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The hardboot ride...downhill?

16461 Views 51 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  wrathfuldeity
Just some thoughts on riding in hardboots...since I haven't seen much but the statement that the ride down is less than desirable than with soft boots.

Thoughts on hardboot riding:
So currently have 6 days with hards-on...its like taking Viagra. Moi, 60yrs, 5”6”, 172 lbs (goal to get to 160), boot size 24 mondo, stance +15, -6, width 23.5, 17 seasons, gezzerily freeriding advanced a with the goal of getting off the hill, i.e., surviving in one piece after the day at Mt Baker.:eyetwitch:

Equipment:
Atomic Backland boots women’s non-carbon, mondo24, professionally heat moulded shells (highly recommended Frank at BackCountry Essentials), liners and bits of foam bits with Sole aftermarket insoles….socks are thin smart wool liners (not socks).

Amplid Creamer 163, self-cut diy split with pro inserts done by Johnny Lupo at Boardworks (highly recommended). Standard plastic K clips at the nose/tail and Sparks R&D CrossBars clamps.

Phantom Bindings, small, with the 3in1 cleats, their risers and the Dynafit tech toes.

Just a couple remarks about the board with Phantoms…frick’s outstanding…light, love creamer’s cam profile…it rips and with the Phamtoms and Spark Crossbars…it rides just like a solid. I had ridden ½ season on the Creamer as a solid with softboots 32 focus boas women 7.5 and some old metal Ride SPI’s and loved it…and then cut it in half on my tablesaw. :crazy3:

Hard boot fitting and mods:
Well the boots after the initial heat fitting, felt great in the shop…but on the hill there were immediate hot spots and heel lift. Back home and to the shop, did a few tweaks…better but still some spots and my foot did not have the locked down feeling…thus feeling abit discouraged, questioning my decision to go the hardboot route and thinking the reports were true, i.e., hard boots definitely had something to be desired when in ride mode. A two more days of bringing scissors, foam and bits of tape to the hill with trips to the lodge to do some cutting and adjustments…much improved. Lastly, at home, another 2-3 hours of fitment and sanding foam bits, final positioning, glue up of the foam bits to the liner and then covered with hurricane nylon tape. In general, the bits and pieces ended up being similar to all the mods that I’ve done to my soft boot liners (see the old pics to the liners in the boot faq thread, pics in link of the first post).

The Fitment:
So yesterday, spent the day with the set up…and it felt great, no taking the boots off, foot felt locked down, plenty of room for the toots, no hot spots, felt like my soft boot slippers but stiffer and more responsive. With the boots in ride mode, plastic tongue removed/not used, power strap was used but slack loose, leg cuff set comfortably but not cinched down for some room for play, (used a bit of foam on the liner’s tongue that helps push the foot back and keeps the heel in the pocket) and not using the liner’s lacing system. And the lower buckle hooked up. So basically, using the boot as it was designed. ***The 2 key pieces of fitment were getting the heel/ankle locked down with a ½ butterfly foam and using foam on the tongue’s liner to help push/keep the heel in to the pocket. So in general, when boots are tightened up there is plenty of room for the foot and the lower leg is snug. And then in the bent knee ride position the foot is pushed back in to the pocket.

The Boot Ride:
It is fantastic, the board runs like an arrow, straight and true. A ton of control and response, which I like and the adjustment time was about ½ day. On chopped terrain, there is a lot less wiggling and squirrling; the focus is more of absorption via sucking up the knees and riding low and attending to keeping your body’s stack and alignment flowing the line. Blasting groomers is a blast, the stiffness of the boot is confidence inspiring and assured. Heelside or toeside…just lean into the stiffness of the boot’s cuff and let it leverage your running edge and let the board run. A quick speed check and pop back on the running edge…no problem. Quick and short S turns and cross-unders are fast and again assured. As for big arching trenches….just initiate, set and feel the G’s suck you down. Within 3-4 runs I was blasting groomers an estimated 10mph faster, confidently and comfortably hitting 60 mph. A few more runs and was able to keep up and pass some of skiers in the crew…letting the board run to its capacity and then being able to play with drag, i.e., standing up to slow down or squat/tuck to reduce air drag…this was on day 4 and the boots were hurting from pressure points on the instep, hotspot on the ankle bone and with some significant heel lift. But, it was fun blasting the fall line, stand straight up and then getting ready to go airborne over the rollers. Day 5 was spent doing a run or 2 and then going back in to the lodge and making adjustments with scissors, foam and tape and then going back out for a run or two. The this past week spent an afternoon’s 2-3 hours doing the final tweaking. Yesterday’s 5-6 inches of fresh dry powder at 21 degrees F…only issue is the bigness of yer smile…whether hitting groomed to the next pow pactch, aggressively hitting off piste steeps of hairy scary, lower chicken ridge, upper gunner’s or gabl’s. The boots stayed on all day. The buckles were unlatched for 30 minute lunch and then just quickly re-buckled and ready to ride the rest of the afternoon….it was easier and more comfortable than loosening the inter laces and boas of the 32 and then re-tightening it all.

The Cons:
Price of entry is steep for the Atomic Backlands (found the prior year’s for 50% discount), Amplid Creamer (found a prior years solid board that was a lightly used demo for 50% discount). And the prior years Phantom binding system for 30% discount (due to the seller had purchased smalls and they were a tad too small). All this cheapness took about 1 year and I had to wait for a set of 3in1 cleats because they were sold out and due to the Creamer being a diy split :facepalm1:.

On heelside, there is a bit of calf bite, especially on long heelside traverses, but otherwise its not noticeable perhaps due to having fun otherwise.

As for boot fitting and mods…I haven’t felt there is any reason for major mods of cutting down cuffs, making slits for increasing lateral flex; but there is a commitment and perseverance that is required to get the fitment dialed in. it took 6 days of riding (the first 4 were painful), an initial 1 hour bootfitter heating and modding, aftermarket insoles, 2nd trip to the boot fitters for some major foam mods…from C’s to L’s (even tried a heel lift…NO) and then a 3rd trip for half butterflies and then 2 days of diy on mtn fitting with foam and scissors and lastly, 2-3 hours of at home final adjustments. Yesterday’s the boots were fitting like golden slippers. However, I’m expecting the liners to pack out a bit more and the plan is then to up my socks from thin merino liners to smartwool phd ultra light socks and/or maybe use/re-insert the plastic tongues or perhaps a 1/8” boot shim under the liner.

The Summary:
I am a fan of the Atomic Backland (non carbon) hardboots. If you can afford and don’t mind the price of entry…there is a significate increase in performance and with some determination these boots were able to be modded to fit like and perform better than my softboots. So at least for me, been able to dispel the thought that the hardboot ride down is less than using soft boots. Infact thinking about how to convert my resort boards to using the Atomic non carbon Backlands.

Side notes:
Instead of the Phantom Alpha Ride system a person could go with their current solid board, use the One Binding solid puck system and use the Spark tesla Dyna DH hardboot bindings. Thus kind of looking to pick up some Spark Dyna DH to use on my solid boards and an old alpine race board.

Also the Phantom system, has tight tolerances; in transitioning from tour to ride mode, you have to make sure your board halves are lined up perfectly, otherwise the plates will not rotate on to the cleats. And there is the rear foot heelside bail that is a tad of a pain, in that when you go to clamp in, the rear bail tends to fall/drop/not catch and it takes 1-2 times to make sure you got the bail caught. To which I’ve been thinking of wrapping the bail with a piece of rubberized electrical/wiring tape, the part that fits under the block or perhaps seeing if the bail/to block could be spot welded for a more permanent solution.

In researching, the SplitBoard Fourm, there are some ideas to make the Atomic Backland highback latch to be progressive on heelside from a “hard stop” to spring loaded and also being a progressive forward flex…and also a having an adjustable forward lean with the latch (…haven’t seen it but it is rumored that Phantom is tinkering with an aftermarket latch that will work on the Atomic Backland boots). Any it will be interesting to see what they develop and it could be a nice thing…but not a necessity.

I’d recommend considereing the new Phantom/Sparks colab tech toes instead of the Dynafit tech toes due to less parts and re-inforced areas.

Anyway moi 2 cents :hairy:
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Nice write up. I especially like the part about “passing the skiers.”
Excellent write up. Thanks.

I going to get a ration of shit for this question, and you might not know the answer, but with all the boot mods you’ve done could you still use them as AT boots with skis, you know, if someone put a gun to your head and made you ski?

Also, I assume the uphill travel is significantly more stable laterally than with soft boots?
Excellent write up. Thanks.

I going to get a ration of shit for this question, and you might not know the answer, but with all the boot mods you’ve done could you still use them as AT boots with skis, you know, if someone put a gun to your head and made you ski?

Also, I assume the uphill travel is significantly more stable laterally than with soft boots?
Oh yea, can still ski, tour and ride. So if yer one of the cool kids, that AT skis, splitboard or solids and do resort and BC ... all ya need is one set of boots. I don't ski...but apparently one of the issues with downhill skiing is the AT boots might not be stiff enough and perhaps some release issues...that is if one is an agressive dh skier.

Have only done a wee bit of touring...because I wanted to get the fit dialed in before getting way out and then be in pain...but ya the touring is at a whole other enlightening level...waaaay better than in softies....AND lighter too.
A couple of other things I forgot:

This whole hardboot set up is light, so I found it easy to do billygoat or jump turns and more importantly able to land these turns with the edges dug in...thus more assured feeling on the steep bits where these turns are perhaps vital. Basically more easier and efficiently able to dig in edges both on toe and heel sides when side slipping some gnarls. Me thinks that the combination of light weight and stiffness really gives the feeling of being agile but also having solid performance assuredness with less effort which results in an enhanced level of efficiency and performance that I was not expecting.

I think the stiffness of the boots and lightness of the setup helped in negotiating moguls...and found there was plenty of flexibility to work my legs independently.

Calf bite...It might be that I don't have much issue with calf bite is because I'm a guy using the women's version of the Atomic Backlands, which has the less stiff non-carbon cuffs and the cuffs are designed (? idk) lower due to women's calf anatomy. Idk if this design thing is correct because I've never tried on the carbon men's version due to they don't make them in mondo 24.

Also found that by flipping the walk/ride latch up/disengaged, these boots are comparatively easy to get on/off and it is easy to pull out the liners out of the shells to get things dried out.

Lastly, perhaps due to the above feeling of enhanced level of efficiency and performance I felt I could ride more aggressively...but the more probably due to me being fat and gezzerily I was feeling it today...sore worked legs and lower back...but was pushing it due to having some pretty good bluebird pow conditions.
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The whole notion of hard booting just makes sense to me. As I progress to seeking out higher speeds it occurs to me that I’m seeking out stiffer and more responsive boots and bindings.

My questions:

1. Did you find that moguls were easy to negotiate? How about trees? How was it compared to soft boots?

2. Did you use a board that you previously used for soft boots or did you get a board better designed for hard booting (or is there such a thing?).
The Amplid Creamer 163 was a solid board and had used soft boots for 1/2 season...but I cut it in half and am now riding with the hardboots. But due to the Crossbars and phantoms...it still feels like when it was a solid. But the board does come as a factory made split. It has early rise nose and camber under foot.

I'm not a good tree rider...but I'm doing moguls better than I've ever done...but that might be because I'm riding a bit better...however feel I've more quick agility/control/response with the stiff boots.
...I'm a guy using the women's version of the Atomic Backlands ... I've never tried on the carbon men's version due to they don't make them in mondo 24.
Remind me, you still have pretty wide feet, right? My dogs are 243mm, but wide, so if I go this route I have to make sure the shell can be blown out, if necessary, to accommodate the width.
The whole notion of hard booting just makes sense to me. As I progress to seeking out higher speeds it occurs to me that I’m seeking out stiffer and more responsive boots and bindings.

My questions:

1. Did you find that moguls were easy to negotiate? How about trees? How was it compared to soft boots?

2. Did you use a board that you previously used for soft boots or did you get a board better designed for hard booting (or is there such a thing?).
1. Kind of hard to say, in that the I’m finding it easier, i.e., improving my bump riding skill-wise and in the trees (but far from good). Me thinks because the set up is so light, it is easier to flick the board around. Also due to the stiffiness of the boots it seems easier and more precise to engage and set the edge. Last Saturday riding some good sized tight bumps was able to set it and then pop to the next edge…not that I was good but it did to feel that I had more control/potential to make it happen. There was less fighting and more riding the bumps…if that makes sense.
2. Yes, the Amplid was a solid resort board…then I cut it…but as a split with the Crossbars and Phantoms, it still rides like a solid. And yes there are boards that are made more for hardboots…like alpine racing boards, euro carve boards and perhaps boarder cross boards. There is/was “bomber on-line” community/forum that was quite a good resource of information…but idk if it is still active. However, if you wanted to do hardboots on a solid board…the hardbood race plates are certainly less spendy than the Phantoms that are designed for bc splitting. This past summer, thanks to @timmytard I picked up 2 alpine race boards and a set of plates…and now that the Backlands are fitting well, I will be trying out these before season’s end.

edit: another thing, is because of the stiff boot, imo/e you can ride a tad wider and longer board due to being able to really apply leverage/pressure to the edges. My usual go to softboot resort board is an old stiff FR cambered Option 158...but with the hardboots, the 163 Amplid Creamer is very comfortable and doesn't really seem that it is .75cm wider and 5 cm longer.

edit2: Forgot to mention, I also have an old c2btx Gnu BillyGoat 159 factory split that has Sparks R&D tesla Afterburners with upgraded flipngo Surge highbacks with 32 focus boas boots. It is a burls, reliable, rips the natty and KISS set up...but it is a heavy mutha, feels relatively dead...it feels that it weighs twice as much as the backland/amplid/phantom set up. Don't get me wrong, the Billy/Sparks is a solid set up...but perhaps being gezzerily, I've become a weight weenie.
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Remind me, you still have pretty wide feet, right? My dogs are 243mm, but wide, so if I go this route I have to make sure the shell can be blown out, if necessary, to accommodate the width.
I think they are wide for such small/short feet. I just measured them at the widest point...left is 10.2cm and right is 10.0cm. In my boots, I'm using a pair of Ed Viesturs blue "SOLE" insoles which are pretty high volume and has a healthy amount of height for high arch/insteps. So when the Backlands were first heated, they were part of the moulding process, i.e., inside the liner. One of my last mods, for the right boot (because it was a tad tight and had a bothersome hotspot on the top of my foot. To which, I did 2 things. First was to sand down the bottom of the right "Sole" insole, took off maybe a 1/16" of the hard plastic bottom that was under the front/fore front of the insole using my small benchtop belt sander. And second, I used a blow/heat gun (or hand held hair dryer) and heated up shell/liner at the bothersome spot...of course I taped a small bit of foam on the foot's hotspot, then slipped on my liner sock, put the boot on and buckled it up...followed by heating up the boot in just that specific area...just to get it warmed up...Not melting...then stood still for about 10-15 minutes for the shell and liner to cool. It worked like a charm.

As for your question about if the boot can be blown/punched out...(I'd recommend you give Frank at Backcountry Essentials 1-360-543-5678 a quick call and if you make up this way, either order a pair or get them online and make a bootfitting appointment with Frank...he is the local go to fitter that has been doing it for decades and he is familiar with the specific issues of hardboots for us splitty riders.)

The women's version of the Backland has the Grilamid Shell & Cuff which is heat mouldable and more flexible...verses the men's version iirc only comes with the carbon cuff, which is not heat mouldable.
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Update...this past Saturday...another day, heavenly...so much more performance and so comfortable...didn't even loosen the buckles during lunch. Hardboots for allmtn freeriding...is the shitz....so great. And sparks dyno dh's should be arriving this afternoon :grin:
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I have been thinking for a long while about tinkering with a pair of AT boots and some Phantom bindings for my regular riding. Ever since the Backlands came out, the thought has been running through my mind more often as each day passes.
I have been thinking for a long while about tinkering with a pair of AT boots and some Phantom bindings for my regular riding. Ever since the Backlands came out, the thought has been running through my mind more often as each day passes.
Phantoms if you are going down the split path

One Binding System with Sparks Dyno DH if you are going to stay on a solid board...its about 1/2 the cost of the whole Phantom setup.

Someone said you cant feel the board snow as much....which is somewhat true...but then again you also don't feel all the little bothersome stuff either.

http://www.onebindingsystems.com/

https://www.sparkrandd.com/gear/dyno-dh/
Think the phantoms have a quiver solution too.
Think the phantoms have a quiver solution too.
oh yea, its their 3in1 cleat, can be used on diy splits, factory splity and solids.
There is/was “bomber on-line” community/forum that was quite a good resource of information…but idk if it is still active.
Very much alive over at forums.alpinesnowboarder.com
Very much alive over at forums.alpinesnowboarder.com
Thanks, I'll check in over there.
The whole notion of hard booting just makes sense to me. As I progress to seeking out higher speeds it occurs to me that I’m seeking out stiffer and more responsive boots and bindings.

My questions:

1. Did you find that moguls were easy to negotiate? How about trees? How was it compared to soft boots?

2. Did you use a board that you previously used for soft boots or did you get a board better designed for hard booting (or is there such a thing?).
Hey, I know it has been a while but maybe I can give some insight so you can make the decision whether you want to get into it. I started hardbooting since this December, and I've put in at least 15+ days into it. I never was a park dude, and would usually just carve around and go through ungroomed terrain. I was immediately hooked once I tried the boots, riding them on groomers is an amazing time.

Once I got used to the boots and got teching them right, bumps were really easy to rip through, but you really need to exercise proper technique. Smacking into the boots can hurt if you aren't used to it/conditioned for it. They're also easier to skate or crouch down once you're used to them, since the boot can support you... It's fun going into wacky poses in the lift line/at the top. The boots also make controlling your board easier at higher speeds, and I found carving on them to be easier than skidding tbh.

There are boards designed with hardboots in mind, alpine boards, they're usually like slalom, GS, BX, and carving boards. They're extremely stiff, and usually very narrow(We're talking 17cm waist width, etc) for fast edge changes, full camber. If your board is really soft you run the risk of overpowering it. My old BX board I'm able to use both softboots and hardboots on. When I use softboots it's mega aggressive and sendy; when I use hardboots it's a more "playful", agile ride. On my carving board it's crazy, I'll make half circles, big ollies, and hop turns.

Cheers
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Being a complete noob to splitboard, what are the benefits of hard boots for touring?

Saw a guy in the lift line the other day in hard boots and a solid board, but with poles?

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Why didn't you do the power strap up tightly as I would imagine anything that reduces the gap at the top of your boots would provide more instant response in your turns. No idea why normal snowboard boot manufacturers have not worked that out when every ski boot manufacturer has years ago.
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