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I bought a NS Raptor end of last season. Unfortunately its delivery was delayed and I only got to ride her for one morning before I had to pack her up until next season. We were in a rush, so I only quickly wiped it down before throwing it in the bag and into the van (naughty!). My mate stored it in France for me the past 5 weeks before bringing back London (where I live) a couple of days ago in his van.

When I opened the bag, what I can only assume is rust has appeared around the edges, mainly at the ends of the board, I've scratched what I can off with my fingernails (it only appears to be a thin layer) but there is still some left. What can I do about this? I assume rust is the enemy, and as long as rust exists on my board it is in danger :eek:

As an aside, I know you are supposed to put a coat of wax on a board before storing it between seasons, but I figured given it was a new board that I only rode for a couple of hours its factory wax would be fine for this purpose. Is that a safe assumption?
 

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If you are really worried, run it into a ski/snowboard shop, and get them to sharpen the edges and wax the board for storage...

I wouldn't stress so much, it is going to be surface rust and most peoples boards will suffer that...

Alternatively you can buy an edge sharpening tool, which will do it for about £30 and is easy enough to use, once you know how to do it...

If you are South London, try dropping it into Finches in Forest Hill, they are good, i take all my boards there for repair at the end of every season, and i live in Norway... ;)
 

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A little surface rust isn't that big of a deal. Take a gummy stone to it and it'll come right off.

As far as the wax job goes... the factory wax job isn't very substantial. I will always give my deck a hot wax even if it's brand new and fresh out of the plastic sleeve. In addition, the hot wax job you should lay down when prepping the deck for storage should be a good thick coat to protect it from drying out. This will also protect your edges.
 

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omg that thing is so fucked, I would warranty it with NS asap, I heard they have a great program....:sarcasm:


seriously though just a slightly more abrasive like steel wool or something just a little more oomf than what you used and it will come off. It would be gone in a session but if you live somewhere humid it can't hurt to get rid of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks very much for the quick replies guys.

Will get a scrubber to get rid of the rust just in case, and might get an extra coat of thick wax to stop it drying out while I'm at it.

Regarding edges, this board has vario grip, which as I understand it adds a waviness to the edge to increase grip. My older boards didn't have this fancy edge technology. Is this baked into the board or is it only on the metal edge itself? Can vario grip be distorted / ruined by getting my board edged? ie. When the time comes, do I have to take it to some special place to have it edged, or is the process the same.
 

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It's the edge. Look at from the nose down and you should see the contact points. Similar to magne traction but more subtle. As long as a shop is aware if it they should have no problems.

I would beat the living hell out of that board before taking it in for a tune though. People should be horrified by the condition of your base.
 

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A little surface rust isn't that big of a deal. Take a gummy stone to it and it'll come right off.

As far as the wax job goes... the factory wax job isn't very substantial. I will always give my deck a hot wax even if it's brand new and fresh out of the plastic sleeve. In addition, the hot wax job you should lay down when prepping the deck for storage should be a good thick coat to protect it from drying out. This will also protect your edges.
+1, although I would just ignore the rust. If you really hate it use the approach above.

Consider boards with stainless edges, no rust and they hold their edge better.
 

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Thanks very much for the quick replies guys.

Will get a scrubber to get rid of the rust just in case, and might get an extra coat of thick wax to stop it drying out while I'm at it.
Brillo pad or similar should work for the rust. If that does not get it off, escalate to gummy stone or, worst case, to an edge sharpener/file (but you are likely to take off more edge material that way).

And boards do not dry out.

+1, although I would just ignore the rust. If you really hate it use the approach above.

Consider boards with stainless edges, no rust and they hold their edge better.
Nope. Stainless steel, while good stuff for snowboard edges for other reason, is actually not particularly hard compared to many other types of steel, so does not hold an edge all that well.
 

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Brillo pad or similar should work for the rust. If that does not get it off, escalate to gummy stone or, worst case, to an edge sharpener/file (but you are likely to take off more edge material that way).

And boards do not dry out.



Nope. Stainless steel, while good stuff for snowboard edges for other reason, is actually not particularly hard compared to many other types of steel, so does not hold an edge all that well.
I like the brillo pad idea, better than gummy stone.

For sure there are non stainless steels out there that are harder than stainless but are those found on snowboard edges? My suspicion would be not, I think that in the snowboard world stainless would be a harder steel than the non stainless used on boards. My experience has been that snowboards with stainless edges hold an edge better than those without stainless metal in edges.
 
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