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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Who is making it btw? Phénix, Venice, Bohème?

But yeah, I agree, if all you've ridden are B.Customs, there are a lot to try out there that are very different boards. An Otto is by no mean a B.Custom, far from it, let alone an Amplid UNW8. But then there's the pleasure of making your own custom board, that is a thing in itself!
Nah Etienne, c’est Clone ind en Ardèche. Je suis en Drôme. C’est vrai que je ne connais pas bcp de planches, mais louer c’est plus mon truc. Les loueur sont pénibles quand tu leur demande un truc particulier (expérience des skis). Ça fait un bail que j’ai mon matos et que ride de l’ouverture des pistes jusqu’à me faire jarter par les pisteurs. Elles me font pas rêver en plus toutes ces boards. Sauf les split boards ou une planche spécial peuf. Mais c’est une autre histoire. Un autre sport.

Pour info je vais à la journée dans des stations comme Val d’Isère, l’Alpes d’Huez, Villard de Lans, Chamrousse…

Yep ça sera ma planche c’est mon plaisir aussi.
C’est pour ça que la question de ce thread concerne le rayon de courbure et pas les boards. Enfin je vais faire un choix à un moment. Mais si je pouvais avoir encores des expériences de gens avec différents rayons, ça m’intéresse. J’affine ma compréhension un peu quoi…
J’oblige personne à répondre à mes questions bizarres !

PS : Ça me fait marrer d’écrire en français dans ce fil 😜
 

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This why I ask you guys If you ever rode big sidecut radius extra wide customized boards… and carved… good… not only on perfect snow and flat groomers... ?
I happen to have three custom built carvers with large sidecuts and waists of 30. Honestly, that width is extremely limiting for versatility. My customs ride conditions like what Knapton rides very well. Wide, open blue runs with great grooming. They don't like really hard snow, steeps, bumps, trees, etc. I've found the width to be the most limiting factor. Big sidecuts also make boards much less maneuverable. Steep and narrow trails just aren't what those kinds of boards are made for. Also, a little taper goes a long way to making a wide board with a big sidecut easier to turn. I've got a wide twin carver without taper, and it's really fun- just not very versatile.

What sidecut radius for hard carving on medium pitch slopes even in slushy conditions ?
That really comes down to how large of a turn you want to make. I ride 10, 12, and a couple of 14m sidecuts regularly. The bigger the sidecut, obviously the bigger the turn. I choose sidecuts sometimes based on how crowded the slopes are that day. Laying out a 14m sidecut demands a little space. 10m is more versatile while giving you a decent turn size.

Another concern I have with your listed specs is how heavy the board is going to be. I don't have any boards that wide and long. All that width gets pretty heavy. My custom carvers are all designed for softer conditions where you don't really need tons of effective edge for grip. With carving in softer conditions, I feel grip comes from the depth of the trench you're laying as much as how long the edge is. I love carving on wide boards around the 150 mark. I'm 6"3' and 225 pounds. My skinnier boards get longer.

Honestly, I think duck stance carving is extremely niche. The width required out of a deck is too extreme to be remotely versatile. I see Knapton's style as toe turn followed by switch toe turn so he rarely drops a heelside. Also, his duck heelsides look kinda wack to me. Dropping heelside carves are my favorite, and they can be quite beautiful to behold as well. Knapton looks like he's going to the bathroom or maybe power lifting.

For steeps, fast carving, and a little versatility, I really prefer riding directional boards with a directional stance. With a directional stance, I can use my angles to give me the clearance I need on pretty much any board. Taper costs you a little grip from the tail but gives you more maneuverability and versatility.

I love Amplid's centrifugal series with their Antiphase for steep and versatile fast carving. They're very damp while staying lively. This really helps with poor conditions and hard snow. Their sidecuts and width are both more manageable. I'm pretty sure their UNW8 would carve circles around a Custom- especially in adverse conditions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
I happen to have three custom built carvers with large sidecuts and waists of 30. Honestly, that width is extremely limiting for versatility. My customs ride conditions like what Knapton rides very well. Wide, open blue runs with great grooming. They don't like really hard snow, steeps, bumps, trees, etc. I've found the width to be the most limiting factor. Big sidecuts also make boards much less maneuverable. Steep and narrow trails just aren't what those kinds of boards are made for. Also, a little taper goes a long way to making a wide board with a big sidecut easier to turn. I've got a wide twin carver without taper, and it's really fun- just not very versatile.



That really comes down to how large of a turn you want to make. I ride 10, 12, and a couple of 14m sidecuts regularly. The bigger the sidecut, obviously the bigger the turn. I choose sidecuts sometimes based on how crowded the slopes are that day. Laying out a 14m sidecut demands a little space. 10m is more versatile while giving you a decent turn size.

Another concern I have with your listed specs is how heavy the board is going to be. I don't have any boards that wide and long. All that width gets pretty heavy. My custom carvers are all designed for softer conditions where you don't really need tons of effective edge for grip. With carving in softer conditions, I feel grip comes from the depth of the trench you're laying as much as how long the edge is. I love carving on wide boards around the 150 mark. I'm 6"3' and 225 pounds. My skinnier boards get longer.

Honestly, I think duck stance carving is extremely niche. The width required out of a deck is too extreme to be remotely versatile. I see Knapton's style as toe turn followed by switch toe turn so he rarely drops a heelside. Also, his duck heelsides look kinda wack to me. Dropping heelside carves are my favorite, and they can be quite beautiful to behold as well. Knapton looks like he's going to the bathroom or maybe power lifting.

For steeps, fast carving, and a little versatility, I really prefer riding directional boards with a directional stance. With a directional stance, I can use my angles to give me the clearance I need on pretty much any board. Taper costs you a little grip from the tail but gives you more maneuverability and versatility.

I love Amplid's centrifugal series with their Antiphase for steep and versatile fast carving. They're very damp while staying lively. This really helps with poor conditions and hard snow. Their sidecuts and width are both more manageable. I'm pretty sure their UNW8 would carve circles around a Custom- especially in adverse conditions.
First of all : thx thx thx 🙏

Runs are in are indeed crowded.
So I’ll go 10m sr or 11 maybe.

The weight is a factor I haven’t taken into consideration that much, your right.
So I’ll go with 29 ww.

150 for your 100kg ?!!!!
I truly, really don’t believe you.
I hurt my knees loosing grip on a 154 board… I weight 70 kilos with the backpack… Slipping straight down on ice because of the lack of effective edge, with razor sharp tuned edges.
This is nonsense to me.

I’ll be fine with 157 and 29 ww.

If I wanted versatility, I would just have bought a Bcustom or something. A Swiss Army knife board like someone said earlier. Oh wait ! I did.

My style is niche of course. I ride similarly to RK because I like what he does, he’s style and I personally find it beautiful and inspiring.
I like symmetry. Being able to do the exact same turn both switch and regular on the same run.

Duck stance and true symmetrical board are a must for me and I loved the good heelside turns I’ve made with my Bcustom. Don’t care if it looks a little silly for some. Like I said : no one carvs on softboots where I live. It’s already an improvement for my eyes sore of watching snowboarders sideslipping down all day long. It’s actually a very comfy position you should try it.

But thanks for the board advice, I’ll look into it in the future. UNW8, good, good. When I’ll be able to afford adding another board to my quiver… the lib tec golden orca also caught my gaze… and split boards and swallowtail boards…

You know I’m thinking about going alpine at some point… full positive stance and everything…

For now I’ll go with a dedicated duck softboot carver. It’s what I like to do. I found my sidecut radius thx to you and you helped me adjust my board measurements. Thx ! This thread is over.
 

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First of all : thx thx thx

Runs are in are indeed crowded.
So I’ll go 10m sr or 11 maybe.

The weight is a factor I haven’t taken into consideration that much, your right.
So I’ll go with 29 ww.

150 for your 100kg ?!!!!
I truly, really don’t believe you.
I hurt my knees loosing grip on a 154 board… I weight 70 kilos with the backpack… Slipping straight down on ice because of the lack of effective edge, with razor sharp tuned edges.
This is nonsense to me.

I’ll be fine with 157 and 29 ww.

If I wanted versatility, I would just have bought a Bcustom or something. A Swiss Army knife board like someone said earlier. Oh wait ! I did.

My style is niche of course. I ride similarly to RK because I like what he does, he’s style and I personally find it beautiful and inspiring.
I like symmetry. Being able to do the exact same turn both switch and regular on the same run.

Duck stance and true symmetrical board are a must for me and I loved the good heelside turns I’ve made with my Bcustom. Don’t care if it looks a little silly for some. Like I said : no one carvs on softboots where I live. It’s already an improvement for my eyes sore of watching snowboarders sideslipping down all day long. It’s actually a very comfy position you should try it.

But thanks for the board advice, I’ll look into it in the future. UNW8, good, good. When I’ll be able to afford adding another board to my quiver… the lib tec golden orca also caught my gaze… and split boards and swallowtail boards…

You know I’m thinking about going alpine at some point… full positive stance and everything…

For now I’ll go with a dedicated duck softboot carver. It’s what I like to do. I found my sidecut radius thx to you and you helped me adjust my board measurements. Thx ! This thread is over.
Sorry to disappoint you but this has turned into a carving thread. Carving threads don’t end until the season ends.


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I happen to have three custom built carvers with large sidecuts and waists of 30. Honestly, that width is extremely limiting for versatility. My customs ride conditions like what Knapton rides very well. Wide, open blue runs with great grooming. They don't like really hard snow, steeps, bumps, trees, etc. I've found the width to be the most limiting factor. Big sidecuts also make boards much less maneuverable. Steep and narrow trails just aren't what those kinds of boards are made for. Also, a little taper goes a long way to making a wide board with a big sidecut easier to turn. I've got a wide twin carver without taper, and it's really fun- just not very versatile.
This. Wide boards are fun in the right conditions. In the wrong conditions, they're terrible. If the snow's too firm, harder to drive into the edge and get high board angle. If terrain's too bumpy, the terrain effectively has a better lever and will buck you quite a bit more. Plus boards that wide tend to like space to breathe and open up the throttle and lay out... they feel constrained on narrower, crowded runs. Big reason I generally dissuade East Coasters in North America from buying Koruas unless they know what they're getting into.

In the Alps, you probably don't need to worry about space with so much terrain being above treeline. But with that much exposure and general Alpine conditions, firm conditions and bumps are likely par for course.
 

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There are some boards that offer big sidecuts with various radi making the sidecut. Ride Timeless, Commissioner, Smokescreen (essentially the same shapes) might be something you may want to try. My Timeless and Commissioner, with their 10M+ waist are super stable yet nimble when flicks are needed for line correction, etc.
I miss my old timeless. How damp is the Commissioner - how does it hold up in chop?
 

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Knapton looks like he's going to the bathroom or maybe power lifting.
I almost spit out my coffee this morning when I read this............but it's so true!! When I saw his logo/sticker for the first time I thought the guy was racing down the hill to take a dump.
 
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