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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Being a complete noob to splitboard, what are the benefits of hard boots for touring?

Saw a guy in the lift line the other day in hard boots and a solid board, but with poles?

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The benefit of hard boots are the efficiency, with the Atomic Backland boots you can have a full stride, they are stiffer laterally so when on a traverse you don't roll your ankle toward the downhill edge...and it is often a lighter setup on the leg...so less tiring.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Why didn't you do the power strap up tightly as I would imagine anything that reduces the gap at the top of your boots would provide more instant response in your turns. No idea why normal snowboard boot manufacturers have not worked that out when every ski boot manufacturer has years ago.
I've done the power strap/binding/boot thing with my softboots both on resort set up and on the splitty spark afterburner, 32 focus boa set up...it works and there is an improvement...but not nearly as much as with AT hardboots.

Btw...there were back in the day some iirc burton bindings with the 3rd strap and highbacks with wings.
 
There is a reason why Olympic skiers use a product called "booster strap' and the snowboard boot equivalent is a product called Strapins. The pissy little strap some manufacturers have at the top of both snowboard and ski boots is quite useless as you can't really crank it up and it is often to narrow for the job I have found.

Haven't ridden in them myself, but I can imagine hard boots are very responsive and would suit certain riding styles more.
 
There is a reason why Olympic skiers use a product called "booster strap' and the snowboard boot equivalent is a product called Strapins. The pissy little strap some manufacturers have at the top of both snowboard and ski boots is quite useless as you can't really crank it up and it is often to narrow for the job I have found.



Haven't ridden in them myself, but I can imagine hard boots are very responsive and would suit certain riding styles more.


I bought some Strapins -they need to be upgraded with metal buckles. I broke one of the plastic buckles the first time I cinched it tonight.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
I bought some Strapins -they need to be upgraded with metal buckles. I broke one of the plastic buckles the first time I cinched it tonight.
For soft boots and to wrap the binding highbacks to the boot, I've used some 2-3" wide velcro straps with metal loops cannibalized from some old walking cast boots from the thrift store. The rectangular metal loops didn't work great because they would slip longways...but you could rig them with D ring/loop and it would work better.
 
I bought some Strapins -they need to be upgraded with metal buckles. I broke one of the plastic buckles the first time I cinched it tonight.
Must have been a while ago, these are mine I bought late last year I think, no chance of breaking. Their website states they offer a full refund or replacement if any issues so I hope you followed them back up.
 

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Must have been a while ago, these are mine I bought late last year I think, no chance of breaking. Their website states they offer a full refund or replacement if any issues so I hope you followed them back up.


Interesting. I bought mine back in March of this year.
 
I can only imagine you said something to them about it and have ones like mine now. Mad if you didn't.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Phantom Link Levers...update. The links levers arrived and tried. They were OK and did what was claimed. However using the non-carbon Backlands, the link levers were not needed. I rode them 1 day and felt there was too much forward range and the bit of backward give was nice but not needed. I was surprised that the GREEN/stiffest springs did not offer much resistance and seemed too soft...(range is green/stiff for riders 160+ lbs...I'm 170#). So I put the stock links back on. However perhaps using the carbon cuff version these levers would be more useful.


 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
@wrathfuldeity have you done the mod to move the lower buckle up on the pivot?
No, I've heard of it but have not really investigated. At one time I thought the cable across the instep was pretty tight and it is definitely snug on my feet. However the new models have the boa. I'd think Atomic could probably easily come up with a double boa on this boot. But the buckles are nice because of the KISS design.
 
No, I've heard of it but have not really investigated. At one time I thought the cable across the instep was pretty tight and it is definitely snug on my feet. However the new models have the boa. I'd think Atomic could probably easily come up with a double boa on this boot. But the buckles are nice because of the KISS design.
Check out the pics on the Phantom Link Levers page you posted. There's a pic with a black boot and a white boot. The white one seems to have the mod done.
 
No, I've heard of it but have not really investigated. At one time I thought the cable across the instep was pretty tight and it is definitely snug on my feet. However the new models have the boa. I'd think Atomic could probably easily come up with a double boa on this boot. But the buckles are nice because of the KISS design.
I think Boa might make it better for micro adjustments but buckles probably make it much easier to duplicate the same level of tightness from day to day or run to run.
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Check out the pics on the Phantom Link Levers page you posted. There's a pic with a black boot and a white boot. The white one seems to have the mod done.
Mig, I just did the mod of switching the buckle to the pivot and tried on the boots...but have not gone out to ride them. The mod took 5 minutes and very easy. There is less pressure over the instep and more on the ankle, so I'd think its a tad better at helping to lock down the heel in the pocket. Also the link levers, I'm going to try to remove the spring for the forward flex (too much range) but keep the rubber bushing for the backward dampening. It would be good to have a tad more fwd lean and a bit of dampening rearward. Plan is to work on the link lever mod and give them another try...maybe ride wed/thursday or saturday.

Yesterday was a whiteout dump riding knee deep and waist deep to bottomless if I biffed...was quite fun but feeling it today.
 
Mig, I just did the mod of switching the buckle to the pivot and tried on the boots...but have not gone out to ride them. The mod took 5 minutes and very easy. There is less pressure over the instep and more on the ankle, so I'd think its a tad better at helping to lock down the heel in the pocket. Also the link levers, I'm going to try to remove the spring for the forward flex (too much range) but keep the rubber bushing for the backward dampening. It would be good to have a tad more fwd lean and a bit of dampening rearward. Plan is to work on the link lever mod and give them another try...maybe ride wed/thursday or saturday.

Yesterday was a whiteout dump riding knee deep and waist deep to bottomless if I biffed...was quite fun but feeling it today.
Thanks for the update!!! Please, let me know how it feels once you get to ride the mod. I am definitely leaning towards giving this setup a try next year.
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
Review of moving the lower buckle to the pivot. Well it does hold the ankle down and back. However, for me it was a tad uncomfortable and pinchy. I'll give it another day, but not yet convinced its better for me.
 
Discussion starter · #37 · (Edited)
Phantom Link Levers initial thoughts and mod.

Atomic Backland convert, mondo 24, women’s version with grilamid shell and cuff; 170#, Amplid Creamer 163 diy split, Phantom alpha ride/tour, upgraded Phantom tech toes and now Phantom link levers at Baker. Also using the Backland boots for all my riding; resort and BC.

The stock Backland levers seemingly work ok and have managed to ride fine due to the grilamid cuff is flexible enough and easily adjusted using the top buckle and power strap to dial in flex and movement from loose to stiff performance. The issue with the stock levers is that you can not easily adjust the forward lean without a mod. Some folks (mainly with the carbon version) note that cuffs are stiff but primarily there is no gradual forward and backward transition flex/give. Also, there is the issue is at the end of the flex range is a “hard stop” without much gradient nor dampness. Therefore, the Phantom Link Levers were apparently developed to address these issues.

The stock Phantom Link Levers, ordered the stiffest “Green” springs rated for 160+ lbs riders. They look to be well made, sturdy and up to the task.

After one day of use: My issue with the stock Link Levers, with the green spring: There was too much range of forward flex and there was not enough resistance provided by the springs. I imagine in part due to the more flexible non-carbon grilamid cuff…however with the stiff carbon cuffs the springs and range might work better. The backward dampening worked well. However, the top rubber bushing/washers that are used to dampen the backward movement appears that it will not hold up for very long.

My issues with the Phantom link levers: The green spring was too soft which resulted in too much forward flex range that kind of threw me in to being over-committed on toeside edge. And the backward dampening rubber bushing felt rather harsh and was not going to be very durable.

The Mod: I removed the spring and the rubber damping washers and replaced them with hose. Specifically, car/auto vacuum line (softer) for the backward dampening bushing and gas/radiator line for the forward flex (stiffer) to replace the spring. Each piece of line was the same length of the bushing and the spring. Then adjusted the forward lean/angle from the 70mm (which is the Backland's stock lever non-adjustible distance) to 75mm (length from pivot pin to latching pin). Tried 80mm and it was too much forward lean. Also tried the softer vacuum line where the spring sits and it compressed too much. The cost of the vacuum line was under $1 for a 12” and the stiffer gas/radiator line was about $1.80 for 12”…enough line for 3-4 sets of the link levers mods.

Tools: 10mm open box wrench,
2 philips head screw drivers,
Silicone grease or spray to easily slip the hoses over the rod (but its not required),
Metric ruler to measure the distance of the pins,
Blue loctite

Mod Results: In bounds/resort at Baker, with 6” of fresh typical PNW wet heavy cream cheese poo, firm groomers in the morning and sugar groomers in the afternoon. Riding an old Option stiffy freeride full cambered board, Sparks One Binding pucks and Spark Dyno DH bindings. The car/auto lines/hoses worked well. There was enough dampening both forward and back and the flex was firm, predictable in a significantly reduced range that resulted in the ability to dig in the edges and easily get the board up on toe and heel edges. Actually, the board, binding and boots felt more like an extension of my body with the ability to feel the snow/board and have excellent responsiveness of a well-tuned integration of the parts. Had memorable runs from top to bottom of chair 8, going skier’s left of the old terrain park that weaves around and hooks up the chair 7 to 8 groomer run. It was flat out flying over rollers, straight lining the dips…scary fun. Am sure at times, hitting mid 50’s mph without issue. Other runs were “death star” and the natural half pipe where the LBS runs. The set up felt solid, stable and assured.

***Note recently Phantom sent out a email note, that the 1st and 2nd production runs there was an issue of the pivot pin screws coming loose and falling out. The recommend fix was to use some blue Loctite…there is a youtube vid. There is also a youtube vid that shows you how to switch out the springs.

An email to Phantom and they are aware of the rubber bushing issue and apparently working on a up-grade for next year…I suggested that perhaps the material could be a more durable poly material bushing like what is used on front end suspensions on cars and for skate board trucks. Also noted thinking about replacing the spring with a metal tube to eliminate or reduce the range of the forward flex. However, upon further thought, figured that the hose lines would be a better place to start and a idea; and I’m very satisfied with the results.

The top/thicker hose is the gas/radiator line and the bottom/smaller line is vacuum line.
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The small bushing above the square nut is the stock rubber bushing that consists of 2 rubber washers
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Discussion starter · #38 ·
Thanks for the update!!! Please, let me know how it feels once you get to ride the mod. I am definitely leaning towards giving this setup a try next year.
Mig,
Lower buckle mod of moving to the pivot point:

So day 2 with the above Link Lever mods. For the time being, I'm going to stay with moving the lower buckle to the outside pivot point. Its still just a tad uncomfortable but not at all bothersome. There is absolutely no heel lift and my foot feels locked down in a performance fit. Railing carves, responsiveness in the above noted conditions felt very stable and assured...it is worth doing despite the tad comfortableness. Btw kept the buckles and straps locked down all day, even during lunch.
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
Mig,
I saw, iirc in the Atomic Backland thread at splitboard.com a pic of just adding a short piece (1-2-3cm) of ladder plastic between the pivot screw...using a piece of ladder and then a small bolt to attach the lower buckle. This gives a bit more space and adjustment...instead of just mounting the buckle on the pivot...which might be helpful for folks needing abit more range.
 
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