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Discussion Starter #1
So, I had my board tuned at a shop for the start of the season. I used to have it tuned in shops until last season when i started doing it myself. When I started tuning it, I was never able to get the edges really, really sharp. After getting it tuned in a shop, it was better, but I chunked up the edges and had to re-sharpen it, and now it seems like I can't get them sharp again. They are sharp, but not like...SHARP. I got a new board today and I don't know if I'm expecting too much because they come out of the factory like machetes, but I'm getting irritated and I'm starting to think that when I was getting it tuned in the shop, they were tuning it to strange angles. I use 1 degree on the base and 89 on the side and the side file never seems to scrape the board...
 

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You can specify the angles you want when they tune them, especially if they're using a ceramic edger (which I'd ask if they have it -- other edgers use a system basically akin to taking sandpaper across your edges -- eek)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You can specify the angles you want when they tune them, especially if they're using a ceramic edger (which I'd ask if they have it -- other edgers use a system basically akin to taking sandpaper across your edges -- eek)
I know. But I never did, so I would assume they would just tune to 90, unless they didn't know what the eff they were doing and they tuned them to 88, or something. But I'm using an 89 file guide and it just rolls across the edge. So I'm a little miffed that I might have to buy another file guide... Unless I'm doing something wrong, but I've tuned so many other boards and this one particular board is the only one that never seems to come out as sharp as I'd hoped for.
 

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I'm curious as to why you would want razors. Are you running super icy blacks or super icy pipes? I shred in icy VA & tune to 88 and never have issues. I see an opportunity to learn a little something here, please explain!
 

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Personal preference.. i really like to carve so sharp edges are key for me. I'm anal about it.. I can tell when they start to dull long before it bothers other people.. guess I'm weird like that
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I have Vario Power Grip, or whatever. I can tell when it stops holding the ice well. Most of the slopes up here are hardpack and/or ice. Or they're fluffy and then you run over a spot of ice and it's sketchy. I like that the NS boards hold that, and when my edges aren't sharp, it doesn't. And I'm not as into smacking my head on the ice.

I'm also anal about it. I want my edges to slice my hand open. Kidding... I'm sure they'll be fine. I just liked how the new board felt with the factory-sharp edges. I want that again. *unicorn tears*
 

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NS boards come with a 90/0 degree edge so you will have a lot of work ahead of you to change it to 89/1 unless the shop already changed that.
 

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sweet, yea everyone has a prefrence! Our hill is mostly hard pack/ ice. During the learning phase my instructor suggested I have the shop take it from a 90/0 to an 88/2 to alieviate some catch as I was learning on rails & boxes. I did & never looked back. I guess it what you get used to. I shred a ride machete & even with the 88/2 & the lowrise tech it bites like a pitbull when you set the edge. Thanks a ton for the input! Lol now I get why my buddy from out west says if you can learn to ride on our icy hill you can shred anywhere! Here's to the new year! :thumbsup:
 

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Sounds like your shop set the angles at something other than what you specified.

I've got my SL-R set at .5 and 88 and have had no problem touching them up with a fine diamond stone to keep them glove-slashing sharp. BTW a file really just sets the angle, a diamond or ceramic stone is what gets them really sharp.

Check this out for tips:

http://www.alpinecarving.com/tuning.html#edges

If you're not getting any contact using a bevel guide, that tells me that they're not at the that bevel angle
 

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killer link! Lightbulb! It's the verbage, sharp is a clean burr free edge regardless of angle. I think. Thanks!
 

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I already did it...
And it's not that difficult. It takes longer to de-tune the tip and tail.
Bang, found your problem. Heres the fix...Im highly certain that you are only taking a couple swipes of your edger.

Take a sharpie, color in the side of your edge that you want to file down, then file it down until you cannot see any more sharpie. Thats how you know that you have done a solid job. It should take a good 20 swipes to get your edge sharp if you are using just a conventional file.

I don't know why you want your edges so sharp, their way over rated and quite hazardous. Unless you are riding ice. But who wants to go out and ride if its Icy out?
 

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I don't know why you want your edges so sharp, their way over rated and quite hazardous. Unless you are riding ice. But who wants to go out and ride if its Icy out?
I do! I just wanna ride and I feel that riding in shit conditions make you better for when conditions are better.

I bought a set of 3 DMT Diamond stones (course, fine, super fine) off of Amazon for $20 and they are awesome for getting a clean and sharp edge. The small size fits in the pocket file guides, while the larger size will fit in the large file guides.
 

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I don't know why you want your edges so sharp, their way over rated and quite hazardous. Unless you are riding ice. But who wants to go out and ride if its Icy out?
Obviously a west coaster :)

East of the Rockies, if you don't ride ice, you don't ride much
 

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Obviously a west coaster :)

East of the Rockies, if you don't ride ice, you don't ride much
Hahaha, got me there! Im a west coast park kid so I have my edges super detuned and what not. Recently in washington it was hard pack - Pow - slush - pow (for 3 days) - super hard pack. Only experienced a bit of Ice yesterday. Park Crews are having a fantastic time at the moment building new features...only soon to build them bigger.
 
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