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This is a big thing I feel I'm missing. I ride almost exclusively with skiers, and the couple friends I have who board are noobs. If I did ride with someone better than me he'd probably throw me off the lift after my 100th technique question lol.
This is why I'll pay for advanced lessons once or twice a season ;)
 

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Hello all, I really enjoyed reading through this forum and learning about all your Korua experiences/opinions. I had a demo season pass last year and got to try a few different Korua's

Dart 156/160
TF 157
Cafe Racer 156 (own)

My wife fell in love with the Cafe Racer so I got that for her and sometimes steal it and ride it myself. I really enjoy aggressive carving and love the way Korua boards ride but I'd describe myself as an All Mountain freestyle freeriding carver (if that's a thing) basically I enjoy a little bit of everything but my freestyle is mostly on mountain and I don't go into park often. I'm quite convinced I'll love the Otto because I really enjoyed the TF but felt like a little more tail would be prefect for my everyday go to.

My actual question is Korua + series vs regular? I'm pretty set on the Otto and thought I'd just invest in the + to get the best but I became aware of people saying its got more carbon so its not as damp and so on. What are your experience with + vs regular series without considering price, which is better?
just want to let u know that the TF will have less setback(longer tail) for the 21/22 season, and will change name to transition finder.
 

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just want to let u know that the TF will have less setback(longer tail) for the 21/22 season, and will change name to transition finder.
Is this just to differentiate the board a little more from other Korua boards?
 

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I think people were kinda using the TF as the Otto... pre-otto if that makes sense. It's the most freestyle friendly of their older shapes and reducing the setback seems like it would make it more freestlye friendly while still letting you move the bindings back for powder or more carving.
 

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I think people were kinda using the TF as the Otto... pre-otto if that makes sense. It's the most freestyle friendly of their older shapes and reducing the setback seems like it would make it more freestlye friendly while still letting you move the bindings back for powder or more carving.
Pretty much. Yet a board with a 3 cm taper, 2 cm setback and a long degressive sidecut in the tail isn’t much fun switch. CR with the same geometry is one of the worst boards for switch I’ve been on. Doable but let’s be honest - bad. I like that change in TF, makes more sense to grab it in the future (depending on the quiver moves).
 

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Pretty much. Yet a board with a 3 cm taper, 2 cm setback and a long degressive sidecut in the tail isn’t much fun switch. CR with the same geometry is one of the worst boards for switch I’ve been on. Doable but let’s be honest - bad. I like that change in TF, makes more sense to grab it in the future (depending on the quiver moves).
Yeah, the stealth isn't too bad switch.
 

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I had a feeling the Stealth was gone after this season. It's why I paid full price for one about six weeks back. I don't pay retail for snowboards unless I REALLY want to try something relatively scarce (maybe twice in the past 16 years). Stealth fell into that category after I tried out the Cafe Racer, and turned out to be a pretty great call. I'd tweak a few things about it, but it's likely to be my daily driver for the foreseeable future.

Pretty much. Yet a board with a 3 cm taper, 2 cm setback and a long degressive sidecut in the tail isn’t much fun switch. CR with the same geometry is one of the worst boards for switch I’ve been on. Doable but let’s be honest - bad. I like that change in TF, makes more sense to grab it in the future (depending on the quiver moves).
Lol the first time I ever rode the Stealth switch was in the middle of a lesson trying to nail backside 360s. Instructor asked me to drop in switch for switch frontside 180s. That was... interesting. We took a couple attempts, and the instructor eventually just aid "y'know what, let's just go for the 3". Way simpler.

Stealth sucks switch. I can pop a 1, take a few turns, and pop back, but on top of everything you mentioned it has VERY little tail kick, so you need to be really careful about switch "nose" clearance unless you're dealing with perfectly manicured groomers. And that stupid little cutout is a liability that adds basically no value. If they made a large size TF, I would have just bought that.

But I don't care that much about switch, basically enough for the occasional 1 and a few switch turns. I got other boards if I'm prioritizing that.
 

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Guys, I need some sizing advises..
I owned the TF57, great board and keeping it.
spec: 185lb/85kg, and US boot size 10, 183cm
Looking at the Dart and CR, I think CR 59 is a good fit for me? I can't decide between 56/60 for the Dart tho.

Side Question: have anyone had the experience of Korua board's base have bumps under the insert pack?
My TF57 has some small bumps right under the insert pack area, you can only feel it by hand when touching it.
At first, I thought was caused by tightening my binding too hard, but the bumps were not where I mounted my bindings.
Brought the board to the shop, the shop guy said is a pretty common situation and it is caused by when sandwiching/heating the board some bubbles formed. He said my bumps are minor and won't affect riding.
Just wonder has anyone encounter this situation? or warrant claimed to Korua?
Thank you!
 

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Not on my TF 57, but I got them on my Jones MT and my Jones Flagship. Minor defects is pretty common these days it seems.
 

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Not on my TF 57, but I got them on my Jones MT and my Jones Flagship. Minor defects is pretty common these days it seems.
i see! have you tried email Jones or just let it go? I just let the shop guy stone grind it. After grinding it definitely less obvious but still can feel the bumps there:((
By no means these bumps will affect riding, but they just bugging me haha
 

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Stealth sucks switch. I can pop a 1, take a few turns, and pop back, but on top of everything you mentioned it has VERY little tail kick, so you need to be really careful about switch "nose" clearance unless you're dealing with perfectly manicured groomers. And that stupid little cutout is a liability that adds basically no value. If they made a large size TF, I would have just bought that.

But I don't care that much about switch, basically enough for the occasional 1 and a few switch turns. I got other boards if I'm prioritizing that.
Just to follow up on this, I centered up the Stealth for the first time. Moved it up a set of inserts (+20 mm, negating the 20 mm reference setback), which centers it on sidecut (still a fair bit of overall length setback). Rode better but still weird switch. Caught the tail a few times in slush due to lack of tail kick.

I also caught the nose a few times popping cab 1s off little step downs. Part of that is sucking at cab 1s and mistiming the pop (split-second early), but at least one of those I would have cleared easily with a less elongated nose.
 

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Pocket Rocket 2.0?


Btw couldn’t agree more with Kimjon’s percentages talk. People just don’t know any better.
 
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