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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

After reading countless posts, I have more or less decided on a lib tech T.Rice as my next all mountain board (not powder quiver). Ideally, I would have preferred the 157, easier to navigate trees and spins. But my recent weight gain (muscle hopefully) to 175 lbs and terrain (deep hokkaido powder + long gentle sections) is making me reconsider.

I have rougly 300+ days on the mountain so far and even on deep powder days, I can sort of hack it on my Highlife 155. However, it gets tiring really fast and I am looking for an easier ride. If I choose the T.Rice 157, would the +2 cm & C-R-C profile make enough difference? Or is the 161.5 my only choice?

All opinions are welcome. Thanks
 

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Hi,

After reading countless posts, I have more or less decided on a lib tech T.Rice as my next all mountain board (not powder quiver). Ideally, I would have preferred the 157, easier to navigate trees and spins. But my recent weight gain (muscle hopefully) to 175 lbs and terrain (deep hokkaido powder + long gentle sections) is making me reconsider.

I have rougly 300+ days on the mountain so far and even on deep powder days, I can sort of hack it on my Highlife 155. However, it gets tiring really fast and I am looking for an easier ride. If I choose the T.Rice 157, would the +2 cm & C-R-C profile make enough difference? Or is the 161.5 my only choice?

All opinions are welcome. Thanks
Why do you want to go for the T. Rice? I also mostly ride Hokkaido and that deck would not be high on my list of boards as it is not a particularly good match for the typical riding here - why bring a stiff big-mountain charger to a place where most of the riding is messing around in tons of pow on mellow slopes?
I would really recommend something more playful and/or pow specific.

PS: What year Highlife do you have? I presume older than the 2011-12 version, i.e., before it became hybrid camber.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Mine is the 11-12 version, with a micro camber underneath.

I was looking for a C-R-C all mountain board with the following characteristics in order of preference
1. Able to float in deep powder
2. Stiff enough to handle crude
3. Twin

It seems more difficult to find a never summer board in japan. Ordering online is possible but I wasn't sure the difference between lib-tech c2btx and never summer RC is worth the effort.

With that, I was left with T.Rice. My Highlife 155 is pretty stiff but it is still possible to butter and spin. It's only nemesis is deep powder.
 

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Mine is the 11-12 version, with a micro camber underneath.

I was looking for a C-R-C all mountain board with the following characteristics in order of preference
1. Able to float in deep powder
2. Stiff enough to handle crude
3. Twin

It seems more difficult to find a never summer board in japan. Ordering online is possible but I wasn't sure the difference between lib-tech c2btx and never summer RC is worth the effort.

With that, I was left with T.Rice. My Highlife 155 is pretty stiff but it is still possible to butter and spin. It's only nemesis is deep powder.
There are many more options than the T. Rice that meet those criteria are much better - NS, Proto (yes difficult to get in Japan, but dreampow is selling hit 157 CT at the moment), from Mervin you have the Riders Choice, TRS, Attack Banana, and Banana Magic.
Also note that for deep powder, none of these (with the exception of the Magic) will float much better than the Highlife - for that you really need to go directional with a pow profile (ideally tapered and maybe with a swallowtail) or full rocker (in fact, if you are keeping the Highlife as a charger, something like the Skate Banana would be pretty good deck for 90% of the riding in Japan).
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I used to have a skate banana 156 which was awesome in Niseko pow. On everything else, it was a bit sketchy. Made me realize that a stiffer board is more suitable for my style of riding, sold the banana and got the highlife.

Anyway, this might be a gross simplification but I was comparing in my mind how much of a powder bonus each side profile gives. According to my weight, a camber 161 should be a decent powder board ...
1. Full rocker = +5 cm (skate banana 156 = camber 161)
2. C-R-C = +3 cm (t.rice 157 = camber 160)
3. R-C-R = +2 cm (highlife 155 = camber 157)

I am guessing that the C-R-C profile is slightly better that the R-C-R profile in powder. Not sure about this though, would appreciate if anybody can enlighten me on this.

I did look at the Proto but I find it a bit too flexi. Is the heritage the stiff version of the Proto?
 

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I am guessing that the C-R-C profile is slightly better that the R-C-R profile in powder. Not sure about this though, would appreciate if anybody can enlighten me on this.
Many factors affect float in pow, camber profile is only one of them and it is impossible to make such a generalization.

I did look at the Proto but I find it a bit too flexi. Is the heritage the stiff version of the Proto?
Proto definitely not too flexy - dreampow rides it on Honshu in much bigger mountains and challenging terrain than we have in Hokkaido.

Heritage is not a true twin and, like the the T. Rice, much too stiff and plankish for Hokkaido riding.
 

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The t.rice wants to stick to big, long turns wherever possible. I'm 160 lb and ride the 157 as my deep pow stick in the PNW, and find that it floats well enough in even the wettest, stickiest shitpow that I don't ever have fatigue issues. It's also fast enough in the deep to beat all the low angle runouts we've got here without issue.

On the other hand, it's not really that great in tight trees. The more small, fast turns you have to make, the less happy the trice gets. On low angle pow tree days I definitely prefer going down to the more playful banana magic.
 

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The t.rice wants stick to big, long turns wherever possible. I'm 160 lb and ride the 157 as my deep pow stick in the PNW, and find that it floats well enough in even the wettest, stickiest shitpow that I don't ever have fatigue issues. It's also fast enough in the deep to beat all the low angle runouts we've got here without issue.

On the other hand, it's not really that great in tight trees. The more small, fast turns you have to make, the less happy the trice gets. On low angle pow tree days I definitely prefer going down to the more playful banana magic.
I've been looking at getting a t rice 157 as well and from everything I read that seems to be the case. Great on wide open groomers, great on jumps, and pretty good in pow. Not so great in tight spaces and not playful. I'm 180lbs though so the 157 may be a bit more nimble for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
from Mervin you have the Riders Choice, TRS, Attack Banana, and Banana Magic.
The camber profile for Attack Banana / Banana Magic is a bit similar to my old skate banana; only go into the park to hit the jumps but will definitely take a closer look at Riders choice / TRS. Thanks for the recommendations. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The t.rice wants to stick to big, long turns wherever possible. I'm 160 lb and ride the 157 as my deep pow stick in the PNW, and find that it floats well enough in even the wettest, stickiest shitpow that I don't ever have fatigue issues. It's also fast enough in the deep to beat all the low angle runouts we've got here without issue.

On the other hand, it's not really that great in tight trees. The more small, fast turns you have to make, the less happy the trice gets. On low angle pow tree days I definitely prefer going down to the more playful banana magic.
I have come across quite a few post where the t.rice 157 is able to handle fine even at 200~ lbs in general conditions but your bit regarding deep pow is really a piece of valuable info, thank you. :D
 

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The camber profile for Attack Banana / Banana Magic is a bit similar to my old skate banana; only go into the park to hit the jumps but will definitely take a closer look at Riders choice / TRS. Thanks for the recommendations. :thumbsup:
Actually, they are really not that close, especially the Attack Banana (normally not one of my favorite boards, but for what you are describing it could be a pretty good match). The twin camber in the profile makes a huge difference.
 

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I have come across quite a few post where the t.rice 157 is able to handle fine even at 200~ lbs in general conditions but your bit regarding deep pow is really a piece of valuable info, thank you. :D
Keep in mind that Hokkaido pow is nothing like PNW pow. It is basically a different planet.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Keep in mind that Hokkaido pow is nothing like PNW pow. It is basically a different planet.
Meaning we would need a longer board to replicate the same experience in PNW pow? assuming all thing being equal, same rider + same board, would a +2 cm suffice?
 

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Meaning we would need a longer board to replicate the same experience in PNW pow? assuming all thing being equal, same rider + same board, would a +2 cm suffice?
Again, it cannot be reduced to one variable. If anything, shape (in combination with profile) is the most important factor - there is a reason that boards designed in Hokkaido for riding in Hokkaido look like this or this....
 

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I used to have a skate banana 156 which was awesome in Niseko pow. On everything else, it was a bit sketchy. Made me realize that a stiffer board is more suitable for my style of riding, sold the banana and got the highlife.

Anyway, this might be a gross simplification but I was comparing in my mind how much of a powder bonus each side profile gives. According to my weight, a camber 161 should be a decent powder board ...
1. Full rocker = +5 cm (skate banana 156 = camber 161)
2. C-R-C = +3 cm (t.rice 157 = camber 160)
3. R-C-R = +2 cm (highlife 155 = camber 157)

I am guessing that the C-R-C profile is slightly better that the R-C-R profile in powder. Not sure about this though, would appreciate if anybody can enlighten me on this.

I did look at the Proto but I find it a bit too flexi. Is the heritage the stiff version of the Proto?
I agree with you...my 153 trice pro rides about the same as my old camber burton custom 156. Feels very simliar in length despite being smaller. Actually putting them side by side...they are almost the exact same length. Not sure how that makes sense but they are.
 

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I agree with you...my 153 trice pro rides about the same as my old camber burton custom 156. Feels very simliar in length despite being smaller. Actually putting them side by side...they are almost the exact same length. Not sure how that makes sense but they are.
I think it has something to do with the blunted nose and tail because I noticed that as well.
 
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