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Discussion Starter #81
That’s exactly what I do for my twins within a reference stance. Then measure from binding to nose and tail to make sure it’s perfectly symmetrical. My main question
Is with setback should I use that same method but have an extra inch of nose
 

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Discussion Starter #82
So I think I’m am idiot. From reading it looks like boards with setback adjust the binding inserts to accommodate. So basically just set up center in the insert packs and that should about right
 

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So I think I’m am idiot. From reading it looks like boards with setback adjust the binding inserts to accommodate. So basically just set up center in the insert packs and that should about right
Yeah, center is center.

There's a difference between being centered on the board vs centered in the sidecut. Many boards have a longer nose, but you're still centered in the sidecut at reference even though the nose is longer than the tail.
 

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I usually start at the middle inserts and adjust my stance by making the changes as symmetrical as posssible from there. If I need to narrow by 1 inch I’ll pull the front binding back .5 and the back binding forward .5. No idea if that’s correct.
Sounds correct to me
 

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Discussion Starter #86
So just to clarify cause I’m clearly over thinking this . Has 6 holes each side for bindings, I set up each binding dead center and then made my stance 22.5. Center of Front binding to nose is about 3 inches more then back binding to tail, normal ? Sorry used to just using reference stance then measuring nose and tail to be identical . I guess in my Head 1 inch setback meant I was gonna have an extra inch of nose, just alarmed me to see 3 inches
 

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Reference stance on GNU/Lib Tech using a 4x4 disc: 2nd and fourth inserts from the middle.
Some companies calculate setback on all the board, some other on the contact points.
So center your bindings on the insert packs and it will be okay :)
 

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Discussion Starter #88
Reference stance on GNU/Lib Tech using a 4x4 disc: 2nd and fourth inserts from the middle.
Some companies calculate setback on all the board, some other on the contact points.
So center your bindings on the insert packs and it will be okay :)
Ya just centered them in the insert pack. It’s 2x4 so used middle two holes (3 and 4)
 

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So just to clarify cause I’m clearly over thinking this . Has 6 holes each side for bindings, I set up each binding dead center and then made my stance 22.5. Center of Front binding to nose is about 3 inches more then back binding to tail, normal ? Sorry used to just using reference stance then measuring nose and tail to be identical . I guess in my Head 1 inch setback meant I was gonna have an extra inch of nose, just alarmed me to see 3 inches
Yeah, from my perspective you're thinking too hard. I like feeling new decks out. I rarely measure anything. I just throw bindings on the center holes and see how it feels. Then I play around with dialing things in. If it feels like the nose is way too big and your weight is too far back, change it. I couldn't tell you what my preferred stance is. It's different on different boards, just like my riding is different on different boards.
 

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Discussion Starter #90
Yeah, from my perspective you're thinking too hard. I like feeling new decks out. I rarely measure anything. I just throw bindings on the center holes and see how it feels. Then I play around with dialing things in. If it feels like the nose is way too big and your weight is too far back, change it. I couldn't tell you what my preferred stance is. It's different on different boards, just like my riding is different on different boards.
Awesome thanks, coming from twins I’m super precise in making my board exactly symmetrical. Got it waxed and set up can’t wait for tomorrow.
 

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Setback specs are a really annoying non-standard thing. I don't trust any specs like that and set the board up how it feels right.

Even twins, unless you have a perfectly symmetrical duck stance you are not "centered" if your lead foot has more of an angle. That also can ride great with a cm or two of setback. Pretty sure the reference stance on a Jones Mountain Twin is exactly that - a twin with the bindings moved back 2cm on sidecut and board.
 

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Discussion Starter #94
So I got a chance to take the board on a few runs today and absolutely loved it. It was exactly what I wanted it to be in my head. The flex was perfect, past middle of the road but I Could still butter. I really liked the C3 but it certainly isn’t forgiving, some would say a little catchy. This is camber tip To tip. Once or twice I got lazy and felt it “almost catch” when standing up straight or going flat on a cat track. That being said this thing railed turns and carves. The more you put in the more it put out. The magna-traction looks very mellow but this thing grips great. It really is exactly what it claims to be. An all mountain freestyle bordering on that all mountain free ride. Switch felt oddly very comfortable once you get past the shape. The “centered” stance was quite a bit set back but felt great, which was prob why it was so fun to butter with the extra stiffness. Went to 360 a toe side carve and went a little to backseat into a butter but other then that didn’t feel to back seat, I may leave it as is atleast for another trip.

Funny enough my wife came out for the first time in over 1.5 years after having our child and this certainly isn’t a deck to be messing Around helping people and getting lazy. I rode my evil twin the first half of the day then this the second. I do love 3bt for lighting quick acceleration and speed but on the flip side it’s enjoyable to have a deck you “have to dig in” to engage and it fights back in a good way. I’ve noticed with non Bataleon boards to get max speed you do just have to point it and go a little more,
Assuming it’s because of the less friction tbt has.

Overall absolutely love the board, it is exactly as described, and I will be reaching for this board way more then I had anticipated i would
 
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