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I had donek build me a board a few years back when I thought I had learned enough (i hadn't)
29.5 waist and vario 9.5 side cut, was not the board for me but it taught me a lot about how width,sidecut and flex all affect the board together, it was a lot of fun while I had it and was a slightly expensive lesson, but no ragrets
Snow Plant Sports equipment Tree Slope
 

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I had donek build me a board a few years back when I thought I had learned enough (i hadn't)
29.5 waist and vario 9.5 side cut, was not the board for me but it taught me a lot about how width,sidecut and flex all affect the board together, it was a lot of fun while I had it and was a slightly expensive lesson, but no ragrets
View attachment 164705
As someone contemplating the same, what didn't work?
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
I had donek build me a board a few years back when I thought I had learned enough (i hadn't)
29.5 waist and vario 9.5 side cut, was not the board for me but it taught me a lot about how width,sidecut and flex all affect the board together, it was a lot of fun while I had it and was a slightly expensive lesson, but no ragrets
View attachment 164705
what board length ?

and your height ?
Weight ?
Shoe size ?
Bindings ?
Style ?
 

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As someone contemplating the same, what didn't work?
I didn't realize how much width was gonna affect the flex, made it way too stiff, if I could do it again I would reduce waist, add slight taper, softer flex, about 5cm shorter length, but in perfect conditions that board could rip groomers, live and learn
 

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I didn't realize how much width was gonna affect the flex, made it way too stiff, if I could do it again I would reduce waist, add slight taper, softer flex, about 5cm shorter length, but in perfect conditions that board could rip groomers, live and learn
Thanks, I'm aiming at a slightly stiffer, cambered Lumberjack, so pretty much fits your description other than slightly tapered. I'm also a sasquatch.
 

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what board length ?

and your height ?
Weight ?
Shoe size ?
Bindings ?
Style ?
159
5'7
160lbs
Size 8
Now drives/ Flux X
Mostly freeride, sometimes hit the jump line
What I ride now- niseko pleasures, dancehaul, telos backslash, figured out the sweet spot for me waist wise was between 26-28cm at the waist, and that going too stiff is detrimental to lay down carving
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
159
5'7
160lbs
Size 8
Now drives/ Flux X
Mostly freeride, sometimes hit the jump line
What I ride now- niseko pleasures, dancehaul, telos backslash, figured out the sweet spot for me waist wise was between 26-28cm at the waist, and that going too stiff is detrimental to lay down carving
Size 8, So size M bindings ? Or S ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
I had donek build me a board a few years back when I thought I had learned enough (i hadn't)
29.5 waist and vario 9.5 side cut, was not the board for me but it taught me a lot about how width,sidecut and flex all affect the board together, it was a lot of fun while I had it and was a slightly expensive lesson, but no ragrets
View attachment 164705
And how did the sidecut felt ? What do you mean by vario 9,5 ?
 

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Not everyone has to like Knapton’s style but I haven’t seen yet any vid that is close to his style with eurocarving frontside, backside, all of that switch, plus having that stable mid air posture with 180/360/540s that looks like MFM

I went from a duck stance to ++ to figure it out how to lay it over on on the heeside edge (way easier). Then I went back to a slight duck that allows me to keep working on fs while still carving hard.
 

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Not everyone has to like Knapton’s style but I haven’t seen yet any vid that is close to his style with eurocarving frontside, backside, all of that switch, plus having that stable mid air posture with 180/360/540s that looks like MFM
I went from a duck stance to ++ to figure out how to lay it over on on the heeside edge with (way easier). Then I went back to a slight duck that allows me to keep working on fs while still carving hard.
I've ridden with him out in Breckenridge, he's an absolute monster on that board, following him around makes it even more impressive, not for everyone, but it takes massive skills
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
I've ridden with him out in Breckenridge, he's an absolute monster on that board, following him around makes it even more impressive, not for everyone, but it takes massive skills
Did you ride on steeps, trees, moguls with him ?
Did you see he was limited by the board despite his skills ?
Especially carving on medium to steeper terrains ?

It’s hard to guess the pitch of the slopes on which he carvs in the videos…

Because high skillcap board is what I’m looking for. A board to grow with. Even if it’s not versatile.
Trying hard is awesome (for me).
 

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Did you ride on steeps, trees, moguls with him ?
Did you see he was limited by the board despite his skills ?
Especially carving on medium to steeper terrains ?

It’s hard to guess the pitch of the slopes on which he carvs in the videos…

Because high skillcap board is what I’m looking for. A board to grow with. Even if it’s not versatile.
Trying hard is awesome (for me).
Nope he only rides perfect morning blue groomers or the steeper stuff on powder days
Yes the board will limit you, making sudden changes in direction gets hard, like a boat, don't even think about tight tree runs, tried it once, it was like a pinball machine, I couldn't get the board to turn before the next tree was on me, just dinging from tree to tree
Steeper is fine as long as the run is wide, if it's like a chute then it will suck ass because of width and big sidecut
But saying that, the stability on perfect groomers is another level , definitely worth the experience,
it's not a big deal having a specialty board thats only good at one or two things, most of us have powder boards that only get ridden a few days a season
 

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Most brands make the center of the board and the tips thinner now, so they flex with the surface when you lay it over. Variable sidecut in the tips on fx boardercross boards with rockered tips keep the effective edge with a smaller radius when you lay it over, sometimes different flex in the nose and tail so you have different radius. Mostly cambered boards like Nitro Team, can stop the board from lifting up from the snow at the middle or catching with contact points with a larger radius out at the tips. Of course weight and speed makes a difference.

Make a really wide board without adjusting flex and radius and you have something that you cant bend into a turn shape and the only effective edge you have is at the contact points, and then you lose grip, can feel like booting out. This is why some get a great benefit from extra contact points at the bindings. They get added training wheels, the bumps dig a little deeper when you dont flex the middle properly, plus it can make board a little stiffer under foot and so on, same as with the thickness.

Getting a board for carving based on just ww, one stiffness criteria and radial sidecut is a gamble. With length it gets hard to get the right flex too. Shorter boards can end up gripping better because you put more of the effective edge into the snow, while they are easier to twist torsionally and turn, but a properly made and ridden longer board should always win on edge hold (on a smooth surface).
 

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I can carve… having lots of practice growing up in the East with full camber boards… but I’m still in awe watching someone that has truly mastered it (more likely in videos than in person).

Do carvers make boards asymmetric with a slightly tighter heel side radius?

What sort of materials are they using? I imagine they have some stringers for longitudinal loading and maybe to dampen it a bit, but perhaps not much additional torsional rigidity as it’s already wide?

Would you do a true twin or add a little more stiffness to the tail for really bombing it? I haven’t seen much high speed (really high speed) carving in soft boots.
 
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