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easy carving board for ice and powder

20K views 71 replies 30 participants last post by  lottie  
#1 · (Edited)
Hi guys, would love a specific recommendation please. I get confused with so much info/tech out there

I currently own a salomon fastback 167 (i think it was the precursor to the Burner). I've been riding for about 12 years and am pretty comfortable on all of the mountain. However, these days (with two young daughters) I'll only be boarding a handful days each year and want a board that is ...

a) easier to turn tight turns on steep slopes without too much skidding
b) handles east coast ice
c) handles powder for occasional trip out west
d) It's all about carving and big mountain for me. Zero interest in the park or doing jumps/tricks, or even needing to ride switch. I just want to lay sweet carves and explore the mountain.
e) Older now so don't want to work too hard to find and keep the edge, and stay nimble. I'll sacrifice speed if i need to.

What would you recommend? I've been thinking about the following boards:

1) the Rossignol One
2) Rossignol the XV
3) Niche Story
4) K2 Carveair
5) Custom X or Jones Flagship

Thank you in advance

p.s. I weigh 190 am 6'2" and have size 11 boots
 
#3 · (Edited)
Hi I got back into boarding after 20 year last year. I picked up a nitro suprateam used 163 in like new i condition with Burton CO2 bindings . It is a great board .

However I got like new used k2 Carveair this year. IT is off the hook. Love love love the board. Great for steep powder, wicked on the groomers, just so much fun. The updated version of carveair from K2 is called simple pleasures. It is from what I have been told from people a quiver killer.











Hi guys, would love a specific recommendation please. I get confused with so much info/tech out there



I currently own a salomon fastback 167 (i think it was the precursor to the Burner). I've been riding for about 12 years and am pretty comfortable on all of the mountain. However, these days (with two young daughters) I'll only be boarding a handful days each year and want a board that is ...



a) easier to turn tight turns on steep slopes without too much skidding

b) handles east coast ice

c) handles powder for occasional trip out west

d) It's all about carving and big mountain for me. Zero interest in the park or doing jumps/tricks, or even needing to ride switch. I just want to lay sweet carves and explore the mountain.

e) Older now so don't want to work too hard to find and keep the edge, and stay nimble. I'll sacrifice speed if i need to.



What would you recommend? I've been thinking about the following boards:



1) the Rossignol One

2) Rossignol the XV

3) Niche Story

4) K2 Carveair

5) Custom X or Jones Flagship



Thank you in advance



p.s. I weigh 190 am 6'2" and have size 11 boots
 
#5 ·
Are you going to be riding with the kids? If so you might want something that's more nimble at slow speeds. If not it looks like you have a decent list. Out of the boards you listed I have only ridden the Custom X and Flagship. Both are suitable to ripping around and dealing with ice. The Flagship probably has the edge in powder(haven't ridden a custom x in pow). I'm 6', 200lbs, size 10.5 boot, own the Flagship 162w and love it. Another one to consider is the Never Summer Chairman. I demoed that in both the 164 and 165x(wide) and it really holds an edge on hard and icey east coast conditions despite what some people might claim about the crc camber profile. It has a longer effective edge for its overall length than most boards I have ridden.
 
#8 ·
Look at the Endeavor Maverick. It’s a good carver and it is nicely put together. Just look at all that effective edge. The board is all edge but still has s good shovel on it. Not many mainstream boards are doing it that way yet. But I believe it’s coming. Certainly the high end Donek and Prior and SG soft boot carve boards have been using a hammerhead -for lack of a better word- type shape for their soft boot carvering boards. That’s the shape used for boardecross boards too. But BX boards are built to go straight down on account of large turning radius and super stiffness. Can’t recommend one for casual vxzdvUninterrupted long edges with true camber will hold an edge and crush it on firm snow and ice. Also check on Fullbag Diamondblade.
I havent touched one but I see it is getting some good reviews by riders who want to go one way only and carve big turns. I held some Korua boards in my hands last week but didn’t feel tempted. Just eyeballing it and bending the boards in the shop, it seemed to me like they were too pow-carve specific for my purposes. They pretty much all seemed too small for me.
 
#11 ·
Look at the Endeavor Maverick. It’s a good carver and it is nicely put together. Just look at all that effective edge. The board is all edge but still has s good shovel on it.
It's really not... 1220mm of EE on the 165, my 160 Whiteout has 1240mm.

I love Endeavor boards and I think both the Maverick and Archetype would be a good fit, but not quite as carving focused as the OP would like.
 
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#13 ·
Its an old question on here. You want a pow board and carving board in one. Not really a good mix. You should to pick one of those areas as the primary and one as the secondary and pick based on that. IMHO. meaning "want a carving board that does fine in pow" or visa versa. Others are going to jump on here and flame me for saying this.....but it is give and take in those areas. They just dont make a 10/10 carver that is 10/10 pow. I have been on pow boards that surprised me with their carving ability.....but they still weren't carvers. I think your question is that you are looking for an all mountain.

There is true magic riding a pow board in pow and same with a true carver on a fresh groomer. i think you need to decide which area you can drop some of the magic :) If you ride east coast mostly I think that tells you and you would then look for an All Mountain that is carve centric. IMHO
 
#14 ·
Its an old question on here. You want a pow board and carving board in one. Not really a good mix. You should to pick one of those areas as the primary and one as the secondary and pick based on that. IMHO. meaning "want a carving board that does fine in pow" or visa versa. Others are going to jump on here and flame me for saying this.....but it is give and take in those areas. They just dont make a 10/10 carver that is 10/10 pow. I have been on pow boards that surprised me with their carving ability.....but they still weren't carvers. I think your question is that you are looking for an all mountain.

There is true magic riding a pow board in pow and same with a true carver on a fresh groomer. i think you need to decide which area you can drop some of the magic <img src="http://www.snowboardingforum.com/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" class="inlineimg" /> If you ride east coast mostly I think that tells you and you would then look for an All Mountain that is carve centric. IMHO
You are right, there are going to be some compromises. One option is to just get a more freeride oriented board that can handle both pretty well. Flagship, Billy Goat, XV etc. There are plenty of them to choose from.
 
#20 ·
Disagree:
1. Skinny is not a given/necessity for carving at all - it very much depends on the stance/boots set-up. Also skinny can be ok in pow if there is enough nose (in terms of width or length).
2. Stiffness helps for carving but unless you're going serious speeds it doesn't need to be over the top. A surprising number of carving boards are quite mid-flex. Similarly for pow, you don't want too stiff but also not a noodle - mid-flex works just nicely.
3. Yes clearly camber (or camber dominant), long edges, and lateral stiffness for for carving. Those are all fine for pow too.
 
#23 ·
So, lots of people get all nerdy and asthmatic when someone mentions carving. 99.99% of people are not talking about hardboot level carving when they say carving. Which means there are a quite a few boards that excel at carving and pow. Cause if you're not talking gate bashing carves, pow float and carving are basically independent of each other when youre talking board shape. Float is pretty much nose volume vs tail volume. So, nail that and literally everything else about a board can be tailored to carve. Most brand's know this now which is why, including 2019, you have just about every brand with a deck that rips carves and floats in the deepness.
 
#26 ·
That's simply because pow and "carving" boards share a lot of caracteristics needed to perform at both. They both work a whole lot better with taper, setback, and when they don't fold fore of the front binding. That is why the main brands are now marketing their pow boards for both. Strangely, they did not seem to know this before the pow/carve board craze (rolling eyes)... What is now considered a pow board will be outperformed by a carving board when higher speeds and harder conditions will come into play. Longer effective edge, a bit less sidecut, no wavy edges, and stiffer flex will be highly desirable.
 
#24 ·
Rome Blur

Great information all. Thank you much.

A good point is that I'll definitely be carving more than doing powder. But want it to be good at both. And i don't want to work too hard all the time, and on steeper slopes want a smaller turning radius

I'm leaning towards the Rome Blur. Probably the 159 or 162 (i'm 190 lbs and 6'2"). It seems they are east coast based and it's a traditional feeling board that has some tech for powder and is easier to handle than my Salomon Fastback 167.
 
#25 ·
You sound like my bigger twin. I also ride a Salomon Fastback (a 160 from around 2002), have two kids skiing age and live in New England. I've been snowboarding since the 90's but took time off because of kids/college/life but started going up regularly the last couple of years. I'm starting to look for something modern and a little more playful (e.g. capita mercury, jones twin, arbor coda, etc.) because the Fastback still feels like it excels at what it was designed to do - stiff full camber freeride deck that rips carves. I'm curious what a modern board will fee like. Let us know what you end up getting.
 
#43 ·
Endeavor makes a board specifically for the soft boot carving craze in Asia. The Hammerhead. I think you can only get it in Asia.

It's a stiff camber board with a tons of EE. The 157cm has 132.6cm EE. It has a narrow waist (246). I noticed most people ride it with a forward angles. Probably due to the narrow waist.
 
#47 · (Edited)
Endeavor makes a board specifically for the soft boot carving craze in Asia. The Hammerhead. I think you can only get it in Asia.



It's a stiff camber board with a tons of EE. The 157cm has 132.6cm EE. It has a narrow waist (246). I noticed most people ride it with a forward angles. Probably due to the narrow waist.


Its called the Select Hammer SMU. Not a bad ride as softboot carvers go from a day of demo I had on it. Pales in popularity to the Japanese brands like Gray, Moss, Ogasaka, etc. though.

 
#46 ·
He referred "easy" to the board.m (not to the action of carving on ice.)

I've interpreted it as he's searching an easy board, vs. unforgiving board
 
#53 ·
It looked like getting your body on the ground was the main objective. So you did that first, right as you initiated the turn. And then you jammed a tight, carved turn very quickly as a means of generating force to upright yourself. This could be very handy for getting under ropes or fallen trees in the back country. That snow looks really nice!
 
#59 ·
Pretty sick video. Only thing is, need tons of space. I NEVER see runs that barren. Laughed at the part when he says it’s getting crowded. Ha. That looked empty me.
Lol, yeah, been thinking the same. Sooo wide and empty, AND perfectly groomed. I've never seen anything alike. Totally jealous. Where is this?