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Discussion starter · #41 ·
@wrathfuldeity I heard Phantom will be selling a fully modded version of the Backland Ultimate. They are looking into using elastomers instead of springs in the link lever, velcro straps / booster straps (no buckles), looking into wrap liners, etc... Should be pretty interesting to see how this develops.
Ha, maybe they liked my cheap ass elastomers idea. I really think for some splitters, board crossers and carvers; AT boots are going become the thing. I've hit the natty half pipe where the Baker LBS runs and have a ton more control and speed and "death star" is really fun to rip, its like a mini LBS course. You got to do some of these with your boards.
 
Discussion starter · #42 · (Edited)
2 year update:
So it's now Jan 2021, I've used my 32 focus boas exactly twice since getting the Backlands. First a side note, put the removable Backland plastic tongues in the 32's between the liner and tongue of soft boot shell. They fit very well and made the boot muuuch more stiffer...it was great.

Now to the points of the updates:
1. Ordered longer shell cable, they come in short, medium and long. The stock cable was short for my women's mondo 24; got the mediums they were a few mm's longer. The medium cables worked great and relieved just the tad of ankle/instep pinch that was remaining.

2. Also sanded down the bottom of the aftermarket insoles...maybe another .25mm just to get a tad more toe wiggle room...worked great.

3. Also took my heat gun (or use a hair dryer) to blow out a tad more big toe width of my right foot. To do this, use a pad of self-adhesive boot fitting foam between my big toe and the second toe ... and added a pad on the outside of my big toe. Then slip over a thin wicking liner or nylon to hold the pads in place while you get your foot in the liner (liner is already in the boot shell), it feels real tight...duh. Followed by using the hair dryer or heat gun to heat up the shell on the side of the big toe area. Just warm up the plastic shell (this also might work for soft boots...but be mindful that the glue of the soft boot might fail). After the shell is warmed...you should feel some...a tad of warmth in your foot. When everything is warmed, stand in your riding athletic stance...while gently tapping the warmed area with a small hammer or preferably a small rubber/plastic mallet. It only takes a few 6-10 taps...this just helps to get the plastic shell to move a bit better. Continue to remain standing still in your athletic stance until the boot cools off 10-15 minutes. If you want it to cool faster, put a cold pack or a bag of ice on it. Lastly, remove your foot, take off the thin sock liner and remove the boot fitting foam bits. Then put your foot back in and you should have just about the right amount of blow out room for the tootsies.

3.5 I did the above mod/adjustment to the shell, because I was starting to get a slightly painful callous/corn between my big toe and second toe. I also sanded/dremeled the corn/callous right off...ahhh happy feet!

4. Ime AT boots are where its AT...because:
a. They are more comfortable and a performance slipper...even better than my 32's with the stiff tongue.
b. They are adaptable...resort, bc touring...and could even do bc ski touring...a 1 boot do it all.
c. With the levers (I use modded Phantom link levers...see above posts) you can adjust forward lean, adjust the tension and range of flex via spring, rubber line and adjusting the top buckle and/or the velcro power strap...highly adjustable to rider/tourer preference.
d. Via the link levers' ride and tour mode, leave both the levers in tour mode for a pow surfer/no binding experience. Or leave the rear boot in tour mode for a surf/ride experience. Or lock both the levers down for the standard ride mode and shred as usual.
e. With both boots/levers in ride mode, there is a SIGNIFICANT/QUANTIUM leap in performance...there is much more control, response and stability...high speed blasting groomers, flicking through moguls, riding flats, 1 footed skating and short 1-footed adventures and chair dismount has all improved at least 100% if not more.
f. AT boots are spendy and an investment in time and fitting, however they should last at least a few years and then when considering the comfort and performance its a no brainer. Infact, I have bought another pair of Backlands and a spare 3rd pair of liners when and thus anticipate that I will get close to or at least 10 years of riding before needing to address the boot issue. So far...1st pair of nib backlands $300, 2nd pair were 2 day demos $250, extra liner $120, Phantom Link Levers $200, pro boot fitting $50 (won't have to do that again...cause now I know), $20 for the medium shell cable, $2 for rubber mods for the Link Levers and $10 for boot fitting foam to do butterfly wraps and ect. So a bit under $1000 for an anticipated 10+ years of riding = $100/year of boot expense....and considering the utilitarian adaptability, adjustability, slipper comfort and performance worth every frick'n penny.

***a bit of a disclaimer...I do not recommend going this route for a new-intermediate...and perhaps an advanced rider UNTIL you are 110% sure you got your feet size, boot fitment strategy and riding preferences dialed/sorted...and committed to the sport.
 
Discussion starter · #43 ·
Forgot to add:

I also went back to the 70mm length from pivot pin to latching pin on the Link Levers because it was a little too much heelside bias. And I've changed from +16, -6 to +21,0 angles at 23.5" width and loving it.
 
Discussion starter · #45 ·
If you were riding with a more forward stance is it possible to add canting under the rear heel with your setup?
@BoardieK that's quite a thought and I'm intrigued. Idk if there is a way to do canting on just the heel via the dyno dh bindings unless you do some puck mods. Iirc bomber/catek plates allow for rear binding heel cants. But you might be able to put or mod a higher welt insert on the replaceable heel welt of the rear AT boot. If you did that, the heel bails of the dyno dh's could adjust for the higher welt...I probably try that first because it would be cheap and easily reversible.
 
Discussion starter · #47 ·
@BoardieK that's quite a thought and I'm intrigued. Idk if there is a way to do canting on just the heel via the dyno dh bindings unless you do some puck mods. Iirc bomber/catek plates allow for rear binding heel cants. But you might be able to put or mod a higher welt insert on the replaceable heel welt of the rear AT boot. If you did that, the heel bails of the dyno dh's could adjust for the higher welt...I probably try that first because it would be cheap and easily reversible.
@BoardieK I forgot that the backlands don't have the replaceable welt...but looking at them, it would be easy to just ad a some welt from an old piece of virbram sole and use a couple of screws and/or freesole/aquaseal SR+ and glue it on.
 
Discussion starter · #48 ·
Dec 2021. Been working in Santas shop making some bootpack plates. Somewhat similar to Billygoat ascender plates for kicking/stomping in a steep boot pack...which the Verts are not quite set up to do. Hope to field test later this week.

Billy Goat Technologies

TOUR – Phantom Snow Industries verts



Gas Technology Font Office equipment Auto part





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Sports equipment Sports gear Helmet Asphalt Headgear
 
Dec 2021. Been working in Santas shop making some bootpack plates. Somewhat similar to Billygoat ascender plates for kicking/stomping in a steep boot pack...which the Verts are not quite set up to do. Hope to field test later this week.
How'd this end up working for you? I picked up BG Ascender Plates and found they made a world of difference. Hard to say how much of a role the crampon played in it, but there was a nice thick crust about 50cm down that gave the front points and the plates nice hold. Anyways, awesome to see your tinkering - makes some sense to have an option that uses a binding you already carry instead of a crampon (although the Petzl Irvis Hybrid weighs basically nothing and packs down tight).
 
Discussion starter · #50 · (Edited)
Okay fruitcakes a summer mod to the old AT Backlands. So now that I like the idea of the ankle strap pivot attachments. Improved heel hold, less pressures issues on the instep and foot/toe issues and even more KISS. I went online and the P-mods for $99 were sold out. So being an old codger got me think’n…always a dangerous thing. Going to the hardware store I got a couple ideas. But then slept on things… and it all became so clear.



So, the first idea was to use a piece of picture hanger do hickey do a loop. The second idea was to manufacturer out of a piece of thin aluminum bar basically a washer with the tab and a small hole in which to run the cable through and either loop or do an adjustable/screw down cable stop. And this would align the pivot washers more flat instead of being wonky like with the picture hanger. I think all of these would work.
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However after sleeping on it, the thought occurred let’s see what’s under the cloth covered part of the buckle…”I bet there’s just a cable stop or it was molded in. If the cable is moulded in the alumium piece, it could be drilled out and then use a cable stop.” Behold it was a mere cable stop. Thus, below is a step by step description and some pictures. At the hardware store I bought two 5M x 12 mm allen top bolts at $0.69 a piece. The next thing you need is 2 small cable stops. The ones I got were aluminum and cost $.25 a piece you need 2 those. And miscellaneous things also used: some masking tape, some gear aid aquaseal SR, a white grease pencil/nail polish/whiteout and loctite. Lastly you also need a modded 15 mm socket; a cheap one that you can grind down flat on a bench/belt sander in order to get a good purchase/grip on that inside thin pivot nut.



The process:

  • Remove the cable assembly.
  • Un-stitch one side of the fabric material so that you can expose the cable stop.
  • Take a very small drillbit and drill out the indentation that was pressed to secure the cable. Only drill down to the cable, NOT through the cable. This should loosen the cable enough so that you can pull the cable shorter using some needle nosed pliers. The cable will still be snug and take some effort, but should move through this aluminum piece.
  • Once you have a significant amount of cable pulled through; which will significantly shorten the cable buckle assembly.
  • This part is the best guesstimates for that length of cable. Do not cut any cable at this point.
  • Loosely finger tight, attach the cable and to the pivot buckle using the new 5M x 12mm bolt. Then put your liners, insoles and foot in the boot and try the buckles…get it snug down. The cable in the assembly will be fairly tight so you don’t need to worry too much about cable assembly slippage during the fitting. This will give you a good idea of where you should eventually put the new cable stop. I used the second shortest position on the buckle, so that I had one position to go looser in two positions to go tighter. All of this length measurement guesstimate is going to be depended upon your mondo size of boot and your preference for how tight. My measurements: with a 24/24.5 mondo I ended up cutting off 85 mm measuring inbetween/inside from stop to stop. Fit and measure a few times to ensure you are in the ballpark about the cable length and where to place the cable stop.
  • Remove the buckle cable assembly off the boot.
  • Once you are confident about how much to cut off. Slide over the new cable stop to your marked distance. Measure 5x then pressed close or smash the cable stop and cut the cable.
  • Then hand stitch back of the fabric, it will be easy because of holes already there.
  • And then reattach the cable assembly to the inside pivot, use Loctite on the bolt.
  • You will end up with 2 to 3 unused holes in the shell. Back with masking tape squirt some aquaseal SR in the holes, the cure for the recommended time.
In the end you’ve hacked your old AT Backlands and with some link-levers into P-slippers. Each boot is now weighing in at 1095g

Apologies that the pics are not in order...note the number.

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View attachment 163456

Finished ... note at this end of the cable, one side is flat and the other is shaped...shaped side down and the cable will lie flatter toward the boot
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These plates are 1097g a little more than twice the weight of the Verts 490g
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
Atomic Backland Pivot to pivot ankle strap mod done. For all, especially the ladies in that the smaller phantom slippers are not made...make them your selves girls! You just use the original cable and shorten it per the above instructions. All you need to get is a cable stop and a 5M bolt that is 12mm longer for each boot...total cost about $2-3.

The original strap may feel a little pinchy. This morning found a piece of stiffer webbing to spread/distribute the pressure. You could either burn 1 small hole and pass the cable through and then whip sew/lash the other side (2 points) on the wire parts of the strap/buckle.

Very happy with this cheap ass mod. The first boot took a couple of hours; just to make sure it was going to work. The second boot took 15 minutes. Superior comfort, absolutely no heel lift, plenty of room in the instep/foot/toes and lastly once you get the buckle feel, its set and forget. In fact if you want to can do a quick release the pressure of the ankle buckle for an enjoyable ride up the chair or when switching to tour mode...just like skiers do.:rolleyes::cool:


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Discussion starter · #52 ·
Hey just a link that might be of interest for folks.
Splitboard hardboot setup | Snowboarding Forum - Snowboard Enthusiast Forums

Iirc p-slippers only go down to size 25 mondo and have carbon cuffs. Women’s backland 22-24, don’t have carbon cuffs but ime work great. It would be interesting her ankles and maybe heating the shells to squeeze them narrower while also moulding the liners at the same time. Idk why that wouldn’t work and if not you can re heat the shells. It’s easy to convert women’s backland to slippers with the p-links and shorting the cable. I will post some ideas about moulding the shell when I get back home.



.5 Make sure her insoles are sorted. Insoles are key to getting a good fit without slop/slipping of her foot.

1. I would get good measurements of where exactly you want to tighten the area of the boots around the ankle and heel. Test and make sure where you want to squeeze the shell. I would get a feel for it by having her BARE foot in the liner and shell. Then use some wood block clamps so that when you tighten the clamps, she should feel some pressure exactly where it needs to be.

2. Consider you might have to build or layer up a butterfly or half-butterfly on the outside of the liner to both make the heel pocket and soak up some space where there is some movement. I think the general issue might be getting the heel pocket sorted. I would do the heel pocket first...and later you will need to probably do some minor tweaks after touring a day or two.

Actually, I would dial in the both the insoles and heel pocket the best you can, tour- tweak, tour-tweak, and repeat until you have the insole and heel pocket sorted, before proceeding to the next step of heating the shell and liner.

2. Plan the heating and fitting approach of the liner and shell. You are doing a liner and shell at the same time for only 1 foot at a time. It seems there are no issues with blowing out hot spots. Instead, you want to compress the shell to form the liner around her ankle and heel. While also cinching the shell around the liner while maintaining a snug pocket for her heel to lock into place.

Since this is a seemingly complicated approach, I'd recommend heating and fitting one boot at a time. But still wearing the other one for balance and to help avoid some wonky pirate short leg fitting "yar matey".

3. So back to your marking up with blue painter's tape or wax pencil of step 1. Now it's time to heat up a liner and shell at the same time but separately. When things are heated, insert liner into shell, add insole and then insert her bare foot (no socks). Have her stand in an athletic stance, with her heel kicked back into the pocket.

Then have your compression wrap and perhaps your wood block clamps ready to compress. But first, I figure you got about 5 minutes of working time... so you do 1-2 dry/un-heated runs to get your sequence and timing down.
a. I would start with a tourniquet wrap (may be some 2-3" webbing with a stick or short screwdriver). where your markings note. Compress it down until she feels some slight pressure and things feel snug. If the tourniquet doesn't get it snug. Then in addition use the wood block clamps below.
b. I would then use the 4" wood block clamps approaching from the back/rear of the boot to further compress from the sides of first her heel area then another at her ankle area.
c. So now on to the heat run and do this without any socks or wicking liners...just bare foot. And yer gal is in the athletic stance (you can use a short piece of 2x4 block placed under the toes to help with the athletic stance and keep her heel tilted into the pocket), heel in the pocket, boot latches are cinched. Then have her just stand there for 15-20 minutes until to boots cool. And or use some ice or cooler packs to wrap the boot to speed the process cooling/hardening process. Then do the other foot.
d. So plan on spending a day or two doing short tours and have your boot fitting foam, scissors, painter's/duct tape so that you can do minor tweaks. Don't go let hot spots get to the point where there are blistering. Make adjustments before.
4. Then if needed/desired, do the pivot to piviot cable shorting mod as noted in the hardboot post. That mod will lock down and keep her heel in the pocket. She can loosen or not the buckle for touring. I generally just pop it open, unless traversing on steeps. it helps to prevent rolling your boot/ankle downhill and helps to maintain a solid bite on the uphill edge.
 
I ride backcountry with pslippers. Can't believe how good they feel. So comfortable after a good fitting. The amount of articulation in them when the link lever isn't latched is really impressive. Super responsive on the downhill. Doesn't feel like much of a downhill compromise at all, especially in powder when you're just floating.
 
I bought some Strapins -they need to be upgraded with metal buckles. I broke one of the plastic buckles the first time I cinched it tonight.
I bought some Strapins -they need to be upgraded with metal buckles. I broke one of the plastic buckles the first time I cinched it tonight.
Mate did you ever reach out? Please email me info.strapins@gmail.com as I want to make sure you have some. They have been bulletproof for many years now.
 
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