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Discussion Starter #1
So I learned to ride on a skate banana and recently grabbed a Never Summer Proto for a trip to the alps. I found that the tail of my NS Proto would sometimes 'Jam' and I'd have to flatten out and try to turn again. Usually when tired at slow speeds so I'm guessing this is a technique issue, rather than not detuning the tail or anything. I don't mean a downhill edge catch, it was like the back of the board said 'no, you can't turn now' and dug in. I'd not fall down, but just completely fail to turn.

Having that thought of the tail jamming is freaking scary on narrow paths with big drop offs down one side (the path to Creux in Courchevel was sketchy!). Being freaked out probably screwed my technique up even more!

So before I get out riding on the proto next, what should I be looking out for in my technique? My mate reckons straight front leg could have caused it when tired or just being lazy and you could get away with that sort of thing easier on a surfy skate banana. Anything else it could be? bend zee knees/don't lean back etc etc? :dunno:
 

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Coming from camber, I found the Proto rides the exact opposite of what you're describing. Maybe it's because it's not as loose as your skate banana, which I found to ride like a $10 whore.
 

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I've ridden the NS heritage and evo, and never found them "catchy". I'm sure someone with more experience with proper technique will chime in, but I'm guessing that's what it is, and btw I'm loving the evo so far.
 

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I have something like a 'dead spot' at neutral stance, where I have very little strength and have problems twisting the board. That makes foot steering on flat stuff when going slow really tough when I use a stiff binding with a stiff board (with a mid-flex binding I can get beyond that 'dead spot').

In that situation, I use little hop turns - works really well.
 

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Keep in mind that with the blunt tips, the Proto has a longer effective edge than the actual board length would imply. I found the first day or two out on my Proto that the tail edges (beyond my back binding) would stay engaged slightly longer than I was used to with my previous board.

It didn't take but a day or two of riding to adjust to it and compensate. I have no idea "how" I did, it is just stopped being an issue as I'm sure I made subtle unconscious adjustments.

MeanJoe
 

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I found the Proto to be much more "catchy" than my Evo. The Proto doesn't like to be ridden flat or lazy, keep it on edge, at least with a little pressure.
 

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definitely need to shift weight forward/center when initiating turns with RC/C2. Detuning does help with this though. Its a combination of the rocker profile and 0/0 base bevel. Consider getting it changed to 1/89 or 2/88 depending on your riding style.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Sounds like that's it, just got to get my weight in the right place and don't lock out my front knee when I'm getting tired.

On the whole though, the Proto rocked my world once I got some speed up. Felt stable (which compared to a nana isn't hard), did fine in deep powder and still was good for playing around on :) Just got to get in better shape now, altitude and adrenaline really take it out of you! :)

Edit:
So it's worth me de-tuning the back just past the effective edge?
 

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I detune the fuck out of my tips to at least an inch(if not 2) past the contact points. :dunno:
 

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Sounds like that's it, just got to get my weight in the right place and don't lock out my front knee when I'm getting tired.

On the whole though, the Proto rocked my world once I got some speed up. Felt stable (which compared to a nana isn't hard), did fine in deep powder and still was good for playing around on :) Just got to get in better shape now, altitude and adrenaline really take it out of you! :)

Edit:
So it's worth me de-tuning the back just past the effective edge?
Detune the front and the back. Similar behavior happens on the front especially in less than perfect snow. I detune to the contact points. Go to there first and then decide if it needs more.
 

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After riding the Evo, Proto and Cobra on a regular basis ... I dunno, last time my edge caught was when I did a shifty on a small roller and landed 90 :yahoo:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yeah, I did the front, but never got round to doing the back. Probably ought to both regardless since it's true twin. I'll man up and get my proto ready for my next outing and leave the jibstick at home :)

Offtopic, but love the topsheet on the Proto, it's bombproof :thumbsup:
 

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The 0/0 bevel and camber sections do catch a little. I didn't notice it coming from camber. But I went to Arbor rocker for a year and definitely notice it coming back to the Cobra.

Detune tip and tail, put a 1/89 bevel on it, smooth out the contact points (I don't detune it, I just take the sharpness out or just let natural riding detune it) helps on the NS boards in my opinion.

When you're tired at the end of the day and flat base and stand straight up the NS will remind you to get back into a correct stance or it's going to throw you. I rode the Cobra with no edge adjustments whatsoever on PNW hardpack borderline icebox, and it loves to find a hard groove and take you.

Heading to Mammoth in two weeks so I'm doing the above adjustments to see how it rides differently.
 

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I have noticed that the tail on the Proto is significantly catchier than the Evo and more so than the Heritage as well. Maybe something to do with the stiffer flex on a true twin? :dunno:

It's not as catchy as the Cobra though. That board is twitchy on groomers.

I never bothered to detune my Evo or Heritage, but the Proto definitely benefits from it.
 

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What sizes are you guys riding? Curious about the comparison between the evo and proto. The proto is definitely stiffer and more poppy then the evo, but I don't see the catchy side.

I ride a 150 evo and a 154 proto, 150lbs, 5'10.
 

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I have noticed that the tail on the Proto is significantly catchier than the Evo and more so than the Heritage as well. Maybe something to do with the stiffer flex on a true twin? :dunno:

It's not as catchy as the Cobra though. That board is twitchy on groomers.

I never bothered to detune my Evo or Heritage, but the Proto definitely benefits from it.
Noticed it a tiny tiny bit on the SL. A little worse on the Evo. Haven't ridden a proto but the Cobra is 5x worse. I could be lazy on the SL or Evo, not the Cobra.

Think the blunt edges and the stiffer flex might have something to do with it. I didn't need to change the SL, I put the Evo on a 1 degree bevel which helped (but with the 0 degree it was still fine). Going to definitely need it on the Cobra. IF it's still twitchy I'm probably going to get rid of it. I'm not a technical steep carving kind of guy and so I want to take the "edge" off so to speak.

I just pointed my buddy at a Proto 154 so I'll try that sucker out.
 

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154 '11 Proto and 154 '12 Evo, I weigh 175.

Even tho the whole board is stiffer, I think the Proto is softer in the press spots than the Evo now....(well the Proto has 100 days on her, the Evo only 6 or 7)
 

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I'm a little surprised that so many folks find the Cobra twitchy/catchy:icon_scratch: I rode a Heritage last year and felt like that board required more attention than the Cobra.

I just sharpened the edges (0*'s) on the Cobra this week as they were getting a bit dull:dunno:

155 Cobra - 5'9" 155lbs.
 

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154 '11 Proto and 154 '12 Evo, I weigh 175.

Even tho the whole board is stiffer, I think the Proto is softer in the press spots than the Evo now....(well the Proto has 100 days on her, the Evo only 6 or 7)
Yeah, your Proto is just well broken in. Both new, the Evo is much softer to press.
 
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