be riding on very large jumps. If so, you may want an average to slightly longer sized snowboard for greater stability.

Rails / Urban Freestyle - A lot shorter than average. If all you’ll be riding is rails, you want a really short snowboard to make it easy to spin and perform rail tricks

Part 2: Picking the right flex

Flex describes the flexibility of your snowboard. Companies usually have some sort of chart saying the flexibility or a number system. Lower numbers usually mean more flexible and higher numbers mean less flexible.

Eg – A 5 would be average flex, a 1 would be super flexible and a 10 would be insanely stiff.

Note: This is FAR from a foolproof way to figure out the flex of a snowboard, so take this with a grain of salt because snowboard flex isn't just about how much you can bend it horizontally, but the torsional flex as well.

In general, beginner riders will prefer a more flexible snowboard because it’s more forgiving for bad technique and mistakes.

What flex is best for what type of riding?

All Mountain / Ride Everything – Medium flex or slightly stiffer. About a 5 to 7 out of 10.

Powder / Freeride – Medium to super stiff, 6 to 9 out of 10

Park / Freestyle – Medium, but go stiffer if you ride bigger jumps. Aim for 4 to 6/7 out of 10.

Rails / Urban Freestyle – Super flexible. This will make it easier for nose and tail presses and jibbing/butters. Look for a 2 or 3 out of 10 (just don't expect it to be that stable on jumps and at speed).

Part 3: Picking the right width

This is how wide your snowboard needs to be. Snowboards usually come in regular width or wide. Typically, you’ll only require a wide snowboard if you have large feet.

The best way to make sure you’ve got the right width is to bring your snowboard boots when you buy a snowboard and put them where your bindings would be. If the toe and heel of your boot hangs out more than about 1 inch on each side, you may need to consider looking at a wide or mid-wide snowboard.

Some snowboards may be slightly thinner than average so you may not need a wide snowboard but rather, you might just need to pick a different snowboard that has a slightly wider width without needing to go to an actual wide sized snowboard.

Part 4: Picking the right shape

Shape is exactly like it sounds. It’s how the snowboard is shaped and how symmetrical the nose and tail of the snowboard are.

In simple speak, it’s basically asking 'Which direction will you be riding most of the time?'

Do you spend your time riding regular, switch (riding with your back foot leading first) or some mix of both.

Below are the 3 most common snowboard shapes and the type of riding that they are best suited for:

Note: Companies will have different names for them but you’ll be able to tell which is which by the description.

Twin – This means the snowboard is shaped completely symmetrical. There’s no difference in shape, whether you ride it switch or regular. Great for someone who spends a lot of time riding switch.

Twin snowboards are typically used for freestyle and terrain park riding.

Twin-ish - Nearly a twin, but usually just a tiny bit longer / larger in the nose area of your snowboard. Twin-ish snowboards are meant for riding both regular and switch. They're designed for those who spend their time doing a majority of freestyle riding, but with a little bit of all mountain riding as well.

Directional - The nose of the snowboard is longer / fatter than the tail of the snowboard. It's designed for someone who rides regular a majority of the time.

Remember, these shape descriptions are just recommendations and are not set in stone. For example, you’ll find A LOT of very good riders who do freestyle on a directional board.

Part 5: Picking the right camber

Note: This is a basic look at camber, for a more detailed guide to camber I'd check out our separate stickied thread on camber profiles.

Camber is the direction which the bottom of your board curves. There are 4 main types of camber (and a billionzilliontrillion sub types of hybrid camber):

Regular, reverse, flat / zero camber and hybrid camber.

Think of a banana.

Regular camber – The banana is curving down

Reverse camber - The banana is curving up

Zero / Flat camber – You somehow made the banana completely straight.

Hybrid camber - This is some sort of mix between regular and reverse camber. One common form of hybrid camber is regular camber in the middle with reverse towards the ends of your snowboard, but you'll find many different types of hybrid camber.

What camber works for what type of riding?

Note: These are general guidelines of how a type of camber tends to act, but sometimes you'll find a board which performs very different from how you'd expect it's camber to behave.

Regular camber – Offers great stability for riding fast and hitting big jumps

Reverse camber – Great for easy float in powder. Also great for freestyle riding that’s only focused on just rails and boxes due to being easy to press and play around.

Zero / Flat camber - Used as a middle ground between regular camber and reverse camber.

Hybrid camber – Can be used for all situations depending on how the hybrid camber was built. By mixing regular and reverse camber, companies are able to make many different types of hybrid cambers. This means you can have one hybrid camber that's been built for freestyle and another that's been built for powder.

Snowboard companies have many names for their hybrid camber combinations, so you’ll need to look at the description and shape and often ride the actual board to figure out how many hybrid camber boards perform.

Every hybrid camber is a little different because every company builds it a little bit differently.


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Hi guys,

These board calculators are responsible for a huge number of new riders making very inappropriate (and expensive to fix) gear choices. Both the input questions and the output results are misguided.


Shoe size (Oh no!). This has to be barefoot measurement. Shoe size and even boot size (which always should be be two different measurements) should ever be used.
Rider height should never be requested when sizing a board. Rider height has absolutely no bearing on board sizing.


Any calculator that outputs a board length without reference to a specific model is doing a huge disservice to the snowboard community. The correct size for a given rider can vary by up to 10 cm depending on model.
Width: The resulting range given is larger than the difference between a "normal" and a "Wide" board in most models and is based on Waist Width (ughhh!). Nothing happens at the waist. And.. it is derived from shoe size as above.
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Well, evidently certain boots run small, because I tried on some Burton boots of size 10, 10.5, and 11, in person, and the size 10 boots REALLY caused my toes to crumple up uncomfortably, even after trying to bump my heel on the floor to scoot them back. My toes were pushing up against even the size 11 boots I've been wearing when I first got them. After riding in them for several full days, they packed out a little and now feel perfect.

I'm aware that my cm foot measurement doesn't normally correspond to a size 11 boot, but for this particular boot of mine, size 11 is what fits. Maybe when the time comes to buy new boots of a different model, it'll turn out that a smaller size accurately fits my feet, but that's definitely not so with these ones. There's no way in hell that my feet would fit in 8.5 size boots of the kind I'm now using, based on what I've actually tried on.

I'm interested in what you said about directional twin, though. Why would that be beneficial for riding switch? Wouldn't any stance setback or asymmetrical flexibility make it more awkward/difficult to ride the other way?

Edit: I actually just measured my feet again to double check, more exactly by standing normally and marking lines on paper, and they could be called 27~27.5 cm.
Anyway, I'd still like to hear what anyone thinks of my length question (in my last post). I go back and forth, thinking about it. It torments me so. orz
Hi Syn,

You may want to measure your barefoot width as well. 26.5-27.5 cm should never be in Mondo 29 (size 11).

Hey, dude, I read through your entire thread about boot sizing. It was an interesting read for me, since I am intent on (I'd say even passionate about) having well-fitting gear. To be honest, it bothers me a bit that some people have told me my boots are too big for me, but pragmatically, I've snowboarded in them 6 times and they've felt great. My toes just touch the ends, and my heels are held very firmly with no heel lift that I can notice. They feel extremely comfy and I don't think I've had any performance issues related to having too-large boots (I'm sort of a beginner-intermediate snowboarder, and feel I've been progressing wonderfully - plus having a great time). Then again, I may just be new, naive, and not able to know the difference between the performance of slightly-too-large boots and tighter-fitting ones. I also don't know if six (full) days of riding is long enough to get a sense of the "packing-out effect." You think they could pack out a lot more and then I may curse the day I bought size 11 boots?

But to answer about the width: I just measured by putting each foot sidelong against a wall and measuring out to the widest point. The measurement I got for both is very close to 9.5 cm.

And forgive this somewhat retarded question, but... durrr... how exactly is foot length measured? See, I've tried planting my foot against a wall and measuring out from there, but I've gotten measurements varying up to a full centimeter (sometimes even a little more!) due to having my foot either really pressed up firmly against the wall, or just lightly touching. I also wonder if the time of day I measure makes a difference. I'd guess it could if one has been on their feet all day.
Hi Syn,

It sounds like you are having a great time riding and are advancing quickly. That is always awesome to hear! Riders mention boots a lot because they do have a huge impact on performance. No intention to cool your stoke on this end. Snowboard boots are intended to fit very differently from other footwear. Just touching the end of the liner typically indicates at least one full size too large. We look for firm pressure (both toe and heel) into the compliant materials of the liner. This usually feels very odd or wrong to a new rider but soon anything else will feel incorrect. That firm pressure is what hold your foot in place and with a heat fit allows for a massive increase in performance.

If you want to pull the inserts from your liners, stand on them with your heels back in the heel indents and take/post some photos I will be happy to have a look.

9.5 cm wide in this size range is very narrow. If correct, that is a C width even at size 9.5. That will not be our issue.

For measurement I suggest just touching the wall with your heel and fully weighting that foot.

Boots typically pack out for roughly 2 weeks of riding days. 1 cm (one full foot size) of pack out is typical.
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Hi Syn,

Yes, those are larger than we would like to see. Your foot is smaller than that insert. When we get you down to your Mondo size your foot will overhang the insert by ~ 1 cm. That is typical. 27.5 cm is a size 9.5 in snowboard boots.

Cool. I feel better about my perspective on boots now. I can assure you I will be trying out some smaller boots next season.

If I may, I'd also like to ask you about my snowboard: my board is a very old (others on this site estimated ~20 yrs) Sims Quest 160. I don't know too much about it other than that it seems to be a directional twin with traditional camber. I have no clue how its stiffness measures up to today's boards. I'm wondering about how appropriate the 160 cm length is for my very light weight of 130 lbs. Most every weight/board length guide I've found would recommend a shorter board for my weight. Unfortunately I don't think any such weight guide can be found for this old board. Any thoughts? I'm interested in all-mountain riding (mainly just riding down the mountain and maybe learning a few little tricks someday). Based on browsing new boards, my size seems to be around 150~155 cm for most models out there today, and I'm wondering if this big old clunky 160 could be making it more difficult for me to turn and maneuver.
Hi Syn,

I strongly suggest that you take the emphasis off of tip to tip length (i.e. 160 cm, 150 cm, etc.). Tip to tip length is a very poor indicator of how a board will perform and any calculator or system that produces a tip to tip size or size range should be avoided (this thread included). The only way to get a strong fit is to look at the design specs of specific models. What was the board designed for? What weight range? What foot size?

The original Sims Quest was a directional, cap construction, vertically laminated wood core board with a very uniform core thickness (common back then). It was quite stiff and had a long running length due to full conventional camber and relatively short raised tip and tail (for the day). You are correct that it is both longer (contact and edge) and stiffer than would be suggested for your specs.

If there are specific models that you are interested in we will all be stoked to help you find the best size for your specifics.
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One interesting thing: both snowboard-related shops I visited in my small town before buying this one suggested just sizing by length (the shoulder to nose range stand-up height rule), and flat out told me when I asked that weight wasn't a factor.
Next time you go in, don't take off your headphones. Just smile and nod :). Sadly, this is still common.

I've been leaning towards either the 153 or 155, but I have also considered the 157. Do you think the 157 would be oversized for me? It's a little difficult to judge with this one since Capita doesn't publish weight ranges. You can correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think width will be an issue on any of these three sizes. I'm pretty certain my boot size going forward is going to always be either 9.5 or 10 (depending on the individual boot) and I believe either of those sizes would be okay for the widths of these boards (again, correct me if you have a differing insight).
The Horrorscope is a really playful board. Flatrock and soft(er) by any standard. 153 will be best for your specs. If you have a chance to demo some boards before you buy I would highly suggest that. The Horrorscope has a highly reduced contact length in comparison to your Quest and is nearly opposite the Quest in many ways. That is not a negative but you should know that you are going from near one end of the spectrum to near the other. There are other designs that would land you closer to the middle (if that is your goal).

But you think the 153, huh? Is there a certain board spec(s) you use to make that suggestion? I just like to understand how to tell these things. One thing I'm wondering: could there be any benefit for me going up a couple cm to the 155 if I think the riding I do will be a bit more on the all-mountain side and relatively less (but still some) on the tricks/feestyle side? I've read of people choosing a slightly smaller size (for increased maneuverability and decreased swing weight) if their board will be used for almost all park, or a slightly larger size (for increased stability at speed, better edge hold) if they spend more time just riding down the mountain.
Hi Syn,

Yes, 153. I would not suggest upsizing a soft, flatrock board in an effort to get extra grip/stability. This is really a very specialized board and I would highly suggest that you size it to ride well for what it is rather than trying to glean extra performance in other areas that is really not available from this design.

If playful riding is your goal than this is a great choice. If you are looking for a do it all daily driver then i would suggest an alternate model.
Yes, being a little more playful is a goal. :grin: I shall make the mountain my veritable plaything! As I just said though, I'm still wondering what specific board specifications lead you to suggest the 153 with such certainty. Is it the effective edge? It couldn't be my weight alone, since Capita publishes not weight ranges, unless you're estimating based on some more general weight range which isn't specific to this board... REVEAL TO ME YOUR SECRETS, MR. WIREDSPORT. >:)

And again, what of torque's compounded effect for the freakishly tall? I'm loathe to dismiss the laws of physics. Weight must certainly be key, but torsional flexing is produced by torque, which is proportional to BOTH force due to gravity and the lever arm's length, the latter of which is obviously greater for someone with great height and very long legs (like myself).

Anyway, thanks for all of your sizing advice thus far. It has all been a helpful complement to my rigorous research (especially regarding boot sizing) and I thoroughly enjoy the discussion.
Hi Syn,

It is always weight and foot size :).

At 27.5 cm foot, 130 lbs the top choice for you would be the 153 cm. Next up would be 151 cm, not 155. We want to makes sure you have barefoot overhang at normal stance angles. You are a new rider so your angles are not locked in yet. This is a pure play board. Adding length and stiffness is not advised. The 155 is better suited for guys of my size at 170 lbs. I have many days on this board and the DOA. If you want to stick with Capita and are looking for an all mountain play board then you might consider the DOA.

Torsional flex (twist) is managed primarily from intentional rider controlled body input. Most current boards are milled so that the area between the bindings allows rider controlled torsional twist to varying degrees. On a board that is overweighted for its design, unwanted torsional and longitudinal flex can occur on all areas of the board. The board will distort and will not offer its designed edge hold. Height is a negligible factor here as body position is not static in either height or position like a fixed lever. Body weight is intentionally positioned - with time :) - and is typically in line with the forces applied to the board.

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Looking for a new board and Im looking at waist widths.

Currently looking at the Jones explorer or Rossi one mag.

I am a leanish guy at about 68kgs and 183cms tall. My normal running shoes are a 10.5 or 11US but I have a pair of size 11US snowboard boots.
I have recently been refitted for boots and I realize I should have got a size 10 boot and not the 11 and so I will look to replace my snowboard boots in the next few months.
I use large burton mission bindings (but can upgrade to mediums if required)
For the Jones explorer I seem to be in between 2 sizes (the 159 or the 162). Which board would be better?

Would a width of 25.4 be enough for my current boots and large bindings?
Hi Shep,

You really do not want to go by a relation to shoe size or boot size. You will want to go by barefoot measurement.

Please measure your foot using this method:

Kick your heel (barefoot please, no socks) back against a wall. Mark the floor exactly at the tip of your toe (the one that sticks out furthest - which toe this is will vary by rider). Measure from the mark on the floor to the wall. That is your foot length and is the only measurement that you will want to use. Measure in centimeters if possible, but if not, take inches and multiply by 2.54 (example: an 11.25 inch foot x 2.54 = 28.57 centimeters).
26cm foot length. thanks for your assistance.

The Jones Explorer in 159 has a waist width of 254. Not sure if that is too small. Currently ride angles of 15,12 I think.
Hi Shep,

26 cm is Mondo 260 which is actually size 8 in snowboard boots. The Jones Explorer will be wider at the inserts than your foot is long. That is without stance angle. With stance angle you will lose ~ an additional cm. We always advise that riders aim to have some barefoot overhang over both the toe and heel edge. On this board you would be within the confines of the edges.

I would highly suggest that you sort your boots out first. This will have a major impact on both your riding and on your board an binding choices. Here are some threads that may help:

The next step would be to get a barefoot width measurement for both feet.

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Yes, 8.5 cm wide at 26 cm (size 8) length is quite narrow. It is a B width. "Normal" width snowboard boots are D width. The Flow Talon has a narrower fit if you like a very stiff boot. In terms of boards you will want to be looking at narrower widths for the most positive edge to edge transitions. if you are a newer rider this can be a huge factor in speeding up the learning curve.

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Just to pick any brand (Burton)(LibTech)(K2)ect.
What is the difference between a low priced snowboard vs a high priced snowboard when the specs are the same?
Hi Buz,

There are a lot of elements that go into any given board. Design and dimensions, materials and manufacturing processes. While there can be similarities between brands, it is unusual for the specs to be identical. It is more valuable to compare specific models. Did you have something in mind?

PS: I feel a little badly posting in this thread because the initial information is far from what what we would suggest. Specifically, any sizing guide that produces a tip to tip length (or length range) is strongly advised against. That practice is responsible for many expensive mistakes and poor rider experiences. I have equal disagreement with the suggestions given for width and flex.
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Hi Guys,

Rider height is not a factor in board sizing. The best spot to start is with your barefoot measurements (boot size or shoe size should not be used).

For length please measure your foot using this method:

Kick your heel (barefoot please, no socks) back against a wall. Mark the floor exactly at the tip of your toe (the one that sticks out furthest - which toe this is will vary by rider). Measure from the mark on the floor to the wall. That is your foot length and is the only measurement that you will want to use. Measure in centimeters if possible, but if not, take inches and multiply by 2.54 (example: an 11.25 inch foot x 2.54 = 28.57 centimeters).

For width please place the inside (medial side) of your foot against a wall. Please then measure from the wall out to the widest point on the lateral (outside) of your foot.
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Coming into year 3 of snowboarding. Probably been out on this board 30-40 times. No park stuff (I'm old) just riding and learning. This is my first board ever.

My question is, aside from getting a new board to serve a new purpose, when is a board really past its prime and needing replacement? What goes wrong with an old board?

I'm mostly just curious, as I think mine is fine. It definitely got more nicked up last year as my son and I got better and were riding steeper, icier conditions.

After 30-40 days of riding you are just getting to know each other :). Quality boards will last for many 40 day seasons provided that they are well cared for. Impact damage is often what kills a board. If you have stayed clear of that you are looking grand. Post up a base picture and we will be happy to have a look.

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I've just followed your method and confirmed I have tiny feet. Adding to my stats listed earlier (copied below for convenience) what board size should I be looking at?

- Weight: ~82kg (180lbs)
- Height: 186cm (~6'1")
- Foot length: 27cm
- Foot width: 10cm

27 cm is Mondo 270 or size 9 in snowboard boots. At 180 lbs you are a really easy fit and most of the boards that are produced will have a size that will fit you. Stay away from boards labeled "Wide", "Mid Wide" etc and you will find many great options from most manufacturers. Your description (Groomers, Powder, Play) is pretty well the definition of All Mountain so you will get hundreds of suggestions. If you narrow it down to a model let us know and we will be happy to suggest the best size.

Hello, everyone!
Wanna buy carbon credit btx, but not sure which size is mine. I'm 156lbs (71kg), height 168cm, not fat. According for gnu size chart it is 153cm gnu carbon credit for me. Is it right choice if I want to learn freestyle easy jumps? Also I can't understand should I spend extra money for buying there new asym carbon credit or I can buy 2016 carbon credit (not asym) since there're no real difference for intermediate rider?
Thanks for any answers!
Hi Katsura,

STOKED that you are getting a new deck! Rider height is not a factor in board sizing but foot size is a big one. Please post up your barefoot measurements so we can get you some good suggestions. Please measure your foot using this method:

Kick your heel (barefoot please, no socks) back against a wall. Mark the floor exactly at the tip of your toe (the one that sticks out furthest - which toe this is will vary by rider). Measure from the mark on the floor to the wall. That is your foot length and is the only measurement that you will want to use. Measure in centimeters if possible, but if not, take inches and multiply by 2.54 (example: an 11.25 inch foot x 2.54 = 28.57 centimeters).
Hi, Wiredsport!
I've measured my foot and it's 26.2cm. Also I have vans snowboard boots and it's 9 size (US I guess). So, which one Carbon Credit is mine? :)

26.2 cm is Mondo 265 or on the low end of the measurement range for size 8.5 in snowboard boots. The Carbon Credit 153 will work for you if you ride at very straight angles and/or narrow stance width. If you ride at higher degree angles and at the reference width or wider then your toes and heels will be within the confines of the board (which is a performance killer). In that instance I would suggest that you drop down to the 150 cm size.

My current angles are +24/-15 (kind of weird duck stance) - is it high degree? Afraid to buy 150 since GNU size chart says it's to small for my weight (71kg + cloth, boots, etc). Also my stance is not wide and not too narrow (not sure how to mease it).
Hi, Gnu has the weight range at 90-160 + which has you within the core range of the 150. At your stance angles your toes and heels will be well within the confines of the edges on the 153 and just at the edges with the 150. This is a balance between weight and foot size.
Hm, looks like I should go in store and try to place my bindings and shoes right on the both 153 and 150 boards and check which one fits better. Thanks you for answers!

That would not be my suggestion. Your bindings and boots will not help as your boots are too large. I would highly sugest that you compare your bare feet (no socks) to the actual board width at your stance width and angles.

Hey there! Maybe someone can give me the advise . I’m 169 tall and 59 kg weight.I used to always rent a board till I progressed and decided That i’m ready for my own.i remember feeling more comfortable with a bit shorter board but my goal was to get all mountain snowboard that I can also use sometime for freeridiing and some powder .So I bought Nitro Lectra 2017 with k2 bindings,I was thinking as a woman snowboard it will be lighter witch doesn’t seem so. I took 149 length as it’s reccomended by the model and my weight but now I’m worried bcz I see that running length is pretty big as it’s zero camber and I really like riding without giving to much power to my turns. I also have read some articles about Sidecut and I don’t really get it. Smaller Sidecut means I need to give mich power to my turn or the opposite ? Sidecut of lectra board 149 is 6,8. Can this lengt aslo affect my turns and carving And maybe it’s big for me considering the type of profile and my own length? I still have option to change it for shorter one or some other model as I’m not a complete beginner. Unfortunately I can’t test is now, so it will be too late to give it back .Thank you and sorry if there is too much info.
Please also let us know your foot size. Please measure your foot using this method:

Kick your heel (barefoot please, no socks) back against a wall. Mark the floor exactly at the tip of your toe (the one that sticks out furthest - which toe this is will vary by rider). Measure from the mark on the floor to the wall. That is your foot length and is the only measurement that you will want to use. Measure in centimeters if possible, but if not, take inches and multiply by 2.54 (example: an 11.25 inch foot x 2.54 = 28.57 centimeters).
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