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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all. Quick tuning question. Most guides and videos I've seen about rubbing with Scotch Brite pad after scraping say something along the lines of rub like crazy, vigorously etc. Should I be rubbing until I see no more wax being picked up in the pad? It seems like I've been rubbing like crazy, and the base looks more dry, but still seeing white being picked up by the pad.
 

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Hello all. Quick tuning question. Most guides and videos I've seen about rubbing with Scotch Brite pad after scraping say something along the lines of rub like crazy, vigorously etc. Should I be rubbing until I see no more wax being picked up in the pad? It seems like I've been rubbing like crazy, and the base looks more dry, but still seeing white being picked up by the pad.
Scotch Brite it till you have a nice smooth surface throughout or you get bored (whichever is shorter). Then scrub the base lengthwise with a nylon brush to create channels in any remaining wax. Go ride... no need to overthink it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ha sounds like a plan. First time doing this myself so not sure what to look for or what looks like right/wrong.
 

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My thinking in using a scotchbrite pad is whatever work you've done will be gone in the first 10 seconds of riding. It does make the board look nice but you dont want to rub to much wax off. Just rub until the whole base looks even and clean.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok so I guess what I'm getting at is can you over do the scotch Brite to the point where you will get rid of the work you just did with the hot wax? Bc my base looks kinda dry now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I don't spend more than about a minute or two at most polishing with the Scotch Brite. Don't press hard and always run it lengthwise tip to tail down the board not across.

I am getting the best results in PMW wet heavy snow by scraping until there are no heavy wax deposits on the base, then using a brass brush lengthwise down the board 5-10 passed to put some aggressive structure on the base. I finish up by using the nylon then horse hair brush and finally a very light pass with the Scotch Brite. When done, my base is glossy and has thousands of tiny longitudinal surface scratches in the thin wax layer on the base. These scratches act as mico channels to allow water to flow under the base without creating surface tension that creates that sticky sucking feeling from wet snow.
Ok based on that I definitely over did it. Scraped until no wax would come off and then pressed hard with scotch Brite until nothing was coming off. Round 2!
 

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Ok based on that I definitely over did it. Scraped until no wax would come off and then pressed hard with scotch Brite until nothing was coming off. Round 2!
You are on the right track with scraping. Scrape till its not picking up any more wax. Following that a quick couple passes with the brass brush, followed by nylon followed by a quick longitudinal polish with the scotchbrite. For me has worked wonders. Just pissed cause I ran out of graphite and had to throw some normal One Ball on it this last tune. Time to get to the store.
 

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Oh and I noticed that in SoCals hardpack I can get about 3 riding days till I can feel its time for a new coat. Part of the reason I like graphite is the ugly black look...easy to tell when it starts getting thin, thus time to reapply.
 

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I too had a tendency to over use the Scotch Brite pad when I first started waxing my own board. Then I started keep my scraper sharper and utilizing brushes, and now I have my best results using the Scotch Brite as just a finishing touch at the very end. And generally you want to do this very lightly and quickly.
 

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I too had a tendency to over use the Scotch Brite pad when I first started waxing my own board. Then I started keep my scraper sharper and utilizing brushes, and now I have my best results using the Scotch Brite as just a finishing touch at the very end. And generally you want to do this very lightly and quickly.
Which is why I switched to a steel scraper. Stays sharper longer and is great for scraping that graphite off.
 

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The best wax jobs I do are the ones I do in a rush...

Scrape for about 30 seconds, just enough to get the base good and flat.

Bathroom pad (is that scotchbright?) for a couple passes over the base.

Stiff nylon brush a couple passes over the base tip to tail.

Done. After wax is cooled the finishing steps shouldn't take longer than about 5 mins a board, or you're doing too much. I'm down to probably about 2 mins a board.
 

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The best wax jobs I do are the ones I do in a rush...

Scrape for about 30 seconds, just enough to get the base good and flat.

Bathroom pad (is that scotchbright?) for a couple passes over the base.

Stiff nylon brush a couple passes over the base tip to tail.

Done. After wax is cooled the finishing steps shouldn't take longer than about 5 mins a board, or you're doing too much. I'm down to probably about 2 mins a board.
It definitely takes me longer than 30 seconds to scrape. I find the better I scrape the faster it is, and the longer it seems to last. Oh and are you implying you scrape while warm? Because that is a great way to clean grit and dirt out of your base, as scraping warm will dig out the old stuff from the grooves.
 

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Unless you race or only ride in fluffy light powder there is no need to use scotch brite pads or brushes, it is a complete waste of time. On groomed runs the effects will be gone before you are halfway through your first run. The amount of useless knowledge spread by the "core members" on this forum is off the fucking chart.
 

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Well there you have it. Disregard every helpful tip on here...As its a waste of time. In fact...dont even bother. Wax is useless, as its just gone as soon as you tell your board you are headed up the hill.
 

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It definitely takes me longer than 30 seconds to scrape. I find the better I scrape the faster it is, and the longer it seems to last. Oh and are you implying you scrape while warm? Because that is a great way to clean grit and dirt out of your base, as scraping warm will dig out the old stuff from the grooves.
Yeah that was my point, scraping is good but no need to go nuts. Just scrape the damn base and move on, it's pretty clear when you've scraped enough and it should happen in less than a minute unless you're being overly cautious.

I don't scrape warm, and I don't clean my base because honestly I've never had dirt/grit in it. Maybe it's the spring slush that cleans it out before the season ends but I just wax over the old.

Unless you race or only ride in fluffy light powder there is no need to use scotch brite pads or brushes, it is a complete waste of time. On groomed runs the effects will be gone before you are halfway through your first run. The amount of useless knowledge spread by the "core members" on this forum is off the fucking chart.
Obviously you've never stood on top of a mountain in -20 degree weather stuck to the snow eh? Happened this year to me and kinda wigged me out. There is logic behind using the brushes however...
 

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How long it takes to scrape also depends on how much excess wax you apply and whether you loosen your bindings in my experience. Once you get the right amount of wax dialed, then it takes me 1-2 mins to get 90% of the wax off. Then I spend another 2-3 minutes getting that last bit off in the base indents if I'm going to bother brushing etc or I just say fuck it and leave it for a quicky job.
 

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Yeah that was my point, scraping is good but no need to go nuts. Just scrape the damn base and move on, it's pretty clear when you've scraped enough and it should happen in less than a minute unless you're being overly cautious.

I don't scrape warm, and I don't clean my base because honestly I've never had dirt/grit in it. Maybe it's the spring slush that cleans it out before the season ends but I just wax over the old.



Obviously you've never stood on top of a mountain in -20 degree weather stuck to the snow eh? Happened this year to me and kinda wigged me out. There is logic behind using the brushes however...
Yeah Im the cautious type. Using a steel scraper adds to the caution, as well as the time it takes to scrape graphite. Id say start to finish for tuning I take about an hour. Take the time to check for new gouges, and fill as necessary. Hot scrape if Im changing wax types or the drive home was really cruddy. Board gets dirty as shit on top of the car. But yeah, about an hour start to finish. Plus I enjoy the time to myself in the garage. Feel like Im actually accomplishing something, as well as time to kill a few Ranger IPAs!
 
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