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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well, thanks to killclimbz, I am going to make my first splitboard. I had a few old boards around that I've beat on so I thought I would attempt this project.

Looking at the K2 panoramic splitboard specs, they looked pretty close to my K2 Brigade I had. The profile looked basically the same so this board became the donor. I really liked the way it rode anyway, so it seemed like the best choice. I've ordered the Voile DIY kit, but don't have it yet, so this project will take a few weeks.

Here is the board laid out with the centerline and tape showing where I want the bindings. I taped the topsheet as well to try to prevent any splintering. I doubt it would anyway, but good practice regardless.
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Here is the base with the centerline.
IMG_1368.JPG IMG_1369.JPG
Here are the edges getting cut with a metal cutting bandsaw.
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cont.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Here is the setup I used sawing it in half. I do metalworking, so I always have a bunch of steel tubing laying around. I used a piece of flat stock for the nose and tail. Cutting went off without a hitch.
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Here are the 2 halves, in dining room touring mode.
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Here is my end of the work for the day.
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More work and photos to come in the next week or so. I will file the base edge and round the tips. And wait for my DIY kit to arrive.

Jason
 

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Looks good. Keen to see how it works on the slopes. Where you planning to splitboard?
 

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Looks awesome. With your metal working skills I am sure you could insert an edge if you wanted. Otherwise, clean up the cut, and start sealing that bitch. I believe most use epoxy and then maybe add a poly urethane at the end. Evidently the edge will soak up a ton of epoxy. I am sure you know this, but just in case. Use a flexible epoxy with as low as a temperature rating as you can find.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Looks good. Keen to see how it works on the slopes. Where you planning to splitboard?
Thanks. I'm building it for when I go to Colorado next spring but I will probably try it out on my home hill here in Indiana. I'm gonna try to ride it down and skin back up the hill for practice before I go out west. Not sure how well it will work, but it should at least get used to how it works before I get to the mountains.

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Looks awesome. With your metal working skills I am sure you could insert an edge if you wanted. Otherwise, clean up the cut, and start sealing that bitch. I believe most use epoxy and then maybe add a poly urethane at the end. Evidently the edge will soak up a ton of epoxy. I am sure you know this, but just in case. Use a flexible epoxy with as low as a temperature rating as you can find.
Thanks killclimbz. I was contemplating putting an inside metal edge, but haven't researched it enough yet. I might leave that for a better board that i'll split if this works out good.

I sanded the edges and beveled the base to a 45 degrees. Pictures don't show anything, so I didn't load those. Here are the tips rounded.
IMG_1375.jpg

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I decided to just go with spar urethane to seal the inside edges. I researched here and splitboard.com until my head hurt. Lots of discussion about epoxy, urethane, metal edges, etc. For my first splitboard, I decided I would go the easier route and see how it holds up. I ok with some maintenance on the edge as I will only use it a few times a year. I put 4 coats on and sanded it smooth with 400 then 600 grit sandpaper.

I'm done with this until Friday when my DIY kit comes in. However, I found printable templates on the voile site. Should I wait for the kit, or will the printed templates be just fine? I set the scale to 100%, but I'm worried it isn't perfect. I probably should wait, not like I'm going split boarding tomorrow.

What would everyone advise about using the universal pucks rather than the DIY pucks? I'm sure adjustability is nice, but I've ridden +15, -15 for quite a while so I don't think that would change for BC. However, I really haven't ridden any BC, so maybe it would be better to have the ability to change stance angles and setback. I realize I'll have to drill quite a few more holes if I go with universal pucks, but I'm ok with that.

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, I stopped being a dumbass on the printable templates and just measured them. The pivoting hook holes are exactly 0.75" and the tail clip holes are exactly 1.00". So I believe that they are to the correct scale as I printed the pattern for the holes for using the universal pucks from firstlightsnowboards.com with the measurements on them and they came out correct as well.

One more question, what is the standard dimension for the width between the holes on a standard split board? The patterns I found have 2 options, 3.34" and 3.375". I have researched, but obviously I'm not searching correctly because I cannot find this dimension. I realize the difference is minimal at 0.025", but I want to get it right if I do go this route.

Jason
 

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universal pucks for sure. You don't want to be stuck with an uncomfortable stance. and you might eventually buy a factory split and that's 50 bucks less you will have to spend.
 

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You stance is fine. That is exactly what I rock. A duck stance lets you squat low to the ground. A handy thing in tight trees.

As far as pucks go. That is up to you. I think with the diy pucks you have more fasten points. If not than it is preference. You will have to re drill regardless of which style you use. There is not much adjustability without moving the pucks.
 

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One more question, what is the standard dimension for the width between the holes on a standard split board? The patterns I found have 2 options, 3.34" and 3.375".
Jason
It really doesnt matter which one you use, I used the wider measurement on my DIY. If you use the smaller measurement its just a matter of rotating the inner disc on the puck 180 degrees.
Both work exactly the same.

IMO the best method is to get an undrilled puck from firstlight and use 2 of the 4x4 holes and drill one extra t nut on the outside. This reduces the number of holes you put in the board by 4 and you actually have 4 more screws holding the pucks down
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
It really doesnt matter which one you use, I used the wider measurement on my DIY. If you use the smaller measurement its just a matter of rotating the inner disc on the puck 180 degrees.
Both work exactly the same.

IMO the best method is to get an undrilled puck from firstlight and use 2 of the 4x4 holes and drill one extra t nut on the outside. This reduces the number of holes you put in the board by 4 and you actually have 4 more screws holding the pucks down
My only issue with using Adam's pucks is the Brigade only has a 4X4 pattern on the board. It looks like one of the halves of the pucks needs to use a 2X4 hole. If I use a 15/-15 stance, will I have enough puck to use the 4X4 holes on both halves of both pucks? Hopefully you understand what I mean, that sounds stupid when I read it back.

I'm probably over thinking this for my first splitboard. I may just use the DIY pucks and see how the board turns out. If I really like it, I will cut a more specific pow board go all out with inside edges and Adam's pucks.

Thanks,

Jason
 

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It will work. There is no reason you have to avoid the outer section of the puck because the screw gets countersunk anyway.
Like i did here. That is 4x4 @ 18 degrees
 

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Discussion Starter #15
It will work. There is no reason you have to avoid the outer section of the puck because the screw gets countersunk anyway.
Like i did here. That is 4x4 @ 18 degrees
Thanks ETM. I may go that route. Did you mill that piece in your picture or is that from Adam West? I am considering buying some delrin and milling them myself. It's probably no cheaper to do it myself, I just like making crap.

Jason
 

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I got the blank off adam but you can easily make it from scratch if you know what you are doing. It machines really easy but makes a lot of mess lol
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I got the blank off adam but you can easily make it from scratch if you know what you are doing. It machines really easy but makes a lot of mess lol
I went ahead and bought the pucks from Adam. I decided to support a guy doing the leg work rather than me just copying what he is doing and he gets nothing out of it. What a good samaritan I am, huh?

Anyway, here is my progress from today. Stickers on for the chinese hooks, center punched and ready to drill.
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Chinese hooks installed.
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Tip clip installed.
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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Rivets smashed
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Chinese hook hardware on the base
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T-Nuts prior to expoxy.
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The far right one I tried to use the forstner bit in the drill press. Didn't work, so I went with the 3/4" wood boring bit for the remaining. Worked much better.
IMG_1391.JPG

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Cool project. You going to use that on powder days at Perfect North? Perhaps hike the north face and drop in.


Krug
 
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