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I didn't feel like putting in the time to give my board a hot wax. To save a little I put Mr. Zogs rub on wax and put by snowboard in the sauna, I am unsure of the temperature if I had to guess maybe 130 degrees. Went to check on my snowboard and the base of the board was almost perfect. I rubbed more wax on the board and ended up putting to much on so now I have to do some scraping.
When I took the snowboard out it was very warm almost to hot to hold but not quite at that point yet.

Do you guys thing this is an effective method for a easy hot wax? Any reason why the sauna will negatively effect my board? Does it matter I used a heating method with rub on wax?

Thanks in advance for your feedback.
 

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Rides Caturdayz
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Nude waxing? O_O
 

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This has GOT to be a troll post!?! Methinks JetFalcon started a new name! :dunno:

You should NOT be waxing your board in the sauna, for many reasons...
 

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Rides Caturdayz
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What if it's girl in the nude doing the waxing? Think of the possibilities.
 

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Haha... oh man haha.

First of all the sauna is no where near the kind of heat an iron creates...

Second, I'm sure your board does look great after a rub on wax sauna or no sauna... but it will be gone after one run becuase thats all rub on wax is good for.

Third... um...

haha!
 

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I didn't even know Mr. Zogs made snowboard wax (they do).

Anyway, I'm hoping, for your sake, the board you did this to is an old beater...because you probably just effed it up
 

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Anyway, I'm hoping, for your sake, the board you did this to is an old beater...because you probably just effed it up
Actually if it was 130 degrees F(most mild saunas are around 140 or so) that would only be 55 degrees Celsius. Can't remember which thread I was reading, but it mentioned needing 60 degrees to start softening the resin if you were planning to "de-camber" an old board.

Chances are he didn't hurt much, just didn't accomplish much either. Best bet would be to scrape that crap off, use some base cleaner, then give it a proper hot wax with an iron. Or maybe leave it to the professionals!!! :blink:

My biggest complaint is that a sauna is for bathing. The only things that should be brought in are shampoos and soaps, and maybe a little eucalyptus oil or birch saplings! I would air that sauna out real well before using it again.
 

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Despite what others are saying, I don't think it's a bad idea; not as good as a hot wax but better than a cold wax I would imagine.

Hot waxing with an iron would be a more concentrated heat source to open up the pores. I would imagine the amount of time a board has to sit in sauna would be pretty long, but I guess if you're tight on time, you can add board waxing to your sauna session lol.
 

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But how will the board absorb solid wax? The wax needs be melted to absorb into the pores. The iron serves a dual purpose, heat the p-tex/open the pores as well as melting the wax to allow it to absorb. Hense the reason a cold rub on wax only lasts one run, it does not absorb because it is a solid.
 

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Despite what others are saying, I don't think it's a bad idea; not as good as a hot wax but better than a cold wax I would imagine.

Hot waxing with an iron would be a more concentrated heat source to open up the pores. I would imagine the amount of time a board has to sit in sauna would be pretty long, but I guess if you're tight on time, you can add board waxing to your sauna session lol.
If this chart is correct, the temperature you'd need to even melt the wax would vastly exceed what almost any sauna could do. I overbuilt my sauna, and the hottest I've seen it was 210 degrees.

Just to prove that it's retarded, I'm going to shave a little wax into a dish, and take it in the sauna with me next time I'm having one. It won't melt!

The other reason it's retarded is, it would take a lot longer to wait for the sauna to heat up, than an iron, and there would be no way to drip wax onto the board in the first place in the sauna...

THIS WHOLE FRICKIN IDEA IS JUST RETARDED!!! :blowup:
 

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Not really a bad idea. The best way to get wax to absorb deep into your base is and always has been a "hot box" which is usually set at around 121 degrees farenheit. Too much heat will ruin your board but if you can keep the temperature at 130 degrees or less no problem.

This is the MOST effective way to prepare and wax your board. As far as longevity, no wax job lasts as long. The pores in the base stay "open" for a few hours as opposed to the five minutes you are waxing with an iron. The best technique is to iron wax the board, leaving A LOT of extra wax on the base. While the board is still hot from the iron place the board in the hot box and let that stuff "soak in." After a few hours most if not all of the wax will be absorbed into the base. The next step is to simply put a light, condition specific, wax on top and scrape.
 

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This is/was a pretty common nordic and alpine ski wax technique. Just google ski wax hot box and you'll get a ton of pages for using or building one.
 

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I'd actually be interested in Poutanen trying this. The OP's idea is dumb but after a hotwax put in a 130 degreen sauna for a couple hours. Maybe too much NRG$$, but then again, ur the one with the sauna....
 

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This is/was a pretty common nordic and alpine ski wax technique. Just google ski wax hot box and you'll get a ton of pages for using or building one.
When googling hot box is says that a special wax with a much lower melting temp is used. They roll the stuff on, then bake it in a very carefully controlled oven on hot cold cycles. Supposedly gets more wax in the pores, I'm not sure I believe it!

I'd actually be interested in Poutanen trying this. The OP's idea is dumb but after a hotwax put in a 130 degreen sauna for a couple hours. Maybe too much NRG$$, but then again, ur the one with the sauna....
It's actually cheap to run, about $0.80 an hour on full blast (takes an hour to get to about 150). That said, I'm NOT going to sit in a box with a board laced with something that can give off fumes! I'm already fucked up enough!!!

Ya... after a hot wax, not a cold rub on.
Yeah, and even then the hot wax we usually use melts in the 200-300 degree range. I'm not convinced there's any benefit to hot boxing (wax that is!), there's just not enough info on the theory that makes any sense to me!
 

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^ that and also this...

Who the fuck cares... I mean is there somebody out there thats seriously not getting enough performace out of a hot wax and scrape that they need to spend the extra time and money to hot box the board?

I wax and scrape my board in less than 5 minutes...
 
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