I don't have enough experience to be sure, but I do know I don't want some super hard charger that is only happy at 50mph.

You might want to re-think that if your goal is carving and double-positive angles. The real carvers are those guys with the long skinny boards and hard boots, and they ride those boards for a reason.

Kind of like "there's no replacement for displacement" carving on a shorter board is do-able, but it's just a whole lot more fun on a longer board. If you haven't ridden a long camber board recently I'd at least demo one before buying. Longer boards can be faster, but one benefit of carving with them is that you can carve much harder at lower speeds than on a short board.

I'm only saying this since you have a quiver already and "long carving board" isn't represented there.

 

While I want to carve, I don't want to only carve. I also appreciate the locked in yet still slashy style of the gentem/moss riders (in comparison to straight carving hard booters) as it looks like a lot of fun. I'm trying to find a balance between carving specific boarder-cross boards and something that I can use all over the mountain and still lay down better carves than on my current equipment. I guess you could call it the search for a "all-mountain carving board" rather than "all-mountain freestyle" that a lot of boards are labeled. That's why I specifically noted the riding styles of the Japanese riders rather than hard boot / boarder-cross guys. While I'd enjoy trying that out at some point, I feel like it may not be versatile enough for me. That being said, I definitely want to try one of those longer camber carving boards as the idea of slower speed deep carves is appealing.

I do appreciate your opinion though and am hoping to demo a lot of different carving boards at some point in this upcoming season.

 

I moved to the mountains two season ago and bought my first board (after learning to snowboard twenty years ago). I'm looking to get into something with full camber that can rail carves. I've watched a lot of the videos coming out of Japan with their style of riding and it really speaks to me. I enjoy ripping big carves and honestly enjoying playing all over the mountain without just straight-lining and bombing. There's a place for it, but I feel that the magic of the turn is what really gets me. My first step is experimenting with double positive binding angles (never tried them) and seeing how that effects my riding. I do ride a bit of switch, and prefer a board that can at least do it when the need arises (landing switch, easier route through the trees switching over, etc.) I think the perfect board for me would be something that you size down, can still handle speed, can really hold an edge, has a large sidecut that can rail turns, a bigger nose and maybe some early rise to still handle some pow, and can handle a bit of switch riding (buttering/screwing around too). I tend to enjoy shorter wider boards in my limited experience, but I'm not married to them. I don't have enough experience to be sure, but I do know I don't want some super hard charger that is only happy at 50mph.

Stats:
5'9" - 155lbs - 9.5US Boot - Adv. Intermediate / Advanced

- Elevated Surfcraft Goldfish / Redtail Hawk (love the idea of these, but a little pricey if I can't find one used)
- K2 Simple Pleasures
- Korua Shapes - Cafe Racer / Tranny Finder
- United Shaped Cadet
- YES Optimistic (may be too aggressive for what I'm looking for?)

Any and all advice would be great in regards to what I'm looking for.

BTW I have a pair of Union Stratas and a Ride Vice bindings if that matters and I'm trying to break in a pair of ThirtyTwo TM-3s in the off-season.

Thanks!

Even if I'm not being an advanced rider or an expert carver I couldn't agree more. The turning is where it's at Both in powder and on piste.

When I think about snowsurfing I think about carving different sized carves depending on the terrain. For some I think it's surfing in the powder. Sowsurfing seems like such a general term. Maybe a fluid kind of riding where you ride the features and terrain

What's a long sidecut in your opinion? I'm wondering since you're talking about shorter boards. Of the Korua boards, maybe you should have a look at the 159 Pencil? It has a moderate taper for a Korua. I ride the 164 Pencil Plus. It's a super cool board but hard to ride in choppy resort snow, the classic version could be better. I'm not sure that you have to pick the Cafe Racer or the Tranny Finder.

I've noticed that some of the Gentems and Moss have a much shorter radius towards the tail. The Korua is not like that, it has a longer sidecut towards the tail. Personally I love my Korua but wouldn't have minded a bit of less taper (like on the 159 Pencil). The Pencil also rides powder very nicely.

I looked up the Moss U5:

LENGTH: 1570
R. LENGTH: 864
EF. EDGE: 1060
SISDECUT: 9800/6900
NOSE/TAIL: 310/262/292
STANCE WIDTH: 540 (520-640)
SET BACK: -46.5

Thats's quite a variable sidecut... and a Korua should ride the exact opposite from this, it turns harder in the start of the turn when you ride on your front foot. What seems really cool about the Moss is the taper combined with a shorter sidecut in the tail.

Yes (like the Pick Your Line and Hybrid, Nitro and Maybe K2 have some boards that have a shorter sidecut towards the tail. I've never tried them, but maybe they ride a little like those Japanese boards (which I also never rode... haha).

Another board that comes to mind is the Nidecker Area. From what I understand it's also very good at absorbing resort chop and I'd really like to try one out.

You might want to re-think that if your goal is carving and double-positive angles. The real carvers are those guys with the long skinny boards and hard boots, and they ride those boards for a reason.

Kind of like "there's no replacement for displacement" carving on a shorter board is do-able, but it's just a whole lot more fun on a longer board. If you haven't ridden a long camber board recently I'd at least demo one before buying. Longer boards can be faster, but one benefit of carving with them is that you can carve much harder at lower speeds than on a short board.

I'm only saying this since you have a quiver already and "long carving board" isn't represented there.

But... the "snowsurfing" isn't really riding like the eurocarving hardbooters.

Valid points though. If not only for the longer effective edge and the possibility for a longer sidecut. Without being an expert carver I think that short, stiff boards with a shorter sidecut isn't really the best idea for the "snowsurfing". You want the board to be able to bend into into the turning radius and a stiffer board makes that harder. So... a stiff board with a short radius sidecut is the hardest to turn right since it needs more force to bend into a much smaller radius.

 

When I think about snowsurfing I think about carving different sized carves depending on the terrain. For some I think it's surfing in the powder. Sowsurfing seems like such a general term. Maybe a fluid kind of riding where you ride the features and terrain

What's a long sidecut in your opinion?

Agree with the fluid kind of riding, that's what I'm after and that's what I'm realizing is my favorite style of riding. The reason I'm not as interested in hardboot carving is because it seems like that style of riding requires mostly freshly groomed runs and doesn't take into account much of the terrain which is not what I'm going for.

Like you said, it really does depend on the flex of the board, length, effective edge, etc. Some boards with 7M sidecut radii carve better than 9M sidecut radii just due to flex (torsional and end to end). A lot of the boards Japanese "snowsurfer" style riders have are shorter and wider, but they still have long effective edges due to things like swallow tails or different tail shapes and are setback quite a bit (but often still centered on the sidecut).

But... the "snowsurfing" isn't really riding like the eurocarving hardbooters.

Agree with that. It's quite different. Also, I completely agree that no one is carving as hard as people on boardercross boards w/hard boots, but it's not the style I want to go for (but I'm happy to try it one day if I get the opportunity).

 

I have been through this and continue to search for western boards built to turn like Japanese ones. They turn different. It's hard to quantify.

What I have ridden that let's me get what I feel like is a similar feel to Moss, Gentem, Tj...

K2 Simple Pleaures, Rome Ravine, K2 Overboard, Burton Hometown Hero, Gnu Hyper Kyarve.

A couple I have not ridden but have some high hopes for are the Yes Y and Gnu NuZoid. The Y being a "lower end" Optimistic might make it just soft enough to add the right amount of playfulness. The Zoid would be on this list if Gnu still made it, so the NuZoid being a Zoid mid wide has me very excited.

 

How is the flex pattern on the Japanese boards in general? I'm just speculating that maybe they have a softer tail in combination with the shorter sidecut there...

 

I just wrote a huge reply and lost it before it posted lol.
Just quickly. There will be 2 more Japanese made options before winter this season.
The Taiyaki 138 and Taiyaki twin 138 that I will be making with my very own hands. :grin:

 

Looking forward to hearing your thoughts and info on your boards.

Unless I'm on my phone, I tend to type long replies in word and copy and paste after losing a few big ones in the past.

 

Shameless plug lol. For stoke more than trying go sell shit. Doing business in Japan is crazy expensive so thats why prices seem so high compared to other international markets.
What that means is I dont expect to sell many outside Japan which frees me of the burden of needing to push my shit on here.
Anything I say is purely based on stoke, I really really love this stuff .

https://m.imgur.com/gallery/zfwlOlx
https://m.imgur.com/gallery/8yVVjbM

 

Amazing looking board and sick graphics. What are the specs of it?

Also, any production boards or boards that you can find more easily in the US that you would compare to it? I doubt I could afford one of your rides.

 

Are the inserts on the snackfish offset or is it just the photo angle?

 

The inserts are offset and reduced width on that board.
40x25 pattern.
I did this to allow me a very wide range of binding movement.
As I was learning to carve I would set up all to to toe, or all to the heel. It helped me a lot in soft snow conditions as this board was wide enough for my US10 boot but only in firm snow.

Nice eye you have there Rip :grin:

 

Should check out Ryan Knapton on YouTube. He's an amazing carver with ridiculous butters and gives tips and board recommendations. I'd recommend to have two boards. One for carving and one for all mountain days. https://instagram.com/ryan_knapton?igshid=ynd1u12bqd72

 

Knapton is good at one kind of carving. And I've seen him basically state that though can't carve deep on regular width boards. Which he used to ride a Custom X btw. He gets a kickback every time he makes a successful referral to Donek. Keep that in mind if you ever do ask for advice.

 

Do you think it’s a foot size issue or a technique issue that limits him to super wide boards?

 

It is his style. He rides twins with duck stance so he can carve etc in both directions and get the board high on edge. He has duct tape on his jacket arms to allow him to get body parallel to ground when on edge

Has evolved over time wider and wider, and with bigger sidecut as well (Currently 12 or 13m I think)

If you are not switch carving or carving at extreme angles you don't need that type of board

 

That sidecut is a huge reason his waists are so wide. The larger sidecut you go with the wider you'll need your waist to be to maintain a certain width at inserts.


Which is why we need to stop using the ski measurement of waist width and move to width at inderts.

 

^preach the good word!

 

I went from a board designed to carve and ride switch (typical western style all-mountain) to a board designed to snowsurf (Japan style across all conditions). They are not comparable. I'll never ride anything but a dedicated snowsurfer again. My comments below are in blue

I moved to the mountains two season ago and bought my first board (after learning to snowboard twenty years ago)...

Moved from the coast? Do you surf on water? Perspective is everything. I wouldn't recommend a snowsurfer to someone who doesn't have the experience to rail it ... they may be disappointed. It sounds like you are ready for the magic to happen though. I went down a similar road of trying to find a board in the US that'll work best for snowsurfing in ALL conditions, not just pow. I didn't find much help here, folks labeled boards I was looking at as a "pow" quiver board. Built in to the minds of western snowboarders is a resistance to any snowboard not shaped like a pill . People simply aren't breaking down snowsurfing and board design on this forum, I wish they would!

I enjoy ripping big carves and honestly enjoying playing all over the mountain without just straight-lining and bombing. There's a place for it, but I feel that the magic of the turn is what really gets me.

Me too. In snowboarding, surfing, skateboarding and mountain biking I strive to find (or design myself) the perfect weapon to rail turns given my height, weight, skill and terrain. You can't have everything. If turning is what matters most to you then you need to compromise on other design factors, like switch for example.

I do ride a bit of switch, and prefer a board that can at least do it when the need arises (landing switch, easier route through the trees switching over, etc.) ...

Get over it, I did and haven't looked back. Once I had the right board in trees I no longer needed to ride switch. Why? Because the board turns so well. My line choices have increased exponentially. The board will ride switch briefly when needed but that is rare. It'll butter and press too, not great, but it'll do it.

I think the perfect board for me would be something that you size down, can still handle speed, can really hold an edge, has a large sidecut that can rail turns, a bigger nose and maybe some early rise to still handle some pow, and can handle a bit of switch riding (buttering/screwing around too).

I made this mistake too, thinking I could come up with a host of design parameters that would lead me to my perfect board. The board doesn't exist and if it did it probably wouldn't work! Each design parameter effects the rest. My designed board would be like a primordial soup, while a good shapers board is a highly evolved creature. I thought I wanted a larger sidecut like you do, and I was wrong! What I ended up with was a board with less sidecut than I thought I wanted but will still rail long, medium and short radius turns. It'll also break-free and re-engage the edge whenever I please. I'd suggest having faith that your board shaper has taken all the factors in to account in designing a board that turns beautifully.

My current quiver is:

A bunch of boards I too was almost snookered in to buying because they seemed like a fit. So glad I didn't! Although that Ride Warpig is a nice board if they would just narrow up the stance a bit more. I had considered putting my son on that board as a budget compromise to buying a true snowsurfer


Below is my short list which I'm sure I'll add to with your responses, please feel free to comment on any and all if you have experience with them. What other boards would you guys recommend I look at?

Snofisk and SnowPlanks.

I know that a Gentemstick or Moss Snowstick would probably be ideal, but they are a LOT of money.

Unless a swallow tail significantly adds to the ride, I'd prefer a non-swallow for better switch (if that's a thing).

UGGG!!!! So happy with my swallow, but I care about turning. I only turn on average every few seconds from the very top of the run to the very bottom of the run, for like 8 hours a day so I guess it isn't THAT important what the turn feels like :wink: There may be other tails like a pin that'll be more switch friendly but I haven't ridden those on snow and compared to my swallow. All I know is I dislike other tails when I surf on water, but my swallow tail puts a huge grin on my face and works almost everywhere.

- Elevated Surfcraft Goldfish / Redtail Hawk (love the idea of these, but a little pricey if I can't find one used)
- K2 Simple Pleasures
- Korua Shapes - Cafe Racer / Tranny Finder
- United Shaped Cadet
- YES Optimistic (may be too aggressive for what I'm looking for?)

You are on the right track with the Goldfish. Aaron shapes them, nice guy who knows what he is doing and rips at snowsurfing! He is one of the few people I came across in my search here in the states that is actually designing boards I would ride. Also google JH Powwow, you'll find other shapers/designs to ponder

Any and all advice would be great in regards to what I'm looking for.

Contact James Nicole at Snowplanks in Bend Oregon. I ride one of his board designs, the asym fish 166. He designed it around himself and happens to be my approx. height, weight and foot size so I was able to buy off-the-shelf, but once this one wears out I may tweak a thing or two in a custom build (add a few mm width if James thinks it'll work right). If I were you I would look at the asym 159 but check with James. I believe Aaron at SurfCraft is closer to your size so check with him too, he may have something off the shelf that'll work for you

BTW I have a pair of Union Stratas and a Ride Vice bindings if that matters and I'm trying to break in a pair of ThirtyTwo TM-3s in the off-season.

It matters but I don't think it's the end all be all. I ride NOW bindings until I find something better. Definitely replicates the feeling of surfing during turn initiation, and they are responsive. Loose feeling when I need them to be but not sloppy.

Thanks!

 

Thank you everyone for the replies. I'm familiar with Knapton and he's excellent at what he does, but his style of riding really requires BIG empty wide open groomers. He gets out early in the AM before the crowds to film all his stuff. He's also a god at switch and can carve almost as well as regular, but that's not exactly the style I'm after (although if I could ride like him I'd definitely do it!). Honestly its the same reason I'm leaning more towards the Japanese style over the Knapton style or even hard booting.

Paxford -- your thinking mirrors mine and the goldfish and snoplanks asym fish 159 are on my short list. Unfortunately, both of those boards are so pricey (which I understand because of how they are made) so I was hoping to find an alternative without breaking the bank. I did speak with one person who owns gentems, mosses, a goldfish, and asym fish, and a whole host of other boards (thanks!) and definitely think the asym fish would suit me better for all mountain riding than the goldfish. He has never ridden anything with the pop/turn and ride of the asym fish. Is that your experience too? Any other boards you've ridden that can come close?

If a 159 regular asym fish popped up on eBay I'd snap it up in a second, but $800+shipping is a tough pill to swallow (no pun intended).

Thanks!

 

Sorry for the late reply, work's been crazy.

Nothing comes close but my experience before this is limited to western style boards. The fish feels like a higher volume shortboard built to generate speed easy and turn on a dime in waves up to about 8 ft. It's got some fun and playful flex but will also do short, medium and long radius carves or skidded turns easier than anything I've ridden. It's easy to pump and trim when riding sides of bowls or man-made vertical structure. I like to surf through smaller parks with it, no stops, no switch, just jumps, carving banks and flow. The board is excellent in trees and it will do turns in pow off the front foot. Did I mention it carves up the pow like a hot knife? Ice is a weakness. Asym is good and bad. While it makes the board turn amazing if your straightlining slow on the flats and not paying attention it can drift unexpectedly and catch an edge on ice. Just be aware of it. I try and keep it on edge in ice, in more forgiving snow it isn't a concern.

I never thought I would prefer snowboarding to surfing until I got this board. It's opened up a whole new world that I seem to be pretty alone in, because 95% of folks where I snowsurf (SoCal, Mammoth, Utah) ride straight or skid turns and seem to be focused on park and the industries "All-Mountain" or "Freeride" versions of park. Too much skate focus, not enough surf focus in those designs. A board can't do everything well, but people want it all so that's what the industry delivers ... all-rounders that don't turn as efficiently as they could.

 

No problem and thanks for the reply. When you say ice is a weakness, do you mean like sheets of it or just does it not do well in hard early morning conditions before the sun softens them up?

It sounds perfect except for the $800 price... hah

 

When your on the lift in the morning and all you hear is loud grinding from the folks riding below cautiously (because they fear for their life) that’s the ice I’m talking about. I can still ride it but I can’t push it nearly as hard for fear of washout. I suspect only magnetraction would work ok there. If it’s a a bit Icey but when you lay down an edge it breaks through the granular surface then the board works well enough.

 

JSIL, what did you end up with? I'm still looking for western boards that are true snowsurfers, not some compromise.

 

I ended up on an Amplid Surfari and it's amazing. Not quite a snowsurf style board because it is an EXTREMELY locked in carve, but this is the best board I've ever ridden. In fact, Amplid has some from a couple years ago for ~$350 w/shipping included from Europe. I paid $640 and I'm still happy with the purchase.

Can't say more about how amazing this board is for carving. Still want to try some other boards, but the rest of my quiver is getting dusty after picking this up.

In my experience, I'd say for carving and pow this is the best bargain in snowboarding.

 

Have you guys tried the K2 simple pleasures yet? Ive been enjoying mine since last season and I think I do the kind of carving you guys are talking about, sweet board and not too expensive.

 

I almost bought the 156 yesterday. Too small for my rear boot. Wish they made it a little wider.

 

The K2 SP’s been on my radar since I bought my asym fish last year. I found one on clearance last season for $300. In fact it was my first choice before I discovered the fish. My plan is to compile a bunch of cheaper western boards as options then buy whatever is a smokin deal come the off season.

Is the SP damp? Chatter?

 

Well, Amplid makes some super solid boards. I’ve been riding my Unw8 163 more and more lately. Trying to fight the urge to buy a 159 for a daily driver. That Antiphase seems to really work on hard crud and soft moguls that you just carve through if your legs can still take that hard work out.

 

What's the Amplid Stereo like as a one board quiver?

 

I really want that Surfari now. Damn this forum!! I’m 145lbs without gear and never ride boards as long as 157 though...

 

This thread has been helpful for me in understanding how a dedicated snowsurf deck works compared to a more conventional setup. Gotta be careful with camber in selecting boards for snowsurfing. Too much camber will limit your progression. Light camber or flat with early rise nose seems to be the ticket.

 

Surprised nobody mentioned the Dupraz. Their snowboard's are measured in feet like surf boards. I never tried any Japanese boards but the carving and the float of a Dupraz definitely felt unique. Can anyone compare a Japanese deck vs the 5'5 or 6' from Dupraz?

 

Currently own a Dupraz D1 6'+, a Moss Wingswallow 149, a Moss SW62, and a United Shapes Cadet 162. Previously owned Moss PQ54 and K2 Cool Bean 150. Also have demoed a Korua Tranny Finder 157, Moss SW70, Moss Long 184, Moss U5 156, Moss PQ60, Gentemstick Chaser 156, a Nitro Quiver Pow 154, took like 3 turns on an Elevated Surf Craft prototype that I think never made it to production. So I have a bit of experience with the snowsurf thing. I'm not going to review every single one of those boards, but I'll speak in broad strokes.

Major difference between carving on an all-mountain board a la Knapton and carving on a snowsurfer. All-mountain boards attack, snowsurfers flow. All-mountain boards have more power, more edgehold in the tail, more pop transitioning turn to turn. Snowsurf boards are a lot more relaxed, flowy, generally much more relaxed feel. They're easier to both initiate turns on an exit turns on. I find they tend to be more rear-foot driven, like surfing. I feel like I'm accelerating through turns and I can generally lay over at much lower speeds and on lower grade pitches. I can lay similar lines on my all-mountain freeride Rome Blur 162, but the feel and vibe is completely different. On the Blur, if I see two rollers a few yards apart, I might try to hop the near one and use the far one as a landing. On a snowsurfer, I'm much less likely to leave the ground and might try to see how well I can paint lines through the tranny between the two.

Personally, snowsurfers have completely changed the way I look at the mountain. I used to be a a straight and fast, fall-line sort of rider. Snowsurf has caused me to slow down a lot because I'm taking a lot more turns but also reading the terrain much more actively. Instead of riding the steepest, most efficient way down, I'm always on the lookout for little changes in grade, random banks, and stuff to hit. Snowsurf also makes flatter resorts a lot more interesting. I used to hate on Northstar (sometimes derided as "Flatstar") in Tahoe a lot, but it's actually a fantastic mountain for snowsurf (when it's not crowded with jerries). The experience has generally changed the way I approach the mountain on my all-mountain decks too. I still ride fast, but I'm turning a hell of lot more than I used to.

My stances on the snowsurf boards tend to be much more aggressively double posi and narrower. All-mountain I run around +21-24, -3, 22-23". Snowsurf I often run more like +27/30, +12, 20.5-21.5". For giggles I once tried running +27/+12 on a Niche Aether... disengaging a twin tail on carves was exhausting.

On the $$$$ Japanese snow surfers... won't necessarily call them better. In some ways they're quite limited. But they ride unlike anything else I've ridden before. Very different, and each of the boards has a pretty distinct personality... most all-mountain directional-twin boards I ride kind of blend together unless I really like them or really dislike them. Most fall into a kind of grey zone where I thought they were good enough but didn't stand out. I distinctly remember every Moss or Gentem I've put to snow. I didn't necessarily like all of them, but I remember all of them.

Like I said, some limitations. You'd be surprised how well the riding translates considering they're built for Japanese mountains. I'm 210 lbs and ride Tahoe, so I'm significantly bigger and riding much heavier snow pack in much gnarlier terrain than vast majority of Moss consumers. Even on the Wingswallow 149, I feel surprisingly comfortable out there. Biggest issue I've had with them is durability. Can't speak to Gentems, but I learned the hard way on my PQ54 at Jackson Hole that Moss boards have thin bases and don't hold up to scree very well. They're just not optimized to that sort of terrain, so I'd hold them back at certain mountains. That said, only a handful of spots I've ridden so far I won't ride them at. I wouldn't take one out at Sankt Anton, Jackson Hole, or Snowbird... which are all like top 20 gnarliest resorts in the world sort of gnarly. On gnarly mountains I know well, like Squaw or Kirkwood, I feel a lot more comfortable because I know the places and conditions where I can comfortably ride them. Because of the cost of replacing them, and the lack of spots in the US I trust to properly tune them, I do feel I need to baby them and generally err towards not bringing them out if I'm worried about conditions or at unfamiliar mountains. So while they're worth it to me, I have to means to drop that cash (even heavily discounted, a lot of cash) for that luxury and have other boards to supplement in steeper, higher risk conditions.

Snowsurfers exists on a continuum too. Koruas and United Shapes are more hybrid all-mountain/snowsurfer boards. United Shapes is a pretty good "intro to snowsurfer" kind of company. My Cadet was my "starter" snowsurf board, and all-mountain deck that bridges the gap a bit. It has a bit more a rear-foot driven ride on groomers, but I feel comfortable dropping pretty heavy terrain on that thing, and it was my go-to at Jackson Hole once I realized the PQ54 wasn't going to be able to take the punishment. The Tranny Finder was a bit more exotic, but similarly felt I could it worry-free. This hybrid zone might be where I end up eventually end up after I'm done with my snowsurf phase.


Dupraz is its own beast entirely. I ride it with more of an all-mountain stance. That thing craves speed and is a rocket. It carves like crap at slow speeds but with huge size and bigger sidecut (8.7m), it's one of the few boards I feel comfortable driving up on edge at like 50+ mph. Typically when I get that fast, I just go straight and do micro adjustment turns. MUCH more power out of the tail-- the "setback" is actually forward of center sidecut. I don't really know why it works, maybe because that long nose counterbalances the weight or something. Short of really tight trees or couloirs, I'd feel comfortable dropping just about any inbounds terrain on the Dupraz. Also takes a hit a hell of lot better than the Japanese boards, held up pretty well to some shark attacks at Snowbird. They're built for the French Alps, so that all makes sense.

Only really complaints I have... 178 cm of board a load to handle in tight spaces. I was positioning to heelside down into a little mini-couloir in Mineral Basin at Snowbird and found myself suspended in air because the entry narrowed and both my nose and tail caught. Only way I was getting out of that situation was by unstrapping and climbing down, or popping 90 and dropping straight... which would have been fine if the mini-couloir was filled in. Thankfully I think I avoided nailing any rocks... that time lol. Also it's to be expected, but 178 is a lot of weight to be carrying off one foot on the chairlift lol.

 

Last season I was doin my thing and I spotted another rider. It’s very rare to find anyone who can ride like that in my area. He was on a dupraz. Can’t say whether the dude had skills or it was the board or a bit of both, but the Dupraz is on my radar.

 

If I were to get a “surf carve” board I wouldn’t opt for full camber. Doesn’t make sense - too locked in to slash. Full camber is for euro/American style carving. For Japanese surf style turns I’m going with a something from Elevated Surfcraft fosho. Something Srockered, flat or back foot cambered.

Cam rock will strike a happy medium between the styles, which is where I sit.

 

That makes sense. I got extremely lucky with my current deck because the designer went through iterations making the board for himself. He is about the same height, weight and foot size as me.

So very light camber to flat to camrock variety yes but I think there’s more to a board that excels in turns on 3D terrain. Maybe really spot on sizing, or more narrow stance options, or early rise, or a certain amount of setback is needed. I dunno. I do know if I widen my stance my current deck rides like absolute shit. Narrow it back up and the board is back to absolute magic.