It's hard to see the rise height but it looks moderate. You can try to sand it out but you may sand through the base. Cutting a piece in is the best option but it's highly advisable to have a template to cut out damage and mirror in the replacement section, epoxy, clamp and blend in for completion. This type of repair however is on the higher skill end for board tuning.

You can buy a Petex cutting template, but I made a copy out of 3.5mm Aluminium plate.

 

One shop actually tried to sand and fill in the bubble with p-text but it still came back. So the tech didn’t want to risk further damage if he cut into it to remove the bubble and it turned out to be to the core. Which I’m surprised a core shot should be an easy fix for any place that offers tuning services.

Ok, so right when I put the razor blade to one of the bubble, it pretty much went straight to the core. So I proceeded to dig out the rest of them. Does this look ok, or too many close together that I should do option 2 with the sintered cutout? For now I’m going to try to option#1 with soldering metal grip, then topping it off with p-tex if that is ok?

 

I'd say a base patch as Craig described is your best bet for a proper repair. But from a practicality and ease of repair point of view, I'd just fill all of those holes with a good epoxy. It's on the tip, it doesn't need to absorb wax and glide like base material between your contact points does. Epoxy it to help keep it water tight and forget it ever happened. Metal Grip would probably work fine if you've got it as well. And next time you're waxing, keep that iron moving and turn down the temp. No need for that much heat!

 

So I went with option 1 first to try and fill in with the metal grip and then ptex over it. Forgive the shoddy work as this is my first time with a core-shot repair but it kinda turned out ok. And since the damage is at the nose which won’t touch the snow much I think it should suffice for the rest of the season?