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I have five boards. So five sets of bindings. Really, I’ve gone through more than that because I’ve tossed some bindings.

Ride El Hefe and LTD

Ride bindings look good on paper. They even look good on the shelf, and they look good on the board. They strap in easily, they’re responsive, etc.

But they have one fatal flaw. The design of the nut and bolt that hold the straps and ladders is such that every time you move a strap or ladder forward or back, the nut and bolt tighten or loosen. This is because there’s no washer or anything filling a similar function to do the rotating around the bolt. The strap is connected to the bolt head, and the nut is connected to the base.

Eventually, as I have found out on two separate sets of bindings, the threads get stripped and the strap or ladder falls off. Usually at the top of the chairlift, because at the base would be too easy.

Anyway, I’ve looked at other Ride bindings, and they all seem to have this design issue. Total fail.

Recommendation: Avoid

Rome Targa and D.O.D.

I really like the Rome bindings. They have the 5-degree canting foot-bed, which I use and yes you can feel the difference. The straps can be quick-adjusted even on the slopes, if you have the finger strength. Those suckers are on there. And they have, IMO, the easiest ratchets to work with.

They also have what I call retraction straps (I’m sure Rome has another name for them) which are basically elastic straps that connect to the ankle strap and toe strap and pull them out of the way when you unbuckle. It’s a cool idea, and does actually work, but it has one fatal flaw: the strap connects to a little tab on the adjustment buckles in such a way that it applies torque that tends to pull open that buckle. It only happened once to me with the Targas, and I found my ankle strap, but once is more than enough.

Fortunately, you can leave them unconnected, and the bindings act just like any other.

I actually think this is a great idea that, with a little re-engineering, could be a huge selling feature.

Recommendation: Buy

Union Force and Contact Pro

These are nice bindings, generally. I don’t like the fact that you have to unscrew the straps to adjust them, though. And they don’t have the Rome 5-degree canting. Sorry, I know it sounds like a little thing, but I have a relatively wide stance and I can feel the boots digging into the inside of my calves with the Unions. If your stance isn’t so wide, it’s probably a non-issue.

The Unions don’t have the retraction straps, which is no loss, really. But I find I have to put a lot more effort into getting the ladders into the ratchets, which really is kind of a downer.

But once you’re strapped in, they’re as good as any.

Recommendation: Cautious buy.
 

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I have five boards. So five sets of bindings. Really, I’ve gone through more than that because I’ve tossed some bindings.

Ride El Hefe and LTD

Ride bindings look good on paper. They even look good on the shelf, and they look good on the board. They strap in easily, they’re responsive, etc.

But they have one fatal flaw. The design of the nut and bolt that hold the straps and ladders is such that every time you move a strap or ladder forward or back, the nut and bolt tighten or loosen. This is because there’s no washer or anything filling a similar function to do the rotating around the bolt. The strap is connected to the bolt head, and the nut is connected to the base.

Eventually, as I have found out on two separate sets of bindings, the threads get stripped and the strap or ladder falls off. Usually at the top of the chairlift, because at the base would be too easy.

Anyway, I’ve looked at other Ride bindings, and they all seem to have this design issue. Total fail.

Recommendation: Avoid

Rome Targa and D.O.D.

I really like the Rome bindings. They have the 5-degree canting foot-bed, which I use and yes you can feel the difference. The straps can be quick-adjusted even on the slopes, if you have the finger strength. Those suckers are on there. And they have, IMO, the easiest ratchets to work with.

They also have what I call retraction straps (I’m sure Rome has another name for them) which are basically elastic straps that connect to the ankle strap and toe strap and pull them out of the way when you unbuckle. It’s a cool idea, and does actually work, but it has one fatal flaw: the strap connects to a little tab on the adjustment buckles in such a way that it applies torque that tends to pull open that buckle. It only happened once to me with the Targas, and I found my ankle strap, but once is more than enough.

Fortunately, you can leave them unconnected, and the bindings act just like any other.

I actually think this is a great idea that, with a little re-engineering, could be a huge selling feature.

Recommendation: Buy

Union Force and Contact Pro

These are nice bindings, generally. I don’t like the fact that you have to unscrew the straps to adjust them, though. And they don’t have the Rome 5-degree canting. Sorry, I know it sounds like a little thing, but I have a relatively wide stance and I can feel the boots digging into the inside of my calves with the Unions. If your stance isn’t so wide, it’s probably a non-issue.

The Unions don’t have the retraction straps, which is no loss, really. But I find I have to put a lot more effort into getting the ladders into the ratchets, which really is kind of a downer.

But once you’re strapped in, they’re as good as any.

Recommendation: Cautious buy.
I've had lots of RIDE bindings and I've never even had mine come loose.
Turn it one more rotation around, stop it where you would like it to stay.
You shouldn't ever really need to fuck with it again.

I've seen a few peoples straps flopping around.
Tighten that shit up people.
You wouldn't leave any other screw on your bindings that loose
Why would you leave your straps that loose.

You did mention about one of the other brands that " if you have the finger strength"
Put your shoulder into it:embarrased1:


I pick RIDE way over UNION


TT
 

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I have five boards. So five sets of bindings. Really, I’ve gone through more than that because I’ve tossed some bindings.

Ride El Hefe and LTD

Ride bindings look good on paper. They even look good on the shelf, and they look good on the board. They strap in easily, they’re responsive, etc.

But they have one fatal flaw. The design of the nut and bolt that hold the straps and ladders is such that every time you move a strap or ladder forward or back, the nut and bolt tighten or loosen. This is because there’s no washer or anything filling a similar function to do the rotating around the bolt. The strap is connected to the bolt head, and the nut is connected to the base.

Eventually, as I have found out on two separate sets of bindings, the threads get stripped and the strap or ladder falls off. Usually at the top of the chairlift, because at the base would be too easy.

Anyway, I’ve looked at other Ride bindings, and they all seem to have this design issue. Total fail.

Recommendation: Avoid

Rome Targa and D.O.D.

I really like the Rome bindings. They have the 5-degree canting foot-bed, which I use and yes you can feel the difference. The straps can be quick-adjusted even on the slopes, if you have the finger strength. Those suckers are on there. And they have, IMO, the easiest ratchets to work with.

They also have what I call retraction straps (I’m sure Rome has another name for them) which are basically elastic straps that connect to the ankle strap and toe strap and pull them out of the way when you unbuckle. It’s a cool idea, and does actually work, but it has one fatal flaw: the strap connects to a little tab on the adjustment buckles in such a way that it applies torque that tends to pull open that buckle. It only happened once to me with the Targas, and I found my ankle strap, but once is more than enough.

Fortunately, you can leave them unconnected, and the bindings act just like any other.

I actually think this is a great idea that, with a little re-engineering, could be a huge selling feature.

Recommendation: Buy

Union Force and Contact Pro

These are nice bindings, generally. I don’t like the fact that you have to unscrew the straps to adjust them, though. And they don’t have the Rome 5-degree canting. Sorry, I know it sounds like a little thing, but I have a relatively wide stance and I can feel the boots digging into the inside of my calves with the Unions. If your stance isn’t so wide, it’s probably a non-issue.

The Unions don’t have the retraction straps, which is no loss, really. But I find I have to put a lot more effort into getting the ladders into the ratchets, which really is kind of a downer.

But once you’re strapped in, they’re as good as any.

Recommendation: Cautious buy.
What ever happened to those crappy ole El-Hefe bindings you don't like?

I have an empty garbage can you can toss em into:embarrased1:


TT
 

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I have the 17/18 LTDs and while I do not like the design of the ladders, it's functional. My gripe stems from the need to take the whole binding off the board to replace ladders which leads me to my next point:

I've blown through 5 toe ladders on my back right toe(ride regular). Has anybody else had this issue? I'll literally throw a new ladder on at the beginning of the day, and by lunch its thrashed. Am I tightening too tight? Could this be caused by a faulty ratchet? I've contacted ride multiple times without much help.
 

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Their ladders dont snap, but they are softer. Hate to pull the whole Steve Jobs, you're doing It wrong and it's your fault our shit ain't working, but I have never had an issue with Ride or K2 ladders/ratchets. You're likely adding a twisting manor to your ratcheting motion causing only a portion of the teeth to engage the ladder, stripping it. Try to pay attention to how your pressuring it. Also, ask ride for new toe straps and the new new ratchets. They're on a pivot bar system that eliminates and twisting of the ratchet in its housing so you can't not engage the whole width of ladder rungs. They're dope.
 

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I have five boards. So five sets of bindings. Really, I’ve gone through more than that because I’ve tossed some bindings.

Ride El Hefe and LTD

Ride bindings look good on paper. They even look good on the shelf, and they look good on the board. They strap in easily, they’re responsive, etc.

But they have one fatal flaw. The design of the nut and bolt that hold the straps and ladders is such that every time you move a strap or ladder forward or back, the nut and bolt tighten or loosen. This is because there’s no washer or anything filling a similar function to do the rotating around the bolt. The strap is connected to the bolt head, and the nut is connected to the base.

Eventually, as I have found out on two separate sets of bindings, the threads get stripped and the strap or ladder falls off. Usually at the top of the chairlift, because at the base would be too easy.

Anyway, I’ve looked at other Ride bindings, and they all seem to have this design issue. Total fail.

Recommendation: Avoid

Rome Targa and D.O.D.

I really like the Rome bindings. They have the 5-degree canting foot-bed, which I use and yes you can feel the difference. The straps can be quick-adjusted even on the slopes, if you have the finger strength. Those suckers are on there. And they have, IMO, the easiest ratchets to work with.

They also have what I call retraction straps (I’m sure Rome has another name for them) which are basically elastic straps that connect to the ankle strap and toe strap and pull them out of the way when you unbuckle. It’s a cool idea, and does actually work, but it has one fatal flaw: the strap connects to a little tab on the adjustment buckles in such a way that it applies torque that tends to pull open that buckle. It only happened once to me with the Targas, and I found my ankle strap, but once is more than enough.

Fortunately, you can leave them unconnected, and the bindings act just like any other.

I actually think this is a great idea that, with a little re-engineering, could be a huge selling feature.

Recommendation: Buy

Union Force and Contact Pro

These are nice bindings, generally. I don’t like the fact that you have to unscrew the straps to adjust them, though. And they don’t have the Rome 5-degree canting. Sorry, I know it sounds like a little thing, but I have a relatively wide stance and I can feel the boots digging into the inside of my calves with the Unions. If your stance isn’t so wide, it’s probably a non-issue.

The Unions don’t have the retraction straps, which is no loss, really. But I find I have to put a lot more effort into getting the ladders into the ratchets, which really is kind of a downer.

But once you’re strapped in, they’re as good as any.

Recommendation: Cautious buy.

Ok I have officially seen almost every screw loose on a pair of SPI's.

I noticed the heel cup was wiggling on one of them, so I tightened it up.
Figured I'd check everything else, usually I don't.

Every single screw was loose, one close the coming out.

I can't believe the previous owner didn't know(didn't care) these were loose?

I've never had a single screw come loose on any of the RIDE bindings I've had.
I tweak each & every pair I get though, so I end up tightening every screw on em before I end up using them.

That would explain why I personally never have had a loose screw:wink:

I guess whoever's putting them together when they leave the factory, isn't very strong?

Once you do each one up tight, right when you get them.
You shouldn't ever have one come loose.

If you're riding the stock out if the box setup (sans tweaks)
Then you should definitely go right now and tighten them up.
If you have soft little girl hands, you might need to get someone else to do it haha.

After that rotate the straps one more time around, so when they stop, they don't move one little bit.

Not a design flaw.
Any binding with screws is gonna come loose if the person tightening them at the factory has weaker hands than a 9 year old girl.


T(man hands)T
 

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I believe all Union binding screws have loctite on them so I never have to tighten them even after 150 days.
The only ones have come loose are the 4 screws on the disc after removing them a couple of times for waxing.
I now don't remove my bindings for waxing. I just take some plastic bag and cover them.
 
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