Your not going to hurt it. Press down, flex the scraper and scrape it off.
The areas where wax likes to stay is, right under the bindings.

Also wax has temp ranges. Use wax per the snow conditions.

 

It helps to sharpen your scraper before every scraping. Put a sheet of sandpaper flat on a table, and sand the scraper using something with a square edge like a book to keep a consistent angle on the edge. Even just a couple of passes on the sandpaper cleans off the old wax and gets the scraper edge factory sharp.

I also like to do some light passes with a brass and nylon brush right after scraping. You can feel and remove spots of excess wax this way, and it brings some of the base structure back out.

 

Honestly, maybe he's just faster than you. Except for some crazy extreme cases technique over wax any day.

 

Probably. But still my board was dragging and when we looked it had white, wax residue on the bottom. Supposedly, excess wax is no bueno.

 

This whole subject gets SOOOO much OVER thinking done around it.?‍♂ ??.

I Seriously doubt your leaving enough wax ON the board to noticeably slow it down. Wrong wax for snow conditions? That could be. But residual wax...? Nah!

Either way, Stop melting a bunch of wax onto your board and scraping it off.

Search for the "Crayon" method of waxing. It's fast, it's easy, it works & you don't even need to scrape. And your block of wax will last damn near FOREVER!!!! ????

 

Search for the "Crayon" method of waxing. It's fast, it's easy, it works & you don't even need to scrape. And your block of wax will last damn near FOREVER!!!!

I'll check out the reviews and if they look good I'll try it.

 

crayon method....but if you want the full Brazilian do a metal scraper and a roto brush.

 

Keep scraping.

Maybe the base of your board isn't flat, which is why you have spots of wax left over.

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk

 

If that's all true and you really do have pockets of wax visible on the board you're not using too much wax, you're DROWNING your board. Like 6-7+ times the amount of wax you need. Scraping is really only necessary to get rid of extreme excess wax. You need very little wax one line of small drips down each rail boom done. Crayon does sound liek the easiest way for you to instantly fix your problem as you can't really over crayon a board. But you should be able to figure out a drip wax still.

 

This last season, ive started just doing crayon method, going a little heavier near the edges, and then just skipping the scraping, by the end of the day the edges are all smoothed out and theres some residue in the middle, not the fastest out there, but I would say I bomb pretty fast and can keep up with most people. some people are in love with the whole waxing experience, while im just into the riding and HATE hotwaxing.

 

I hot waxed both my boards. The white bottom board looks great but the real result is on my board with a black bottom.
I sparingly dripped the wax and spread it. You can see the photo from before I scraped. As usual I end up the white (wax I guess) all over the board. Mostly the bottom feels smooth. Any spots that were sticky I scraped again. I stopped scraping when I wasn't yielding much. I then used a green scrub pad and finish with a poly brush. I feel like if I had an attachment for my drill to buff it out I could get it to look great.

So...some responses said not to worry about some excess wax. Is that white stuff excess wax? Is it harmless as far as not slowing me down? Is that "good enough" or should it be completely black like after I bring it to a shop? Could the white be dry spots with no wax? Will that slow me down? Any tips on how to not have white when I'm done?

Thanx!

 

That's a ton of wax, use a sharp scraper...infact use a thin metal scraper and pull it (don't push it). If you want a shiny black base like a shop, get a roto brush

Roto Brushes for Skis Snowboards

Roto-brushes with nylon, horsehair, brass and cork for ultimate race quality wax prepping.

www.racewax.com

 

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Seems ok. Not sure why there’s white. I wax my sons black based skis and never looks like that (white). But I don’t use scrub pad. Straight to nylon brush and use it like a buffing pad. It gets glossy. Maybe skip the scrubby next time and tell us your results.

As far as what the white wax does for performance—probably nothing. But imo the last step helps keep the wax on the base. If I scrape and ride as others have suggested, the wax just seems to wear off faster. In fact, I will often re-buff with nylon brush after one day on the mountain and it shines right back up. So I’m waxing every two days.

 

I don't worry too much about the long tip to tail scrapes, I do smaller scrapes and work my way down the board. Then look for those stubborn patches and scrape them some more. You should pretty much have no more shavings coming off then hit it with the scotch brite pad. The pad should give you that smooth glassy look and your done. Go ahead and brush but know after about a minute of riding the structure the brush made is gone, so unless your racing and can brush before each run there's little point.

I also agree with WigMar about the sharp scraper. I just got a plastic one and it does dull pretty easy, but I just use my edge file and a few scrapes later it's good as new.

 

The white wax makes me want to cry. There's either too much on there or it's not being absorbed into the base. The only reason it's white is because there's enough wax where it's built up and clowdy. You'll see that same thing at the binding inserts if you leave the bindings on while waxing.

Will this slow you down? Not if you're doing a few steep runs at high speed. That'll scrape that excess right off. Some guys I know that do a lot of spring and summer riding don't even scrape the wax, they just iron and go fast and let the snow and rails do the work.

But any white on a black base means you haven't scraped the wax off, or there are divots in the base that are getting missed.

 

Hey guys thanks for the replies

The yield on the wax I was getting so minimal it didn't seem like continuing to scrape to get tiny amounts of wax would make a difference in the amount of white. I focused my scraping to the problems areas and re-did them a couple times after initial scrape. I used a file to sharpen my scraper then I used sandpaper. I did that a few times and did notice it helping. If an incredible amount of scraping in each problem area is what it takes to not have any white then I'm just gonna have white. Especially since what I'm hearing from almost everybody is that it is not gonna slow me down.

I love the efficiency of power tools and would buy a rotary buffer but you guys are sayin it doesn't matter plus I read somewhere you can damage your base with it and finally there are a million choices nylon, horse hair, etc. I get overwhelmed and don't buy one. If I someone on here uses a specific one and likes it, I'd probably try it. But it sound s like all its gonna do is quell my OCD desire to have a nice lookin bottom.?

 

Just buy a nylon roto brush and axle for it.

RaceWax Snowboard White Nylon Rotobrush 300 mm

Ski snowboard wax and tuning tools with video instructional help for the do-it-yourself tuner.

www.racewax.com

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Just buy a nylon roto brush and axle for it.

That looks like a good one for what I want to do.
Do you use this or have you seen it used?
Would it get rid of the white on my board and should I even care (about a little remaining wax) ?

Thanx

 

I just got finished scraping one of my boards and have the same white spots. I've scraped so much and there is barely any wax coming off. Also, there appears to be black specks coming off so I stopped scraping. Seeing others saying it will come off after a couple runs is reassuring.

 

Just got finished scraping my other board and noticed it was much easier to scrape and I don't have the white spots. That being said, my older board (the one with the white spots after scraping) is an extruded base and my new board (no white spots after scraping) is a sintered base.

I know these bases soak in different amounts of wax, does that make a difference in the amount of scraping needed? BTW, both board received approximately the same amount of drip wax. (Don't mean to hijack the thread; thought this would help the OP since I was dealing with the same issues)

 

A nice looking bottom...that you don't even see...I'm guessing that you have more than OCD.

Tip about plastic scrapers; presuming that you have already sharpened your metal edges of the board, as you are scraping the wax, every few swipes, just take the plastic edge and scrape the plastic edge perpendicular on your board's metal edge. This will just shave a tad off the plastic edge of the scraper to keep it sharp. No reason to stop and file the plastic edge down.

 

I'm guessing that you have more than OCD.

Fair enough. But pointing that out to the internet, thus attempting to humiliate a stranger and newcomer to a forum says what about you?
Self-deprecating humor or a comment like that from a friend is one thing, what you did is something altogether different.

To everyone else that gave their input. Thank you! After years of not caring much about waxing my board, I've finally taken an interest to care more.
And the takeaway is my result is fine. If I figure out how to finish a board lookin as good as a shop does, great. If not, that's cool too.

 

Also make sure you guys are giving the base enough heat to open the pores and let the wax in. If the top sheet is a little warm your doing it right.

 

That wax isn't going to hurt anything, if you want to go faster it's on you to improve your form. Not saying you have bad form just saying that reducing drag is the best way to get faster. The air resistance of a rogue hand or sticking out butt, or micro speed checks, far exceeds that of a bit of wax over snow. My guess is if you were to trade boards with your buddy he'd still be faster.

I will say I think the wax is originating from the tip of the board and working it's way down, which is natural. Concentrate a little more on the tip where it curves. It's easy to neglect scraping there as well because of the shape and lack of leverage as the board flexes.

 

Plastic scrapers are pretty lame. Get a metal scraper, dull the 4 corners and try to wax with the least amount of wax you need to get full coverage. Then scrape as much wax as you can from the surface... if you want, get a cheap brillo pad and take a bit more wax away after you have scraped. Any effect from a bad scrape should be gone by your 2nd run at most.... so even if you do a shitty scrape, it won't stay terrible for a whole day.

I hate waxing and scraping, but I love a freshly waxed board. If it was a 0 effort thing, I would definitely wax before each day.... but because it's a hassle, I wax every once in a while but at least aim for a reasonably fresh waxed board before solid pow days or a trip.

 

One last thought. Are you scraping excess wax off before laying down new wax? That may account for buildup in spots.

 

Are you scraping excess wax off before laying down new wax? That may account for buildup in spots.

No. I plan to next time though. I doubt it will give me a shiny black bottom though. I scraped until there was barely any yield, can't imagine a lot coming more coming off. Plus the previous wax/scrape was done by a shop and looked great so I doubt there was much build up before I applied wax.

I just finished my first two days of riding of the season and my board felt plenty slick and felt the same as when I get it from a shop so I think whatever I did was good enough.
I was noticing the bottoms of people's boards plenty of them had the same amount of white stuff I did those were probably the homemade wax jobs. As I stated before based on the responses on this thread I'm thinking it just doesn't matter much and I'm pretty much over it. On the small chance it's my wax which is very old I was going to buy new wax cuz all use it anyway. When I'm in a shop and there waxing I'll try to watch and see what they do and see the result but other than that I'm done trying to get any better.

Here's a pic of my board after riding. Pretty much looked the same, maybe slightly less then when I started;

 

Tap the wax for a second on the iron base and then chalk/wipe/rub it over the base. Do this repeatedly. This will leave a thin smear of wax over the base before ironing in, leaving the maximum coverage with the least amount of waste.

Then get a SHARP scraper. This is the most important thing. You need to sharpen after each board you do as perspex will dull on the scraping edge. I put my 5mm scraper in a woodworking vice and file the edge with a medium file. This is quick. You want to have a crisp 90 degree edge on the scraper. A sharp scraper gives the quickest easiest way to take excess wax off.

I have a 300x120mm firm scotch pad that is on a handled grip that takes all the loose wax off after scraper.

Next hit it with a 300mm rotor brush. They are a little $$$ to initially set up but it's the best money you can spend for tuning.

Then finish off with a horse hair brush to polish up base. Looks brilliant when finished.

Another really important thing is to have a decent work station set up ie vices. I have a waxing station as well as a scraping set up which I do outside so any wax debris just goes on grass (No clean up). Buy good tools ie Toko, Swix, Diaface etc) They will last a long time.

I started about a decade a go doing this for my own gear and now do about 50 customers as a small business on the side.

 

If it's still white after a couple runs, it's not even touching the snow.

 

That's how it looked when I was heading home as well.

I got a lot of good advice from everybody. If I still cared about producing a fully black, glossy bottom, I'd follow Craig51's advice as well as a lot of other tips in this thread. But the boards performed well and not one respondent said that white will slow me down and most said it didn't matter.

I will buy some new wax that I've seen recommended on here, maybe a tool or two and I'll try and use less wax (I'll try Craig51's tip about smearing before ironing) but I'm no longer fixated on getting a perfect result.